I have an 01 4x4 quad cab diesel with an auto. I have an edge comp box on it and up until recently I have had no problems with slippage. I don't pull alot with my truck, (4place snowmobile trailer and 14' gooseneck with 1600 gal water tank occationally) When I am pulling a light load and I am in overdrive, It will occationally slip . My rpms are about 1550 when I am running 63 mph. It will also slip with no load and I am in OD when I get on it to pass another vehicle. SHould I be using OD when pulling? I know if I take my edge box off, It will not slip. But I like the power and milage it gets when its on. What can I do to the tranny to remedy this problem without having to remove my edge box? What aftermarket parts are good? THinking of going with BD performance. Also, with the box on it, it will not slip If I shift out of OD , I am assuming its because my rpms are higher(2200) therefore there is more trans pressure. Please help! Truck has 88500 miles on original tranny.

 

It sounds like your ineed of a new beefier tranny. Once they start slipping that means the clutch materials have seen more heat then they can handle, and the material starts to break down thus more and more slipping. You can do the cheap fix and do a valve body and new tcc, but the rest of the tranny will still have weak parts and could fail you at any time. I would call one of the big builders and talk with them and get there opinion. DTT , Georend bros. , Sun Coast , ATS. You can search and get there sites or go into the links page and get them. I sliped my tranny a few times then put in a full built one, and you wont believe the difference. Its the best mod you can do to an auto truck. Good luck.
Rob

 

The cheapest thing you can do, and it's only a band-aid, is turn up the line pressure in the tranny. This will help, but to varying degrees, depending on your exact situation. I turned up my 96 and the TC slipped a little. I put a better VB in there, with the line pressure maxed out, and the TC is awful slow to lock up, but it holds once it is fully locked. I'm saving for a TC now.
You could buy a 48RE VB and get even more line pressure out of it than a 47RE is capable of.


Chris

 

I am pretty sure that my torque converter is slipping and not my tranny. How do I tell for sure. It won't slip until Rpms drop to around 1550 or so. Is my best bet to price a new built tranny? Don't want to spend the money if there is really nothing wrong with this one. Any help is appreciated.

 

The way to tell if the TC is slipping, as best I can tell, is to watch it when it locks up and see if the RPMS drop to whjere it is supposed to be at that speed, or when giving it more power while locked up, see if the RPMs go up at a faster rate than the MPH. Keep in mind that once you increase the throttle a certain amount (I'm not sure what measurement determines it) the PCM will unlock the TC anyway. You can avoid this if you have a TC controller or lock-up switch.
The difference between this and tranny slippage, I'm not sure, accept maybe you would feel some shudder if it were the tranny, and you'd feel the shudder even when the TC is not locked up, if the tranny is slipping, 3rd gear, etc.

Chris

 

1st double check that ur slipping period and ur not just going in and out of lock-up..drive it without the comp and without a load...if the thing just goes up and down in rpms while in OD on the inerstate then u have an APPS issue just like the TPS in the earlier trucks....u should start saving for a good tranny either way cause the power u can get cheaply out of these trucks is wayy too much for the trannies

 

Get a valve body from Stefan at DTT. It held 371 hp great (comp and 40hp injectors) and right now it's holding an EZ with 100+hp injectors.

 

Yea it probaly is your T/C that is slipping, but when it slips it is burning and heating up all the clutches and bands inside the transmission.

Just to let you know my transmission didnt last long at all once I could slip my t/c.

 

Thanks for the info guys! I am looking at BD transmissions but they are $3000. Is there another good brand that isn't quite as pricey? I want some thing good, and I know you get what you pay for, but I'd like to get the best price I can on a really decent tranny. Just want to be able to pull without worrying about the tranny holding up.

 

I have been told by a Chrysler tech that coincidentaly they are JUST like the 727s inside. If so they are easy to rebuild *VERY* easy. I have done MANY 727s. The od is a seperate unit installed on the trans tail. ANyhow Im going to do it myself as I have the same issue TO MUCH POWER dawgs... Thoughts anyone??

 

check your PM's

 

www.gbtransmissions.com . Talk to Dave. He will set you up right for a great price. I think close to $2500 for a full tranny. 100k miles warranty on his tranny, and single disc converter, and if you get the triple disc, the converter has a lifetime warranty. Give him a call.

If i were you though; I would just get a VB from somewhere like big blue suggested. Your tranny should be fine; and i think the VB would make the converter hold.

Eric

 

When you say it slips, is it revving up before actually moving in o.d? If this is true, your torque converter lockup clutch is burnt out. You will now need to upgrade your tranny properly, with one of the big tranny builders, as any thing done otherwise now, is just a temporary "band aid" solution IMO.

Because of the contamination in system now, it will need to be flushed out, install new hp torque, vb, updated hp bands and other internal parts, then you'll be able to tow with no worries or problems.

 

WHen I say that it slips, I mean that when I am In OD and go to pass a car and I have no load on the truck, If I really get on the accelerator , it feels like I am hitting little patches of Ice and the wheels are breaking loose and grabbing. It feels like it slips and grabs , slips and grabs until I back off the throttle a little bit. When I have a trailer on and am in OD, If I pull up a hill and It gets lugged down to 1550 rpms , It will slip and grab a little bit until I back of the throttle.It doesn't bother when I am pulling down a flat highway. It will not slip if I take my edge comp box off.

 

......described a lock up clutch that is not holding to a "T". When you remove your convertor you'll find the prettiest blue/purple ring around the front of it from all the heat it generated while frying.......and by the way I'm in the same boat you are. I'm going to be shopping around for parts. I have a whole 47re in the garage that I'm going to overhaul. I know I need a convertor, but I'm still wondering if a "kit" in the stock valve body will suffice. I've overhauled a few 727s and 46/47 RE's. I just haven't found alot of info online on what mods can be or need to be done as far as changing fluid flow etc...