stevenl

where is a better spot to put them wld brakets directly to the axel or to the bottom of the spring perches?

Bluedually4x4

I have seen them in both places. Probably depends on the person doing the welding, the plate that the U bolts go to is much cheaper to replace if you burn a hole in it than an axle tube

stevenl

haha thats true but i trust myself wlding on it so it should be alright. but how thick is the axle tube

Yellow Yota

You realize that the tube on a 70 or 80 is like 3/8 inch or better, right?

Not saying you can't blow through, but if you do, you have absolutely no business with a lead in your hand.

If you don't get your bars set up right, they'll limit rear suspension movement.

For the amount of movement we normally see in our trucks, I always use bushings instead of high dollar joints. They won't limit trave or articulation enough to make it worth buying spendy ones, they'll run quiet and soft, they'll last darn near forever, and they're easy to come by.

stevenl

besides angle and figuring out where to mount the bracketry what do i need to consider? and what length should i go for?

Bluedually4x4

Hadn't thought about using bushings lol. That would make sense, because you are right, the dually has very little articulation.
About burning through, I guess that's all the TV I watch. They really want you to perform short welds and let them cool before welding more.

OldDodgeOwner

I haven't made it to Wheatland yet to see what Brown's has. Our road's been closed all week, just got it opened up today. I've got to run to Torrington next week to pick up a load of feed, I'll try to stop by and see what they've got on the way through.

Fergavs

Just be carefull where you clamp the ground lead on your diff. Make sure that the current doesnt have to travel through any area where there are bearings. Even a slight arc inside your bearings can damage them. I always try to put my ground clamp right near where I'm welding. Basically keep the clamp some where on the axle tube to stay away from the bearings in the center section and the ones on the ends of the axels. (full float diff)

Bluedually4x4

I found some here in town Olddodge. Not monster units, 3/4 tractor 3 point hitch units.

Need95-00CTD

Don't use tractor joints, they'll get dirt or dust in them and be shot in months. You want decent rod ends look to QA1. They are BY FAR one of the best rod ends out there for trucks/off-road.

Bluedually4x4

Except if they are made for a tractor it would be expected to get dirt in them... so I am a bit lost. Its a traction bar, it does not need 44 degrees of misalignment so why spend the extra money on them. If they do break or wear out early I will probably just switch to bushings.