twins install
#1
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twins install
I started putting the twins together and hit a road block. I am using my stock hx-35 with 12cm housing for now and to get the stock waste gate to work i have to twist the bearing housing with compressor housing to get the arm to hook to the waste gate but then it doesn't look like oil ill drain from the housing because the drain is pointed toward the fender, and when I move the bearing housing to where it will drain the waste gate actuator mount on the compressor housing hits the manifold and I have seen where most PDR twins have the wast gate mounted differently with a bracket on the side of the exhaust housing, but Either iI didn't get it or something, I just need some advice
#2
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You should be able to rotate the compressor housing and the exhaust housing independent of the bearing housing.
I wanted to keep the stock wastegate on my setup but the actuator would have interfered with the outlet of my HT3B, so the wastegate got welded shut.
Chris
I wanted to keep the stock wastegate on my setup but the actuator would have interfered with the outlet of my HT3B, so the wastegate got welded shut.
Chris
#3
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You need to crimp a pair of vise grips on the snap ring to hold it partly out. You dont want to let it come out totaly, just loose. then the two sections can rotate seperatly. Mine needed some serious pounding with a mallet to break it free.
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I am able to rotate the turbine and compressor housings seperatly from the bearing housing but i can't get the bearing housing to drain staight down and still have the wastegate to actuate because of the small alightment pin in the compressor housing isn't lining up with the compressor housing were it needs to be, the actuator hits the manifold, does the bearing housing not have to drain straight down
#6
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I am no expert but when I installed my twins I remember 20 degrees on either side of straight up and down is ok, I cant figure out where I got this though? I think I read it in the HT3B paper work and I cant find that right now. Please confirm this with the experts though.
#7
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yeah, my actuator is attatched to the compressor housing, ratsun I looked in your pictures and your wastegate actuator is different from mine maybe I need another housing or something
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#8
Originally posted by 1ST GEN.
yeah, my actuator is attatched to the compressor housing, ratsun I looked in your pictures and your wastegate actuator is different from mine maybe I need another housing or something
yeah, my actuator is attatched to the compressor housing, ratsun I looked in your pictures and your wastegate actuator is different from mine maybe I need another housing or something
#9
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yeah thats what i had to do I used the housing off a 98, but I have one more question how do I get the oil drain in I tried pecking it in with a hammer but I didn't know if the O ring would break because its perty tight how did yall get it in , sorry for all the questions but I can't call Piers on the week ends
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I am also having some trouble getting the oil drain for the top turbo to work it seems that the bends in the stock drain pipe are to tight to work without kinking the short rubber hose do you have any advice on how to run the lines
#12
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With mine, the drain pipe is cut somewhere in the middle, for the HX35, and a hose connects the pieces together. I had to cut my drain for the HT3B also, and it is still tight in there.
In this pic you can see the lines coming off the turbos. The one on the HX35 is the original line, cut near the block.
In these pics you can see the drain pipes on the block side. The hose towards the right is for the HX35 (pyro probe pointing to it), and the little piece of pipe towards the left, (back of the engine) is the hose nipple for the HT3B.
Chris
In this pic you can see the lines coming off the turbos. The one on the HX35 is the original line, cut near the block.
In these pics you can see the drain pipes on the block side. The hose towards the right is for the HX35 (pyro probe pointing to it), and the little piece of pipe towards the left, (back of the engine) is the hose nipple for the HT3B.
Chris
#15
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Yes, the guy that designed my twins took the heat exchanger into account, and we only had to grind the bracket (see rusty part) a little to make it all work. He's selling the hot pipes with WG provisions. You can buy that and get your own turbos, to save money.
Chris
Chris