Tranny temp gauge
#16
Registered User
In the Pan.........for now!
Originally posted by infidel
There were several times my pan gauge read fine but the stock AT warning idiot light came on. That's when I knew it was time for a change.
But any gauge is better than none...
There were several times my pan gauge read fine but the stock AT warning idiot light came on. That's when I knew it was time for a change.
But any gauge is better than none...
After reading the above posts it looks like it is time to move mine from the pan to the line via NAPA. Thanks for all the good input!
John (DH)
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Flat Rock, MI
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I now have temp probes in the out line (replacement dodge part is great!) and in the pan. I like seeing the difference in both. Transmissions are expensive, gauges are cheap.
Tony
Tony
#18
Administrator
Originally posted by MK4288
WILL THAT LINE WORK ON A 2001 AUTO OR IS THERE ANOTHER P/N?
WILL THAT LINE WORK ON A 2001 AUTO OR IS THERE ANOTHER P/N?
Why Dodge chose to get rid of it ($$$$ most likely) is beyond me.
phox
#20
Administrator
Re: Thanks guys
Originally posted by rjohnson
Since most of my off roading is fairly flat, and my towing is very light, I may be a little naive on the subject.
Curious what you consider red line for hot line temps (Phox - you obviously get uncomfortable around 250*) and if that's with synthetics?
Have read the warning light comes on at 280* Sensor is near the hot line, correct? Think that's too high?
Love this web site, never stop learning!
RJ
Since most of my off roading is fairly flat, and my towing is very light, I may be a little naive on the subject.
Curious what you consider red line for hot line temps (Phox - you obviously get uncomfortable around 250*) and if that's with synthetics?
Have read the warning light comes on at 280* Sensor is near the hot line, correct? Think that's too high?
Love this web site, never stop learning!
RJ
disclaimer says the temps are taken in the pan though,
maybe 250 degrees in the hot line isn't really that bad?
phox
#21
Registered User
Originally posted by phox_mulder
Why Dodge chose to get rid of it ($$$$ most likely) is beyond me.
Why Dodge chose to get rid of it ($$$$ most likely) is beyond me.
The check ball in the '95 line should be removed for better flow, screwdriver does it in a few seconds.
What's funny is the check ball was part of a recall on '94s &'95s. They originally came without one but too many people complained of having to wait too long after starting for the TC to fill after the truck was parked for long periods.
#22
Registered User
Infidel & Phox
You guys convinced me; ordering 95 part today on way home.
Was starting to suffer withdrawal from having nothing more to do to my truck (not really, but sort of). Problem solved!
RJ
Was starting to suffer withdrawal from having nothing more to do to my truck (not really, but sort of). Problem solved!
RJ
#23
Administrator
I just noticed that mine is leaking.
Not a bad leak, just a drip now and then.
I have the 95 line, and it is leaking around the threads for the temp probe.
I've seen pics where it looks like they put teflon tape on the threads.
Mine has no such tape.
I didn't do the install.
Is tape the best solution? if so, any particular flavor of tape?
If I was to pull the probe, and put the tape (or paste maybe?), how much fluid would I lose while doing this?
I'm thinking not much more than a quart, just what happens to be in the cooler at the time.
I want to be prepared with the proper tape and as much fluid as I'll need before I try tackling it.
Thanx
phox
Not a bad leak, just a drip now and then.
I have the 95 line, and it is leaking around the threads for the temp probe.
I've seen pics where it looks like they put teflon tape on the threads.
Mine has no such tape.
I didn't do the install.
Is tape the best solution? if so, any particular flavor of tape?
If I was to pull the probe, and put the tape (or paste maybe?), how much fluid would I lose while doing this?
I'm thinking not much more than a quart, just what happens to be in the cooler at the time.
I want to be prepared with the proper tape and as much fluid as I'll need before I try tackling it.
Thanx
phox
#24
Registered User
phox, I don't like using Teflon tape on vehicles especially if it's something you may need to take a apart. Near impossible to remove all the tape debris without introducing some into the system. Use Permatex #2.
