Time for tricked out rear suspension...
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Time for tricked out rear suspension...
Ok guys, I decided that I can't deal with the harsh ride of my truck anymore. It has 3/4 ton springs + add-a-leafs = STIFF RIDE I have been driving around a Cadillac Escalade for a few weeks and man I tell ya...I get in my truck and it's like YUK! Soooo rough. I know its not a fair comparison but I also need another inch and a half of lift to run the new 38x15.50x20 tires I got. The 37's fit well now but the extra width will require more lift. I already have 2" blocks + the stock blocks so more block is a no-go for sure. I looked at lift springs but they are usually pretty stiff too and if I don't go 3/4 ton springs, I lose the payload. I do tow with this truck. So I tought about doing a load airbag assist or something with 1/2 ton lift springs but the lift springs are $$$$$ and the bags are another $$ or so. So thats about 700.00. Thats not even considering what my truck might do to 1/2 ton springs as far as spring wrap from TQ. I figured that was too much to spend considering for that I could 4 link and bag the rear and it would work and ride a lot better not to mention eliminate any chance of axle wrap.
Here is the plan. I am going to start with some LARGE Rubicon Express bushings and also Large Rubicon Express Super Flex Joints. Add some 1 1/2 .250 wall DOM and end up with some nice upper and lower control arms. Getting some link mounts from Poly Performance for the frame and axle. I'm going to use 1 1/2 DOM to build a new drop cage for some airbag and shock mounts. Mount a 5 gallon stainless steel tank and compressor under the bed and a controller in the engine compartment (don't want cab clutter).
It will have 4 control arms and a track bar. The bags will be 2600# Firestones, Bilstein shocks, and all DOM and Rubicon Express components. The suspension linkage will basically be a copy of the long arm set up that I did in the front. I think it will give me the best of all worlds and I plan to document it all here so others can possibly benefit from it. I should end up with the ride height I want, the ability to carry weight in the bed, tow as good as it does now, have no axle wrap, and most importantly, feel soft on the road unloaded. I will also add the stock rear sway bar as my truck doesn't have one on it.
Any input throughout this endeavor is welcome...
Let the games begin!
Here is the plan. I am going to start with some LARGE Rubicon Express bushings and also Large Rubicon Express Super Flex Joints. Add some 1 1/2 .250 wall DOM and end up with some nice upper and lower control arms. Getting some link mounts from Poly Performance for the frame and axle. I'm going to use 1 1/2 DOM to build a new drop cage for some airbag and shock mounts. Mount a 5 gallon stainless steel tank and compressor under the bed and a controller in the engine compartment (don't want cab clutter).
It will have 4 control arms and a track bar. The bags will be 2600# Firestones, Bilstein shocks, and all DOM and Rubicon Express components. The suspension linkage will basically be a copy of the long arm set up that I did in the front. I think it will give me the best of all worlds and I plan to document it all here so others can possibly benefit from it. I should end up with the ride height I want, the ability to carry weight in the bed, tow as good as it does now, have no axle wrap, and most importantly, feel soft on the road unloaded. I will also add the stock rear sway bar as my truck doesn't have one on it.
Any input throughout this endeavor is welcome...
Let the games begin!
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This is exactly what I would like to do, instead of just airbag assisted, I want to replace the entire rear setup with an airbag setup, I was looking at building something similar to Primary Airs setup. It isnt a four link though.
-Jared
-Jared
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Are you using a 4 link calculator to figure your angles? If they're not right, the truck will do squirrelly things when you step on either pedal hard. Mounting points and angle will have a profound effect on anti squat.
Your panhard bar will need to be as close to horizontal as you can get it at ride height, otherwise it'll push your axle from side to side as the suspension cycles. This is fine at the front of the truck, because the wheels turn, but the rear is a different story. If the back end squats under load the truck will crab. Depending on how the panhard rod is configured and how much the axle shifts, there is a possibility of doing weird things to the thrust alignment.
Not to throw a wet blanket on your 4 link party here, but this has been discussed and debated ad nauseum on another site. Most of us have come to the conclusion that unless you want attachment points hanging several inches below the frame, you'll have to move the fuel tank.
We're actually playing with some designs for running a 2 link system with coils....
Your panhard bar will need to be as close to horizontal as you can get it at ride height, otherwise it'll push your axle from side to side as the suspension cycles. This is fine at the front of the truck, because the wheels turn, but the rear is a different story. If the back end squats under load the truck will crab. Depending on how the panhard rod is configured and how much the axle shifts, there is a possibility of doing weird things to the thrust alignment.
Not to throw a wet blanket on your 4 link party here, but this has been discussed and debated ad nauseum on another site. Most of us have come to the conclusion that unless you want attachment points hanging several inches below the frame, you'll have to move the fuel tank.
We're actually playing with some designs for running a 2 link system with coils....
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Thanks for the reply Cowhand. Yes, i am going to use a link calculator. I also plan to get advice and a little guidance from another site I frequent. I have been down this road before with other vehicles, just time to do my truck. I do know about the panhard bar and I am going to build a drop mount off the frame for it but hug the axle as much as I can with it. Shouldn't be much of an issue and this truck never sees off-road other than a few dirt roads or snow here and there.
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Originally Posted by ASTAR
Thanks for the reply Cowhand. Yes, i am going to use a link calculator. I also plan to get advice and a little guidance from another site I frequent. I have been down this road before with other vehicles, just time to do my truck. I do know about the panhard bar and I am going to build a drop mount off the frame for it but hug the axle as much as I can with it. Shouldn't be much of an issue and this truck never sees off-road other than a few dirt roads or snow here and there.
Are you doing some kind of subframe for the CA mounts?
#9
You mean something like this
http://www.bigbaddodge.com/Suspension.html
http://www.bigbaddodge.com/Suspension.html
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Originally Posted by Cowhand
The other site you refer to is probably the same one I'm talking about...ps?
Are you doing some kind of subframe for the CA mounts?
Are you doing some kind of subframe for the CA mounts?
I don't plan to do a crossmember for the links as they will attatch to the frame with no triangulation.
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Originally Posted by JDGnut
You mean something like this
http://www.bigbaddodge.com/Suspension.html
http://www.bigbaddodge.com/Suspension.html
#12
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I think you're nuts!
my 3/4 ton rides perfect, granted I don't have add-a-leafs, but c'mon man, it is a truck after all, it ain't gonna ride like a caddy, it should ride better if it's a LWB truck.
my 3/4 ton rides perfect, granted I don't have add-a-leafs, but c'mon man, it is a truck after all, it ain't gonna ride like a caddy, it should ride better if it's a LWB truck.
#13
Originally Posted by Stamey
Has anyone tried the "Velvet Ride" leaf spring modification? I have heard it helps.
http://www.drivetrain.com/velvetride.html
Chris
http://www.drivetrain.com/velvetride.html
Chris
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Originally Posted by ASTAR
Actually its p4x4 but I'm posting on ps also
I don't plan to do a crossmember for the links as they will attatch to the frame with no triangulation.
I don't plan to do a crossmember for the links as they will attatch to the frame with no triangulation.
You might look at going outside the frame for the uppers (like the front OEM upper CA mounts) and triangulate the lowers from the frame toward the diff...I don't know if you can get that magic 40* to eliminate the panhard bar, but it's worth running through your calculator.
I thought I heard hawaiiluvr was doing something like that....
#15
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Originally Posted by need12v
granted I don't have add-a-leafs, but c'mon man