Well Here we are again. Now that the lift pump is fixed for a while I hope let's talk about traction. I Now have lots more power I think.....It was raining yesterday and I just tried to get across the intersection a bit faster and the whole rear end started jumping around. I've had this happen before and much worse with a 4000 # trailer. Obviously I just need to be a bit more careful with the diesel pedal when it is wet. I finally had time to look at the rear suspension a bit. A link type bar with urathane bushings would be ok but getting the geometry right so there is no binding will take some work. Being an engineer I can work this out on my cad system. I looked around but there doesn't seem to be much said about this situation. There was one site mentioned but I couldn't even get it to come up. The hotrod style "slapper bars" would be a quick and pretty easy system to make. They do have a U bolt around the spring so it will work on deceleration too and with a snubber they won't have metal to metal contact. I had my son do a video of this and it is just as I thought...the spring winds up just like any leaf springs just not as much as some of the cars do.

Years ago in the 70's my boss busted a couple leafs pulling his trailer out of a snowbank because of this. (454 chev crew cab 4 spd.) We never made t bars but back then we thought about it.

any comments??
bentwings

 

There are some folks doing traction bars or ladder bars. I think I read of some problems with the point where the momentum is introduced to the frame. (cracks etc). I got rid of my axle wrap and hop by retightening the u-bolts on the springs and using harder bushings on the rear shocks.

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM

 

I've had a set of Caltrac bars for some time now and I have yet to have an issue. www.calvertracing.com

Jim

 

There are companys making a traction shock setup. I had a set on a 4x4 Cheby. The setup is simple. It involves an offset mount on the axle and the shock attaches from it to the frame at about a 75* angle. This is supposed to stop wheel hop. My kit came from Dick Cepek, a respectable name in suspension. Hope this helps.

 

I can't remember where I saw it, but someone built some awesome traction bars with a 4link setup in the back. If someone could find the link I would appreciate it. I saw it only about a week ago, and I think it was over on the TDR, but I can't find it now. I think that the pickup was a '97.

 

it is on the tdr in the competition forum (thread is truck pulling video). i'm pretty sure that is the one. hope this helps.

 

what exactly to traction bars do...........where are they installed?

 

Jim ... can you post a couple pics of them?


Thanks

 

I got 50 bucks into my traction bars. They are just two bars. All I did was take two top links cut them in half and weldd a 4' section of thick walled 2.5" pipe between them. works good so far. will be hooking to a sled this weekend and will see how much better they perform.
DM01

 

A PULL? WHERE? brandon.

 

I will get some mroe inffo and shoot you a PM.
DM01

 

Jim,
I'm interested in learning more about your setup. Does it make the ride any better? I guess you have not had any problems like Steve St. Laurent, with the frame cracking?
Do you have any pics of them, and how they are mounted?

Thanks,
Chris

 

I've updated my pics. You can see my traction bars there.

Doug

 

Bentwings:
I have "slapper bars " I'm making that weld or bolt to the bottom of the U bolt bracket. They go from the center of the axle to the front spring mount. There is about 1/2 inch adjusted from the top of the snubber to the spring loop. Normal driving never touches. As soon as power is applied, the snubber binds on the axle loop and end of axle wrap. The truck that won in Bowling Green saturday had mine on it. I have 2 other drag trucks with them on. It really locks the rear in place. That darn neoprene snubber is the costliest part.

..Preston..

 

Turbo thom,
This is what I was thinking about. Probably not the prettiest things but very functional. This type of bar will do away with the geometry problem entirely. You must be and old drag racer. I would guess some 3/16 wall tube about 2 inches square maybe 2x3 if you are really yanking hard. You also need a connection over the spring for operation in reverse. A husky flat u bolt comes to mind.
Any husky suspension snubber would work as long as it has a stud or provision for a bolt mounting.
Thanks

bentwings