I don't have near the hp you guys are pumping out but, I do have a BD single disc converter. Got it in 97 when BD was popular. About 170,000
miles on it and it works great. I don't beat my truck but when I tow I get on it. The TH weighs about 10,500 lbs. If I have to do it again, it would be Goerend.

 

Keep in mind that this is a triple disk unit, non-billet turbine disk, LOW STALL unit. I would keep looking myself, at least for a higher stall unit and a billet turbine disk. I would also buy a larger/fat shaft unit, just so you don't break it. but then again we VP guys have difficulties making more than 1400ft*lbs

 

1st would be a VB that didn't come fully assembled even though it past A "quality check". Then the VB has internal problems engaging all forward gears causing clutch material to b stripped. I had to replace all the forward clutches.
2nd would be a converter that IMO doesn't do much better than stock.
Do some reading on the forums and you'll find more disappointment than not.

 

honestly Im afraid of single clutch converters now, having stripped out this one. That DTT was a good unit back 10 years ago. low RPM and low fluid pressures didnt help keep it alive for sure.
This was an expensive job the first time, I sure wasnt planning on doing it twice =(
Mike, why the preference for high stall? Mines a daily driver and fuel is getting more expensive so I opted for low stall. Seems to play well with the 4.10's though.

 

I love my low stall for towing, certainly beats my higher stall stock converter all to hell. Only issue is when it gets cold you have to push on the brakes a little harder than normal (or slip into nuetral) at intersections till the oil warms up.

 

The low stall converter I had built is tighter than the low stall that came in the truck when I bought it. I wish it was a lower stall yet. I don't think I could stand a stock stall or high stall. I don't understand the high stall theory on a low rpm diesel!? Only benefit I can see is for racing when the thing revs out to 5 grand....

 

Thanks for all the replies. I'm looking into ways of getting the extra cash for the goerend. I've read to many posts about people having failures with the cheaper converters. A couple of you questioned whether the converter is the problem. All I can tell you is I 've lost power and lockup. I have a derale deep pan with a drain plug so I drained the oil to check for material and it was clean so I've still been driving it around town. The guy at the trans shop said he did flow tests , jumped solenoids and found everything internally working fine. Truck still shifts firm. Thinking about selling the 35s and going back to 285s. I'd probably have fewer problems. It d be hard to go back but I want it to be a reliable tow rig.

 

I went withw a billet single 1600 stall and the truck came alive. I have pulled 10500 last summer and I`

 

I don`t know why every body wants a tripple disk if you don`t have the HP and torque to cause a problem. My single disk billet I got works great. I`am looking now for a valve body upgrade and do a rebuild with new clutches. the 95 has 278000 km on it now ,but pulls great. my single disk billet TC is good to 500 hp so the guys that built it told me,And I have papaer to back that up for 3 years. Later Don T

 

+1 on the Goerend - love my whole trans. Blew through my torque converter at 100k - never looked back. Installed the Goerend and she's been flawless ever since. Many of my friends went less expensive routes and have since done more and more work on them. Lesson learned - do it right the 1st time or you're just wasting money.

 

Hey Sea Drive,
I won't dispute the quality of Goerend's products, but doing it right the first time doesn't have to mean spending top dollar on a top of the line converter.

 

I really liked my DTT super single. Held really well up to 464 hp 996 tq, then the rest of the trans fell apart around it and the shop that put it in wouldn't even return my calls. I then chose to go local. First had a stock stall triple disk but it was too tight and would kill the truck when shifted into gear and everything was cold. After a month of that I had em swap it for a low stall triple and it's been treating me good so far. Next dyno should see 525 and 1100 tq since the compounds and made me 0.6 faster in the 1/4.

My first trans cost 7100 and lasted 2 years and 464 hp. I was told it'd hold to 600 easy. So just cause it's expensive, doesn't mean it's the best. Keep researching and saving. Gor sounds like the best to me.

 

I've had two converters. A DTT 89% single [ole blue] and Suncaost 44 series triple.

The DTT held just fine with upwards of 80psi, locked shifts, boosted launches, and towing a 40ft gooseneck. But a friend of mine really needed to upgrade his truck's stock auto so I sold it and the VB to him.

Then I got the Suncoast 44. Locks a little hard and holds the same with no problem. Both, at least in my truck flash stall to about 1250rpm.

Out of the two I liked the DTT fluid coupling feel just a little more, but they don't sell those blue ones anymore so I can't speak for the newer stuff. The 44 isn't that far behind and the lockup is SOLID with the Garmon valve body.

-Dustin-

 

The old DTT single disc was a nice converter for street use. But the single disc is a little weak for the cummins. Mine lasted about 60k and the lockup started to cause a violent shake at 55 or so when it locked.
it shed debris in the trans so I needed another rebuild.. went with another DTT and a 4disc lifetime warranty converter but its a billet one and feels different. I sent it back to get a tighter converter.

 

Way easier to spool bigger turbos with a higher stall converter than a low stall. I must have run four or five different converters in my 02 truck. The best stall is the 1700-1800 rpm stall unit. Low stall units are a waste of money, they just cause your truck to smoke, push the brakes hard. Once you drove a properely set-up truck you'll understand. The right converter will allow the truck build boost faster. I have run a few BD, TCS, DTT converters over the years.