To those with a 12 valve and an SPS 62 or 64
03-08-2007, 02:15 PM
#46
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If I was to get a new head with 60lb springs and orings then have it ported Im assuming this would move the power up top and make it cool better but have less low end power.
I like the idea of cooling more on top but personally I need the low end for daily driving. Im trying to make 500hp so thats going to be difficult without twins. Maybe water/meth?
I like the idea of cooling more on top but personally I need the low end for daily driving. Im trying to make 500hp so thats going to be difficult without twins. Maybe water/meth?
Remember...a little less "low end" is still a lot more than a gasser. It should actually improve by flowing a little better all around, and getting more air into the cylinders
500hp isn't difficult with a single...but it can be with certain singles! There are benefits and tradeoffs with any change you make! Water/meth defiantly would help EGT's though!
Chris
03-08-2007, 08:13 PM
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Great thread here. I saw a lot of talk about surge issues with an auto, what about with a manual? I have done few mods to my truck and the next mod will be a turbo and some injectors. I obviously want the most power possible while maintaining some medium towing ability. I doubt I will ever tow any trailer weighing in at over 15K. I have been looking at a 62/14 hoping this would be a good setup. I have a pdr reground cam so maybe that would help with my egt's and spoolup and surge issues possibly. Anyway great info, please keep it coming.
03-08-2007, 08:47 PM
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the great thing about a manual is you can always downshift... you can downshift w/ an auto, but most auto drivers aren't prepared for that.
you shouldn't have any problems w/ a 64 or smaller especially if you're at lowere altitudes
ahh, I just saw you've got a cam... no worries IMO
I HIGHLY recomend a 4k GSK to any 12v owner... keep it under 3500rpm, and you'll be fine... get the valve springs, and you're in real business
you shouldn't have any problems w/ a 64 or smaller especially if you're at lowere altitudes
ahh, I just saw you've got a cam... no worries IMO
I HIGHLY recomend a 4k GSK to any 12v owner... keep it under 3500rpm, and you'll be fine... get the valve springs, and you're in real business
03-08-2007, 08:48 PM
#49
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also, that front plug isn't going to do much till you mod the AFC... BUT, we've pretty much come to the conclusion that the front plug isn't necessary on a 215 pump... it's diminishing returns on a 215
03-08-2007, 09:27 PM
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03-08-2007, 11:39 PM
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A new cam ground out of a blank from a few places would proably be around $700, I have gotten a few quotes to do P&P on my head and they range from $500-$700. And on the plug it limits the total rack travel of your pump, it's right behind the timing cover on the front of the pump and looks like a very thin bolt and is hollow on the inside. On a "gold" plug, AKA as the Mack plug the head is deeper to allow the rack to travel farther. Some people have said that the extended plug will hurt power on a 215 pump. I also think Jim Fulmer said that the stock plug will allow 15mm of rack travel and a Mack will allow 18mm.
03-09-2007, 12:34 AM
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03-09-2007, 06:53 AM
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I think this has been a great thread
And yeah Chris, anyone who has ran through 12 different chargers should have an idea of how they act
You know. Now it seems like everyone hates an HX40, but it used to be the thing to have. Are they pretty reliable if you keep them at 40psi of boost or less, and try not to bark them? I know there are better things out there, but I could get a 40 a heck of a lot cheaper than most things. What size is the compressor on a 40?
Eric
And yeah Chris, anyone who has ran through 12 different chargers should have an idea of how they act You know. Now it seems like everyone hates an HX40, but it used to be the thing to have. Are they pretty reliable if you keep them at 40psi of boost or less, and try not to bark them? I know there are better things out there, but I could get a 40 a heck of a lot cheaper than most things. What size is the compressor on a 40?
Eric
03-09-2007, 07:32 AM
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on the smaller pumps, the plug is beneficial... on the 215 pumps, it just = heat and smoke. gunracer1 can attest to that.
but the AFC mods are a must!
if you're a mile high, I would just do the 62 and hit it w/ some water.
but the AFC mods are a must!
if you're a mile high, I would just do the 62 and hit it w/ some water.
03-09-2007, 08:27 AM
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B1
Super B
BD Twins
HX40/B2 Twins
35/40 Hybrid
HX40-16
Edge BB Jammer
Garrett Stage 2 BB
S300 (62/12)
Garrett GT4088R
If you count stock that's 11, so I was a little off! I hope I only have 1, maybe 2 more to try. A GT4508R as a big charger, and I might upgrade my GT4088R to a GT4094R!
I think this has been a great thread And yeah Chris, anyone who has ran through 12 different chargers should have an idea of how they act
You know. Now it seems like everyone hates an HX40, but it used to be the thing to have. Are they pretty reliable if you keep them at 40psi of boost or less, and try not to bark them? I know there are better things out there, but I could get a 40 a heck of a lot cheaper than most things. What size is the compressor on a 40?
Eric
And yeah Chris, anyone who has ran through 12 different chargers should have an idea of how they act You know. Now it seems like everyone hates an HX40, but it used to be the thing to have. