diesel_kid

What do these Torque Plates do exactly. Would it hurt my gas mileage or mess up my tranny?

machineshopchar

I have A 1995 with a automatic it has improved my fuel milage and has not yet hurt my tranney. I pull a 13000# Fifth wheel camper.

Forrest

There's a pic on my gallery of a #4 & a stock plate. You can see the difference. Do a search, there is a lot of great explanations out there.

diesel_kid

Alright thanks for the info. With my truck I am aiming for gas mileage and for the truck to run cool and easy while still adding a bit power.
If I want my eyeballs in the back of my head I will hop on the CR

Lil Dog

I gotta say, the #10 plate is the ticket.

I just installed a PDR #10 plate and PDR AFC spring kit and whoa, what a difference. I had the stock plate slid and tinkered with the AFC adjustment but I really missed the low end torque I had in my earlier 93.

After the plate installed just at the stock position, LOADS of power in the mid range but nothing stupid with the temps. I can mash the throttle and not worry about the EGT as even yesterday with A/C and a hot day (well for here anyway) I couldn't get the needle over 1200°F on a long pull going way too fast.

I have to suggest the 10 plate as from what I have researched the 11 plate fully forward does what this 10 does in the stock position. The 10 plate pulls back on the fuel on the top end of the RPM range which is good for us stocker turbo dudes.

J-eh

Captain

what exactly does the afc spring kit accomplish? Dosent it just reduce the amount of smoke but dosent really do anything for you power wise? I've always wonderd

Lil Dog

The main problem, with the 215 pumps especially, is that the AFC spring is sooo stiff that you have to make huge amounts of boost to fully move the AFC cam. I found this when I moved the stock plate and not the AFC that untill I made over 15 psi I didn't get any change in power, that is the AFC was holding me off of the fuel plate. I think you need almost 30 psi to fully move the AFC cam with the stock spring. The spring is soo stiff that you don't utilize the full travel of the AFC, so for plates (like the 10) that have large movement of the rack, the AFC would never get out of the way enought to engage in the fuel plate.

With AFC spring kit, the softer springs allow you to use the full trave of the AFC cam to hold back the heavy fueling at low boost but give way sooner so you can start to move toward your fuel plate at lower boost levels, IE the Kick in the pants factor.

Its hard to explain without showing the parts and having them in your hand.

What I like the most is that I don't have this huge cloud of smoke when I start out in 2nd at the lights. But as soon as I hit 3rd gear and mash it, boom at about 1500 its lites out and you are movin. When I had the stock plate and AFC at the FFWD spot, just letting out the clutch and getting going was an environmental disaster with really nothing to show for it.

J-eh

Forrest

I did that ... accelerating in 5th on a hill, a few cars ahead of the Hwy Patrol. I got a good finger shaking out of that one.

Jim Fulmer

The spring is soo stiff that you don't utilize the full travel of the AFC, so for plates (like the 10) that have large movement of the rack, the AFC would never get out of the way enought to engage in the fuel plate.

If any of you guys want to check this out and have some type of compressed air (shop air) buy a regulator with a gauge and connect it to the AFC then pressurize it and watch the arm as you turn the air up, you can adjust this to some degree with the star wheel so the arm will bottom out at a givin' boost, you can even get the wheel so tight the arm will never move more than half way.

Yes the 215's have the real stiff spring but it can be made to work in curtain applications.

It's a 12V it needs to be tuned!


Jim

Captain

so if you have the wheel all the way forword do the springs offer any advantage? And if there is an advantage is there any reason why someone would never want to put the new springs in?

Lil Dog

Well, if you have twins and Jims truck you could compress a box-car spring. But for those of us under 100 psi of boost, the stock spring (as tested and noted in my kit by PDR) needs at least 34 Psi for full travel with the star wheel bottomed out. With the HX 35 and a stock housing, thats near red line for the turbo.

As it is now I have the AFC Tuned (thanks MDKRam ) for what I wanted and learned alot in the process. The AFC wheel is bottomed out with the new spring. I have found alot of similarities to what I did with the VE pumps on my older rigs.

If you are at the lower end of the food chain as myself, the AFC spring kit keeps the smoke levels civil and the fun factor in. IMHO...

J-eh