Guys, need some help.
My brake is turning itself off, only when the engine is running. When I turn the engine off and keep the accessory switch on, I can engage the brake for as long as I wish. But once the engine is running, the brake disengages itself, normally within 5-10 seconds. The light on the on/off switch will stay lit, like the brake is engaged. To reengage the brake, I have to turn the unit off, then on again, and the cycle will repeat.
Today was the day to eliminate all exhaust leaks from the brakes operation. I totally removed the exhaust system and welded all joints from the down pipe to the exhaust brake mating flange. Once I reinstalled the entire system, this problem was what I faced.
Any ideas. US Gear is closed for the weekend.
Thanks

 

Your control module is probably bad. Mine would stay engaged for only about one second and kick off. US Gear told me to check the white wire with a test light. If the light stays lit but the brake disengages, then try lengthen the rod at the brake by one turn. Test. Do not lengthen the rod by more than two turns. If the test light goes out when the brake disengages on its own, then your control module is no good. Unfortunately for me, the module was no good and I had to buy a new one....$143.00 plus shipping. I got it the other day and everything is good now.

BTW, I am not using the micro switch for the throttle. If you are using the micro switch, make sure that is adjusted properly or just remove it to test.

 

KOA,
Thank you for the return.
I'm heading for the shop to get the wiring schematic to see what the white wire does, and will put the multimeter on it.
What does adding one turn to the rod have to do with the brake disengaging? Don't get me wrong, I'm going to make the adjustment after verifying the white wire. I hope its not the control module, but if it is, just another sigh. The unit is brand new, but has had one problem after another:
1. Unit arrived assembled backwards; butterfly was springloaded closed.
2. The asbestos gaskets used on the front of the unit were torn.
3. The on/off switch had a bad diode and did not work.
4. Brake will not stay engaged.
I will say the company has been great in terms of support and has quickly sent me everything I've needed to fix problems, but this has been a great pain in the butt. I really hope that once its functioning its all worth it.
No, I too don't use the microswitch. The engineering didn't cover using the cruise control with an APPS system.
Headed for the garage.
Thanks

 

The white wire is the hold wire. I bought mine brand new off of ebay for $400, everything was new in the box, but the seller had bought it couple of years ago and never did install it. The warranty had already expired, so that is why I had to pay for a module. Still, it was way cheaper than I could have bought it somewhere else. They had the plug from the harness to the brake wired wrong on mine, and the schematics does not identify by color. They told me how to take the plug apart and reorientate the wiring. I don't think their QC is up to par, but like you said, support is good. The brake was easy to install and works really good. I had asked about just bypassing the module by running power direct to the hold switch (white wire). Lee at US Gear told me it would be possible but the switch draws 60 amps and I would not be able to find a 60 amp 12V toggle switch. That is true, but after I ordered the module and they had already shipped it, I was thinking I could have used a relay and toggle switch. I see 12V relays up to 200 amps. That way the toggle switch would not be taking the load. I can get a 75 amp relay for about $25.

Maybe some of the wiring experts on this forum could come up with a drawing of how it should be done properly.

 

KOA,
Thanks again, and it worked! After conducting wiring verification and running the multimeter on the "hold wire" (white),the control module is working as advertised. I disassembled the actuator rod, lengthened the turnbuckle one full turn, and reassembled. I tested the brake in action at idle for one minute, and at 2000 rpm for one minute, holds perfectly. Thanks again.
As for the wiring, here's what I've done. The red button with the flashing light is mounted on my console bezel, just to the left of the air conditioning vents on the right side. This way, I could run the wires to the switch behind the instrument cluster and keep it hidden. I actuate the brake in an on/off action using the switch; same as using a toggle, but I maintain the control module. I have also installed a rocker switch on the valance below the steering column in place of the defeat switch. This way if I'm running errands, I don't have the brake run its "two slam cycle" 10 times in one day.
I also got very frustrated with the number of exhaust leaks I had at each joint prior to the brake. I already had my Aero Turbine installed in my 4 inch stainless system and didn't want to have to redo (cut) the stainless, so I mounted the brake behind the muffler. Well.....loser idea. So, I measured, and removed the entire exhaust system and welded all of the seams coming off the down pipe (HX40 style) all the way to the input flange on the brake. It required me to remove the turbo to reinstall the downpipe, but in the long run, will be worth the extra effort, at least I hope.

 

I have a new one in the box i got a couple weeks ago but had a fire so haven't had time to get it installed (also have an air ride seat base in the box still.)
Hope to get at them this week.I talked to a few people before i got the brake system and decided to go with it instead of a jacobs. I have a Jacobs on my 01 and really like it.

 

I bought mine because it was cheap and easy to install. Did have a few problems like I mentioned earlier, but now that it is working, I really like it and it works great. I have in on my 2002 International 4300 with an Allison 2000 trans. That Allison shifts very smoothly and positively. I wish Dodge that a auto like that, then I wouldn't have bought a 6 spd.

 

i heard so much about the weak auto tranies when i got my 01 that i just bit the bullet before it had the chance to go bad and sent it out to ATS and had it built and put in their triple lock tq converter and has done a great job with no problems the 03 i got has the 6 speed just because i wanted something different and like it so far.

 

KOA and Herb,
After the test drive, the brake will hold as long as I'm under 2000 rpm. But over that, it will disengage. Tomorrow morning, I'm going to lengthen another full turn. What is the significance of NOT going more than two turns?
A question I'm going to ask Lee on monday morning is since my unit was built backwards from the factory, if there is a nominal measurement I can "reset" the unit to. Though I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel, I am feeling that I could have spent that near thousand dollars in better ways.

 

I certainly hope that it is going to be a straight forward install. I don't handle repairing errors made at the sellers end
well.

 

I don't know why, but Lee just told me do not go more than 2 turns. Monday is a holiday, hopefully they will be working, I know I am.

 

Thanks again Koa.
Yeah, working here also. Just another day.

 

Okay guys,
The second full turn has been applied at its working like a champ. Reved a downshift with a race trailer in tow to 2600 rpm and the brake held.
Finally complete. Thanks for your help KOA.

 

Got mine intoday and drove it up and down the road and seems to work ok. Haven't towed anything yet but am heading for MO and Ok next week so will give it a workout.
Air ride seat goed in tommorrow.