I didnt think the triple gauge dash pod install would be too complicated, but it seems like every project I do, there are always bumps in the road.
I was planning on running the wires and tubes along the windshield to get under the dash, but my Isspro pyro has the amplifier box. The lead between the box is too short, so I have to drill the dash in order to mount the box out of sight under the dash.

I havent popped the console bezel off yet, so that may shed some light on the situation. For dash cover removal, the FSM instructs you to remove the entire instrument panel assembly form the truck...not gonna happen! So if I drill or cut a hole in the top of the dash, I expect to run into HVAC ducts. Will I be able to snake my wires/tubes around there?

Any ideas. I'm considering returing the dashtop pod, and going with the A-pillar mount

 

Dash bezel just pops off. You don't have to remove the entire dash or instrument panel.

Not sure what dash pod your using, but the Dodge Pod by Scotty might be the way to go. It require you to cut the bezel and leave the dash itself alone. All your wiring and such runs in between the heater controls and the dash top. Lot's of room to work with.

There is a pic in my gallery of the Pod. (It used to be a Rod Pod from Wildcat Diesel when they were still around)

 

You can run all kinds of stuff under there without removing the entire dash.



I pulled the dash bezel, the instrument cluster, the radio, the cubby hole, and the under dash panel to run my stuff.
No big deal, just a lot of screws.

 

Shovelhead
I like the looks of your gauge setup. Who makes the gauge pods? Do you use a fp isolater and if not what kind of line do you run to the gauge? Is there any problem with reflection in the windshield?

 

The gauge pods are Isspro (as are the gauges).
I used stainless braided teflon line straight from the filter canister to the gauge (no isolator).
I don't notice any reflection, but I have them hooked up to the dash light dimmer and I keep the lights turned about 1/2 way down.

 

How easy is it to remove the paneling surrounding the stereo? I have not tried at all yet but I was assuming it pulls off can someone confirm before I try and pull this (I have to change my head unit as the CD player has given up the ghost)

Mike

 

If it's the black bezel you're talking about, yes, it pulls off. You need to drop the tilt and put the gear lever all the way down, so that the bezel clears the steering wheel.

 

RenegadeT,

Isspro makes an extension for the amplifier box lead/cable, we have to remember to offer them when a customer is planning to mount their gauges in the overhead mount that goes above the rear view mirror on the windshiled. It's 42 inches long if memory serves and might be exactly what your after to get that amp box out of your way.

Mark @ DPPI

 

I was going to mention the extension. Do not simply cut the wires and extend them - that will result in erroneous readings.