Finally....something that went RIGHT!!! After watching Jeff Gordon win the NASCAR race at Darlington I felt like doing something besides washing my truck. Something I could get done, something I could accomplish. Something more than a car wash but not something so great as to get flustrated (which is somewhere between flustered and frustrated....NOT a happy place! ) and want to either quit doing what I started out to do or start throwing wrenches and things. Well, I had this thing right here setting on the rear seat:

http://dfuser.com/mfg/cummins/Accessories/lighting.php

It's the 9004 Headlight Heavy Duty Wiring Harness Upgrade and what it's supposed to do is it makes it so that your low beams STAY ON when you click the high beams on, making for a very bright high beam lights, which is ideal for the long ride home on country roads after working swingshift. While you could hold the headlight dimmer switch so that both the low & the high beams stay on at the same time, your hand will undoubtedly get tired and, from what I've heard, you could also do some damage to your truck's electrical system, as it's not made for that continual load on the system for any period longer than a few seconds.
The harness itself is made out of heavy gauge wire and it's wrapped in a black plastic that protects the wires. It's plenty long enough with room to spare and more than enough to route it almost any way you wish. I found the ground wires to be a bit on the short side but that's my only complaint about the quality of the harness. It looks VERY professionally made/built and should last as long as any other wire/wiring in the truck. I should say that the finished installation looks like it was a factory job, tho that's due more to the quality build of the harness as opposed to my install job.
The installation was pretty straight forward, ONCE I GOT THE DIRECTIONS but don't look for em in the package as I guess that would be too difficult so as to include them. Instead you're directed to their website where they await in the Acrobat Reader PDF format. As I had a problem with this new computer and anything Adobe, that was difficult. But thanks to a member here (who I forget) and the company for emailing me specific directions after I complained about my lack of Acrobat's functions, I was able to at least get going and attempt the install.
Directions were EASY to understand and presented in a step by step manner. But getting extra large hands in there on the aft end of those headlights can be a cutting up experience as I have wounds to the back of both hands to prove it. I even removed the driver's side battery so as to give myself even more room but removing the battery box was going to be a bigger bear than I wanted to tangle with. So the battery came out and the box stayed in and even tho that didn't make that much more room, I finally got it, after some choice words in the English language, I'm sure!! Smaller hands sure would've been nice here!! But persistence pays off and I make the needed connections and even manage to route it like they suggest....ain't we doing great so far!!!! Basically, you disconnect the drivers side headlight and plug that connector into the harness. Same on the other side. There's a ground wire on each side for each light. There's a couple of new relays that need to be mounted (which was easy on my rig) and there's a new connection on the positive side of the battery too. Nothing real difficult. If I can do this, I'd say 95% of others can too. (or put another way, I ain't talented and this isn't hard!! ) They include a few ties but they're a bit on the small side. I like my longer blue ones but after it was all secured, hooking up the final hot connection was a piece of cake too. However, after it was all hooked up, buttoned up and my work area cleaned up, I turned on my headlights and the passenger side low beam was not working. These headlights are less than a month old Sylvania Silver Star Ultra's, so my first thoughts were of a faulty wiring harness. I unplugged that one and placed one of the old bulbs that were replaced last April 20th, less than 4 weeks ago, in the connector, turned on the headlights and BINGO that one still works. So the brand new Sylvania Silver Star Ultra's was not working on low beam. So after a quick trip back to Schuck's Auto Parts with the faulty bulb and the receipt, they gave me a new bulb. Once back home I made the switch, did the test and everything works JUST LIKE THEY ADVERTISED.
I'm looking forward to my late night drive home tomorrow evening for the ultimate test. This should be a BIG improvement over the stock headlight setup!!

 

So is their any splicing required or is it all plug and play like the site suggests?

 

No splicing at all tho I can see there may be a different choice of connectors on the hot side of the battery needed or used. But no splicing on the harness itself on my install.

