Twin turbo help for 2000 dodge 24 valve
#1
Twin turbo help for 2000 dodge 24 valve
Need help. I have a 2000 dodge 24valve 5 speed and only thing i done to it is put on a straight pipe. Now I been looking at twin turbo kits but the I'm probably going to get is diesel power source S475 TWIN kit cuz one they caught my eye 2nd i'll be daily driving and towing . Now I'm getting a lift pump on it, fire rings and head studs. What I have on the side to put on is a intake elbow, 3 pod gauges and edge comp tuner. Then couple months later put in 100-150 hp injectors and Valair NV4500 Dual Disc Clutch
Rated 800hp. Does everything sounds right please make sure. Oh and will be running the turbo psi around 35-40 till I get my clutch
Rated 800hp. Does everything sounds right please make sure. Oh and will be running the turbo psi around 35-40 till I get my clutch
#2
You will need to take care of the electronic side too.
If you don't do that anything above 24 psi of boost will set an overboost code and defuel, so you will have less power than stock.
I would suggest a smarty, since it reprograms the ECM and does not add an additional component that can (and wil) fail
Just my 2c
If you don't do that anything above 24 psi of boost will set an overboost code and defuel, so you will have less power than stock.
I would suggest a smarty, since it reprograms the ECM and does not add an additional component that can (and wil) fail
Just my 2c
#4
Ooopsie, I did not see the Edge Comp- yep, this will do what I said.
My main reasoning for the Smarty is that you don't have an additional piece of hardware put into the equation. The "boxes" do their work by "lying" to the stock components, and in the case of all wire tap boxes also by "brutally overriding" the electrical signals of the stock components.
My pet peeve with this is troubleshooting. I had a lot of trucks with "boxes" that came to me with a lot of different problems, mainly codes for overboost, no boost, no signal on boost sensor, shorted to ground sensor etc.
Now I always had the problem to find out whether it is the box or the sensor. In the case of a truck with twins and big injectors it is really hard to diagnose. (Remove the boost fooler that the box provides and you get an honest overboost code really quickly)
Stacking boxes and tuners usually is not a good idea unless you really know what you are doing and you are really careful. The main problem is timing.
You shall not add 2 or more devices or methods that advance timing. This would result in too much timing advance which costs you power, fuel efficiency and engine life.
My main reasoning for the Smarty is that you don't have an additional piece of hardware put into the equation. The "boxes" do their work by "lying" to the stock components, and in the case of all wire tap boxes also by "brutally overriding" the electrical signals of the stock components.
My pet peeve with this is troubleshooting. I had a lot of trucks with "boxes" that came to me with a lot of different problems, mainly codes for overboost, no boost, no signal on boost sensor, shorted to ground sensor etc.
Now I always had the problem to find out whether it is the box or the sensor. In the case of a truck with twins and big injectors it is really hard to diagnose. (Remove the boost fooler that the box provides and you get an honest overboost code really quickly)
Stacking boxes and tuners usually is not a good idea unless you really know what you are doing and you are really careful. The main problem is timing.
You shall not add 2 or more devices or methods that advance timing. This would result in too much timing advance which costs you power, fuel efficiency and engine life.
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