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Tranny temp gauge

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Old 07-06-2004, 12:27 PM
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In the Pan.........for now!

Originally posted by infidel
There were several times my pan gauge read fine but the stock AT warning idiot light came on. That's when I knew it was time for a change.
But any gauge is better than none...
All:

After reading the above posts it looks like it is time to move mine from the pan to the line via NAPA. Thanks for all the good input!

John (DH)
Old 07-06-2004, 01:19 PM
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I now have temp probes in the out line (replacement dodge part is great!) and in the pan. I like seeing the difference in both. Transmissions are expensive, gauges are cheap.


Tony
Old 07-06-2004, 05:58 PM
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Originally posted by MK4288
WILL THAT LINE WORK ON A 2001 AUTO OR IS THERE ANOTHER P/N?
Yes, it will work on all years of the 47RE.

Why Dodge chose to get rid of it ($$$$ most likely) is beyond me.


phox
Old 07-06-2004, 06:13 PM
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Someone said you had to remove the flow restrictor from the new tube. Is that true?
Old 07-06-2004, 06:43 PM
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Re: Thanks guys

Originally posted by rjohnson
Since most of my off roading is fairly flat, and my towing is very light, I may be a little naive on the subject.

Curious what you consider red line for hot line temps (Phox - you obviously get uncomfortable around 250*) and if that's with synthetics?
Have read the warning light comes on at 280* Sensor is near the hot line, correct? Think that's too high?

Love this web site, never stop learning!

RJ
Here's a good chart.



disclaimer says the temps are taken in the pan though,
maybe 250 degrees in the hot line isn't really that bad?


phox
Old 07-06-2004, 07:13 PM
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Originally posted by phox_mulder


Why Dodge chose to get rid of it ($$$$ most likely) is beyond me.
They got rid of the line with port on the RE because the stock sender is inside the tranny, it still measures the highest temp though.

The check ball in the '95 line should be removed for better flow, screwdriver does it in a few seconds.
What's funny is the check ball was part of a recall on '94s &'95s. They originally came without one but too many people complained of having to wait too long after starting for the TC to fill after the truck was parked for long periods.
Old 07-07-2004, 02:44 PM
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Infidel & Phox

You guys convinced me; ordering 95 part today on way home.

Was starting to suffer withdrawal from having nothing more to do to my truck (not really, but sort of). Problem solved!

RJ
Old 07-07-2004, 04:35 PM
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I just noticed that mine is leaking.
Not a bad leak, just a drip now and then.
I have the 95 line, and it is leaking around the threads for the temp probe.
I've seen pics where it looks like they put teflon tape on the threads.

Mine has no such tape.
I didn't do the install.
Is tape the best solution? if so, any particular flavor of tape?

If I was to pull the probe, and put the tape (or paste maybe?), how much fluid would I lose while doing this?

I'm thinking not much more than a quart, just what happens to be in the cooler at the time.

I want to be prepared with the proper tape and as much fluid as I'll need before I try tackling it.


Thanx

phox
Old 07-07-2004, 06:00 PM
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phox, I don't like using Teflon tape on vehicles especially if it's something you may need to take a apart. Near impossible to remove all the tape debris without introducing some into the system. Use Permatex #2.

It seems to me more than 3 quarts comes out when you pull the probe. What I have done is have a 3/8'' pipe plug ready to plug the port when you pull the probe. You will lose very little.
Old 07-07-2004, 06:48 PM
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Would a PVC plug work?, or are they different threads?

I have a bunch of them lying around from fixing, changing, moving, then plugging the lawn sprinklers.

I was thinking not much more than a quart, as that is how much they had to replace when installing the line.


phox
Old 07-07-2004, 09:05 PM
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Mine was leaking a while back. When I pulled it, it was alot more than quart that came out! Don't remember exactly how many though?! Anyhow, use the Permatex thread sealant! It's great stuff! No leaks anymore! Actually, I just put another temp sender in the pan and when I pulled the plug on that, a whole slew of fluid came out. It was still trickling down when I threaded in the new sensor w/ the permatex on it and it sealed up instantly.


Tony
Old 07-07-2004, 11:54 PM
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Originally posted by phox_mulder
Would a PVC plug work?, or are they different threads?

Not really sure, sometimes sprinklers can have some odd threads. Sure hate for you to find out with ATF running down your arm...
Might be better to spring for a plug.
Old 07-08-2004, 11:50 AM
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I have been running with a probe in the pan and cooler line for 3 years. I bought an extra probe from Autometer and a small switch so I can use a single gauge. Pulling a huge grade in second I see 250* line temp. while the pan reading is only 125*. While I agree it is good to see the transient peak temp. in the line, IMO statements like "you will destroy the trans if the temp ever gets above 250*" are based a reading from the pan. I talked to Bill K. from DTT about this and he said with the new ATF 4+ which is mostly synthetic he does not worry about line readings that do not exceed 300*.

BTW. When I added the Double Deep Trans. Pan. I went from pegging my 250* gauge to just reaching 250* on the same grade. So the drop in transient peaks is slight with the DD pan.
Old 07-09-2004, 03:58 PM
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Dr K

Great info...Thanks. I also sp w/ Bill at DTT and he recommends reading oil temps at the oil cooler line, with the check valve removed.

Anyone interested - the 1995 oil cooler line (with gauge port) now retails for $114.00 US, unless you know someone. Will be installing it this weekend.

RJ
Old 07-19-2004, 11:43 AM
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Originally posted by Dr.Kayak
I have been running with a probe in the pan and cooler line for 3 years. I bought an extra probe from Autometer and a small switch so I can use a single gauge. Pulling a huge grade in second I see 250* line temp. while the pan reading is only 125*. While I agree it is good to see the transient peak temp. in the line, IMO statements like "you will destroy the trans if the temp ever gets above 250*" are based a reading from the pan. I talked to Bill K. from DTT about this and he said with the new ATF 4+ which is mostly synthetic he does not worry about line readings that do not exceed 300*.
I like the idea of the switch. No point in using two gauages when you can get away with one.

I can't imagine that a 250 degree gauge is a good thing to use. If it's pegged, how do you know if you are only at 275 and scraping by, or at 375 and doing damage?

It looks like ISSPRO makes a 140 - 320 and a 100 to 280 temp gauge. They even say "Trans Temp".


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