It seems to me more than 3 quarts comes out when you pull the probe. What I have done is have a 3/8'' pipe plug ready to plug the port when you pull the probe. You will lose very little.
It seems to me more than 3 quarts comes out when you pull the probe. What I have done is have a 3/8'' pipe plug ready to plug the port when you pull the probe. You will lose very little.
#25
Administrator
Would a PVC plug work?, or are they different threads?
I have a bunch of them lying around from fixing, changing, moving, then plugging the lawn sprinklers.
I was thinking not much more than a quart, as that is how much they had to replace when installing the line.
phox
I have a bunch of them lying around from fixing, changing, moving, then plugging the lawn sprinklers.
I was thinking not much more than a quart, as that is how much they had to replace when installing the line.
phox
#26
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Mine was leaking a while back. When I pulled it, it was alot more than quart that came out! Don't remember exactly how many though?! Anyhow, use the Permatex thread sealant! It's great stuff! No leaks anymore! Actually, I just put another temp sender in the pan and when I pulled the plug on that, a whole slew of fluid came out. It was still trickling down when I threaded in the new sensor w/ the permatex on it and it sealed up instantly.
Tony
Tony
#27
Registered User
Originally posted by phox_mulder
Would a PVC plug work?, or are they different threads?
Would a PVC plug work?, or are they different threads?
Might be better to spring for a plug.
#28
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Cameron Park CA
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I have been running with a probe in the pan and cooler line for 3 years. I bought an extra probe from Autometer and a small switch so I can use a single gauge. Pulling a huge grade in second I see 250* line temp. while the pan reading is only 125*. While I agree it is good to see the transient peak temp. in the line, IMO statements like "you will destroy the trans if the temp ever gets above 250*" are based a reading from the pan. I talked to Bill K. from DTT about this and he said with the new ATF 4+ which is mostly synthetic he does not worry about line readings that do not exceed 300*.
BTW. When I added the Double Deep Trans. Pan. I went from pegging my 250* gauge to just reaching 250* on the same grade. So the drop in transient peaks is slight with the DD pan.
BTW. When I added the Double Deep Trans. Pan. I went from pegging my 250* gauge to just reaching 250* on the same grade. So the drop in transient peaks is slight with the DD pan.
#29
Registered User
Dr K
Great info...Thanks. I also sp w/ Bill at DTT and he recommends reading oil temps at the oil cooler line, with the check valve removed.
Anyone interested - the 1995 oil cooler line (with gauge port) now retails for $114.00 US, unless you know someone. Will be installing it this weekend.
RJ
Anyone interested - the 1995 oil cooler line (with gauge port) now retails for $114.00 US, unless you know someone. Will be installing it this weekend.
RJ
#30
Registered User
Originally posted by Dr.Kayak
I have been running with a probe in the pan and cooler line for 3 years. I bought an extra probe from Autometer and a small switch so I can use a single gauge. Pulling a huge grade in second I see 250* line temp. while the pan reading is only 125*. While I agree it is good to see the transient peak temp. in the line, IMO statements like "you will destroy the trans if the temp ever gets above 250*" are based a reading from the pan. I talked to Bill K. from DTT about this and he said with the new ATF 4+ which is mostly synthetic he does not worry about line readings that do not exceed 300*.
I have been running with a probe in the pan and cooler line for 3 years. I bought an extra probe from Autometer and a small switch so I can use a single gauge. Pulling a huge grade in second I see 250* line temp. while the pan reading is only 125*. While I agree it is good to see the transient peak temp. in the line, IMO statements like "you will destroy the trans if the temp ever gets above 250*" are based a reading from the pan. I talked to Bill K. from DTT about this and he said with the new ATF 4+ which is mostly synthetic he does not worry about line readings that do not exceed 300*.
I can't imagine that a 250 degree gauge is a good thing to use. If it's pegged, how do you know if you are only at 275 and scraping by, or at 375 and doing damage?
It looks like ISSPRO makes a 140 - 320 and a 100 to 280 temp gauge. They even say "Trans Temp".