I have been thinking about getting a new / stouter torque converter so I can do further bombing on my truck. So I searched E-Bay and saw this converter. It says its guarenteed to hold "better than 600+hp" What do you guys think? Not a bad price either?

 

I guess the ebay link would be helpful eh?

Torque Converter

 

It is not for a diesel. Our torque will eat it up.

 

Also not a lock up clutch style converter

 

Give one of the guys a call that works on CTD's all the time. Do it right the last time.

 

Do you have to put it together yourself?
It doesn't even have a billet front end. you can get a TCI HD from JEGS with the billet front cover for the same price. I will probably get one soon myself.
scotte

 

I agree 100% When my tranny took a dump I told the guy who was rebuilding it that I want it beefed up because I was planning on adding some power. He said he was using a heavy duty converter. It may have been but with the mods in my sig. it is slipping and I am now in the market for a true heavy duty converter. I should have known better when the price of the rebuild was only a little more than a good converter costs.

 

I shouldn't even bring it up, because this question is beat to death everytime, so I will just read past posts about which one to choose. Anyways, do you guys think I'd be alright to buy a Goerend TC and put it in? I think Eric did that (cumminsdriver365) Can I put one in without having the truck on a lift?

 

I feel dumb; you PM'd me, and I forgot all about it and never PM'd you back PM sent. Also, forgot in the PM; I put my converter in by myself without the truck on a lift. It would help if you could get the truck off the ground enough for you to sit up underneath it, but it can easily be done without it(also put my buddies clutch in with no lift). One thing I wouldnt do it without is a transmission Jack. It makes it Soooo much easier in lining it all back up, and taking it out/putting it in. I have heard some crossmembers can be fussy, but mine was really easy to get out and in. Other than that; there really is nothing special needed. PM me if you need anything else, and I wont forget this time.

Eric

 

did you pull both together? i mean tranny & T-case.
Anything to look out for that might cause problems?
thanks

 

No. I pulled the T-Case, and then the tranny. Its really not a hard job at all to get the T-Case out. I pulled mine before I took the crossmember out, and had no problems. The tranny weighs enough by itself, so I figured I would pull and install them seperate. One thing that aggrovated me was the tranny lines; but mine are in pretty bad shape anyway's. The T-Case has a 4 line vaccum hose plug on it. Just pull that off; along with another little plug I think;Undo the linkage from the floor shifter, take off the 6 nuts, and it will slide right out of the tranny. A TC install really isnt all that hard. it just takes time, and turning wrenches . Plus you can say you did it yourself when you are done Dont take this as a hate on people that had them installed by someone else either, because I am lucky to have the tool's, and shop that I have for working on my truck in. It makes a big difference.

Eric

 

Well no one has said it yet, so I'll probably be ripping the top off the proverbial can of worms..... but here it is:

An automatic transmission is a hydraulic system. A system in general is made up components that rely on each other and work together to provide the desired result. Now that being said, simply swapping one part isn't going to necessarily make it a better transmission. If you put a bad boy super duper torque convertor in the tranny but do nothing to address the line pressure, you can't expect the TC to function properly. Valve body mods can up the line pressure to help with clamping force on the bands, clutches, and TC lock up. But, if the hydraulic circuit is plagued with internal leaks, much of the increased line pressure is lost before it can do any good. There are also a couple mods that can be done to a couple of the parts to increase their mechanical advantage to aid in clamping force.

Think of it like you would the engine. You can't just add more fuel to get more power. You have to also open up the intake so it can breathe better, modify or swap turbos if you need still more air, and you have to open up the exhaust to eliminate that choke point. You just can't throw one of those component at it..... you have to address the WHOLE system. The automatic tranny is no different.

Rant off.........

 

While you are right for the most part; MANY, MANY on here have ran just a TC/VB combo and had really good results with their stock tranny. No it wont last as long as a professionally built full auto , but it can really make a very big difference in the stock one without dropping $3k +. I swapped my TC. It made a HUGE differnce in the stall speed, but I still need a full VB for the TC clutch to hold it good. That is next on my list. The shift kit helped a lot, but I still need more line pressure. Dave Goerend told me that our tranny operates at about 250psi in reverse already, and that the seals should be able to take the extra pressure unless I already have a bad leak or other problems, in which he said it would go out shortly anyway. His VB runs about 180psi is what he told me. He said I am probably around 130psi right now; so I need the extra pressure a full VB will get me. Not saying you are wrong, but you can put a TC, and VB in a tranny and really help it out for a long time.

Eric