Topper

You won"t regret doing it right!
Topper

S.Dodge

I'm just in the middle of deciding what to do to my tranny to hold the edge juice and today on the way home from work it started shifting weird, i can hold it steady on the highway at about 90 to 100 km and it will start to shift up and down not really rough but it seems like it is droping down a gear and then back up. Even in town at a steady 50 or 60 km/h it will do it anybody know what this could be?

Timberman

Any idea what kind of $$$ we're talkin for this rebuild? I'm interested in getting that done vs. a whole new tranny, just kinda planning things out. I spoke with Dave on the phone once last year, really nice guy. I'll go with his stuff when I blow my tranny.

cumminsdriver635

From what I can gather, my tranny has 80k miles or so on it. I have a trango shift kit, and Goerends triple disc converter, and I love it. I will probably upgrade to a full Goerend VB later down the road. The thing is; Dave will warranty his stuff pretty much no matter what. I had his single disc at first which is $650. He told me on the phone that it may slip at lower rpm's, or with heavy loads, and it did. He said it would be much better with his VB than the transgo, so I planned on doing that(his VB is $450); but it ended up not costing me but $100 more to go with his triple disc instead(I got the LIFETIME warrantied converter which is $1200) because he gave me the FULL $650 worth of credit off the single disc into the triple disc. The triple disc wont slip any no matter what; even with the transgo's lower line pressure than what his VB would put out. Like I said. I got the $1200 converter that is warrantied no matter what happens to it. He also sells the 100k warrantied triple disc for $1050 as mentioned. I cant usually get Dave by email either, but usually if you call, you can get him on the phone. He is very busy, as he told my buddy a few days ago, that one of his helpers had gotten injured, and he was having to do his work too, so Dave is a busy man. I am in the process of installing my buddies tranny right now with a Goerend triple, VB, and Billet apply lever(which I also put in mine to handle the higher line pressures of a full VB), and will hopefully have it back in tomorrow, or at least by Thursday. Cant wait to see how it does. He will be hauling his 1066 IH with it a lot, so we will see how the rest of the tranny holds up. IMO, Dave cant really be beat, but I also feel like DTT, and Suncoast have good products. Good luck whichever route you go.Anything is better than stock

Eric

berner

I'm happy with my DTT TC. The lock-up could be a little crisper but it may be due to the fact that I have a shift kit instead of a full DTT VB. A VB is next on the mod list.

I had an emergency tranny rebuild situation and ended up getting it rebuilt stock with another lesser known TC and the shift kit. I had the DTT installed later. Hindsight always being 20 20, I should have went full DTT from the start. It would have been about the same money taking into account paying for labour to swap the converter.

12valve

so is it possible to go ONLY with a VB and TC? or is it a NO NO,,, still trying to decide which truck to bomb, the auto or the manual...

Abbynormal

I would say it depends on the miles and age of the tranny. if your talking about the '95 model in your signature, I just think it makes sense to save up enough while you are in there to at least do a master rebuild kit. I feel like Goerend said when he told me while in there to also go ahead with the spider gear, the bearings and other misc items. He even reccommended putting a new input shaft/hub . I know it frustrates me some too cause I want to just GET IT DONE , so I can go on to the fun part of bombing but I'd probably regret down the road not doing it right.

JD730

I've priced this out already and with Dave's 3disc converter it should be between $2000 and $2500 for all the parts to rebuild it. But you have to figure most of the cost is in the converter and valvebody. BTW $2000 to $2500 should buy you all the parts you need to do the same sort of rebuild from any of the trans vendors.

I put a 3 disc converter, valvebody and 1-2 lever in mine a couple of weeks ago. I should have done it when I had to trans rebuild the first time. Never again will I waste time and money on junk.

AlpineRAM

Well my opinion on this is that if you want to stay locked up as much as possible you will benefit from a multi disc TC- but if you are like me and love extremely good fluid coupling with good torque multiplication you will only need a single disk but will definitely need to build the tranny because you will put a lot of torque into it at low rpm.
I think that reading this on the DTT site is worth while and explains why you should do it right:
http://www.dieseltrans.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=136

HTH

AlpineRAM

oldmandan-1

I will comment for DTT. I did a TC, VB, master rebuild, etc., everything but billet shafts, (which now I wish i would have also done!!). Tranny does a great job!! I had some electrical problems after initial rebuild, and Bill was great in leading me step-by-step to cure the problems. I called him several times and if he wasn't available immediately (which he usually is) he would always call me back in a few minutes. Can't say enough about the customer service after the sale for DTT, they are great!!!
With the DTT, your truck will just hook and go. I love mine!!

12valve

why do you regret not haven goin with the billet shafts? how does it work now, that would work different with it...

what was the cost of you tranny mods?

AlpineRAM

The stock shafts will only stand this much abuse- for example boost launches. With the better TC from DTT and the better torque holding capacity of the internal clutches due to the mods with enough hp and enough abuse you can break the stock shafts. That's the reason why you would want to go billet. If you want to have a quick street truck with reasonable hp and you know how to handle the monster reasonably the stock shafts are good to quite high hp levels, but you will be limited in your use of the power. With the billet shafts you wil break different parts when you go too crazy. (transfer cases, driveshafts, axles, passengers necks )

AlpineRAM

oldmandan-1

[QUOTE=12valve]why do you regret not haven goin with the billet shafts? how does it work now, that would work different with it...

AlpineRAM said it good:
"The stock shafts will only stand this much abuse- for example boost launches. With the better TC from DTT and the better torque holding capacity of the internal clutches due to the mods with enough hp and enough abuse you can break the stock shafts. That's the reason why you would want to go billet. If you want to have a quick street truck with reasonable hp and you know how to handle the monster reasonably the stock shafts are good to quite high hp levels, but you will be limited in your use of the power. With the billet shafts you wil break different parts when you go too crazy. (transfer cases, driveshafts, axles, passengers necks )"

Since my truck runs so good now, I took it to the drag strip a few weeks ago and am afraid to launch over about 5lbs of boost in fear of breaking the stock shafts. 1/4 mile times would be much better with a good ole 20lb boost launch!!

Everyday driving is great though.

12valve

what is the max boost you can/could launch with, b4 anything breaks (w/o billet)?
cant i just go billet, once something breaks? or what are the downsides of that?


---

also what is the cheapest way to go (the really esencial parts) ??
or do i need the whole DTT tranny fur just under $4k ??

Tiger Rag

From what I understand you should keep it under 10psi for stock shafts. If you do this enough racing, you will break shaft at some point. You can go that way, but you'll have to take the trans out twice whether you are paying someone to do it or doing it yourself. Either way, it won't be much fun doing it twice.