So, I was changing the oil on the 02 yesterday and went to pull the air cleaner off and was very unhappy to see all that black oil inside the turbo. So my question is which one? I dont know much about them all those numbers just confuse me. The only mods I have are in my sig and I tow heavy sometimes (3-5 a month). Wanted something a little bigger but not so big that I will need a LOT more fuel to spool it. I plan on some small injectors in the future but not sure when and maybe a smarty to stack on the comp. Oh, and yes I would love to do twins but money is tight right now and need to learn a lot more before I open that can.... Sorry about the long winded post. Thanks in advance for any advice. -Mike

 

I'm kinda looking at the same thing. For me, I'm looking at a HX35/40 hybrid, the HTT 64/65/13ss, or the Turbonetics 15181 (for $1500 on some sites)....

 

did some more searchin and seems a 62/65/13 may be a good choice?

 

62/65 would be good but a 62/71 would leave a little more room to grow in the future

 

I like that idea

 

is your compressor wheel hitting the comp housing? Is your afe air filter an oiled one or dry?

 

yeah it hits...... and yeah its an oiled filter. Going to get a dry filter next. I just bought the truck from my friend who is a mechanic and has taken good care of the truck but it has 163k on it with a lot of towing miles. I chalked it up as normal but do you think its due to the filter?

 

and thinking.... I'm kind of stuck with a stocker or hybrid because I dont want to lose my pac brake and dont have the cash to replace it with an inline....right?

 

with an oiled filter you have to be vary careful about the amount of oil on it, the oil will stick to the compressor housing collecting every little bit of dust causing the wheel to become out of balance, you would have to get rid of the pac brake but will do good with a hybrid

 

Sledge,

Keep in mind that you like me, are stuck in the wonderful world of CALIFORCOMMIE....

I want to do a new turbo to take advantage of the COMP (right now i am not taped) and the sticks....but with SMOG...we gotta stay as close to stock (or hidden) as possible...

I just did a smog, and the COMP was easy enough to leave in and just disconnect (wires) and hide zip tided to the firewall (my box is hidden elsewhere they dont need to look) but I did have to switch out the injectors and put the stock ones back in....

I think the best thing for us would be to go hybrid....we will be able to pass smog that way because the turbo will not look ANY different than the stock HX or HY (in my case).

For my truck a good saturday, a few weeks before my next smog (in two years) will take care of the items needing adjustment but for some with much much much more done boy I FEEL SORRY.....and from this point on KEEP ALL OF YOUR STOCK STUFF!!!!!!!!!

NCA

 

I'd encourage you to go mild on the turbo upgrade. The peak dyno hp doesn't do you all that much good in the real world.

In the real world, you need response. A quick-spooling BB charger might be a great idea if you can swing it. This will help a ton when smog time comes...

JMO

 

If you have some fabbing ability, or can afford to have a few small things done, I would consider an he351vgt from a 6.7. You get: 60mm compressor wheel, INSTANT spool for towing heavy, the ability to control drive/boost pressure with decent mods due to the VGT's ability to open up to, I believe, 23cm AND built in exhaust brake--the best of all worlds on a budget I'm emulating this--- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnHGb...eature=related ---on my 12V while it's down for a H/G. Should be able to grow to towing twins without an external 'gate as well. I can't waitfor mine to run!

 

So, I DO have to ditch the pac brake if I run a hybrid? dammit.

I see your point. Luckily I live in a county up in the hills where smog is only required upon title transfer. I'm sure the 2 year rule will pop up but who knows when... But would definately keep all stock parts on standby if I swapped any out.

I completely agree. I was looking for better useable power for towing and what not. I'm not really into drag racing(cant shift fast enough lol)
Thats a good idea but isnt the controller to run those purdy pricey? I saw the fleece performance setup and whoa!!.... I'm too poor for that. But in all honesty I don't really have the time to do 351 right now..... I think if my only option to keep my brake would be to stay with a stocker then I may have to do that. I cant afford to lose the braking power (we have some steep passes and I'll melt my brakes without it...)

edit.. could you tell me more about that set up? I have some fab skills and watching your video has got me thinking.........


Thank you for all the resposes guys I really appreciate the help

 

The youtube video is not mine, just the setup I would like to emulate. As you can see, he's just using a standard wastegate controler to move the vanes. He's got it referenced to drive pressure, so it's basically a d/p regulator and he claims that it's 1:1 or thereabouts up to 40 psi. I expect to have less than 400 clams into my setup when it's complete. My turbo has about 4600 miles on it and I scored it for 200 clams. Look up he351ve on a 12 valve over on competitiondiesel.com for a 27 page discussion on the topic

 

guys, something to think about

A PDR modified HX35, with the stock turbine, and larger compressor wheel.

I put one of these on my 01, when the seal went out on the front side. It spools like stock, pushes a higher volume of air per pound of boost, and is an all around drivable turbo. No worries about not looking stock, or time taken in setup.

I bought the cartridge w/compressor, and installed it with the exhaust housing still on the truck. I was pressed for time, and this was the easiest way. Unhook the wastegate actuator, unbolt the cartridge from the exhaust housing, installation is the reverse of removal. Pre-lube the turbo, hook up lines, fire it up.

Another place is Source Automotive. Rip has the same kind of setups, for a very similar price.

Good luck