 

I performed this upgrade and am very pleased! I'm even still running the stock bulbs! Chuxtruk, you mention the lows stay on with the highs? That sounds like the Brite Box to me! This harness brings full batt. voltage to the headlights. Mike

 

Awesome info guys...and the price is right. Ive seen harnesses that cost more than twice as much....I wonder if there is much difference between them??

 

Also is thier a harness to make the fog lights stay on with the high beams on? Combine that with this harness and their would be alot of light upfront.

 

To keep your fogs one when the high beams come on takes about 2 minutes to do.

I did mine about 5 years ago and they still work great. I can't remember the exact sequence but all you do is pull out the fog light relay, pop the cover off it and plug it back in. Click your high beams off and on while watching the inside of the fog light relay. This is the part I can't remember but you just put a little piece of cardboard (business card) between the contacts of the fog light relay and they will stay on when the high beams come on. And yes it does make a huge difference in light output on the road.

Like I mentioned, If I remember right, you just keep the contacts apart so the relay doesn't cycle, then put the cover back on the relay and your good to go.

Jeff

 

Jeff, Im thinking you dont have any lighting problems with your truck....


Thats the first time Ive ever heard of that trick....

 

I have had zero problems with my lighting system. I hear all kinds of horror stories about trucks with overheating switches and such.

Nothing here and I drive with my lights on (headlights and fogs) all the time every minute the truck is running. Then you add the megawatts of driving lights and the carnival attraction light set up on my trailer and you'd think I would have a melt down, nothing.

Most everything I run is setup on a relay with the exception of the headlight circuit. I have had the harness for a bit now, just haven't had a chance to hook it up.

But the relay trick on the fog relay makes a huge difference with "fill" on the light pattern out in front of your truck.

Jeff

 

If you can get any more info for me thats great. If anyone has pics that would be great. I am good at letting the smoke out of things if I go and start tearing stuff apart.

 

Now, at least around here in WA state, it's ILLEGAL for the fog lights to be on when the high beams are on. And I got that from the horses mouth so to speak as a good friend is a reserve deputy sheriff and he filled me in. When I told him that this just keeps the low beams on when the high beams are on, he said there's no problem with that. But those fog lights must go off when the highs come on, to be legal. When I asked him if he's ever written a ticket for "illegal" lighting he said no but that if there was a "problem" he'd look for anything so he could give the smart alec a ticket, "illegal" lighting included. Seems to me that if you don't shine a cop with your high beams blazing, that includes a bright fog light, you won't have any problems.

Inspired by the success of my last wire project described above, I have a couple of new lighting projects coming up (and I may even snap a few pics):

Cab marker/running lights. My last ride had a Lund MoonVisor and I really liked that look on that truck, those lights were nice. But with painting and installation, the price for one of those is spendy!! I'm not looking forward to drilling holes in the roof of my truck but the MoonVisor on my old 93 NEVER leaked and there was almost as many holes drilled for that install as these cab marker lights will call for. I got the complete 5 light kit for late model Dodge trucks made by Pacer (I wanted the amber roof lights. Not clear or smoke or red) that includes the instructions, wire, switch etc from JC Whitney for under $50.

Backup lights installed around the hitch area. The reserve sheriff has them on his new 06 and when he flips the switch to turn those on....HELLO, it's BRIGHT back there!!! As I back down my driveway every time I come home, why haven't I thought of this one before??

 

I dunno if its illegal in KY or not but I am not planning on being dumb with it and it does seem easily reversible if it is a problem

 

i bought the same mod and i love it especialy when when some one high beams you then you blast em with lows highs and fogs its great.

 

It took a bit for me to get out there and get a couple of pics of my relay, but here they are. My truck is an 02 so I don't know if this works on other years. If you want to keep your fogs on when selecting high beams, this is the mod you make. It's just a piece of a business card inserted to keep the contacts apart. I took a pic of the relay complete so you can compare and see if you use the same relay. It's a very simple mod that I have had going for 5 years now and I drive with my lights on day and night so it works just fine.

Hope it helps.

Jeff

 

Thank you for the pics, I will give this mod a try tommorow.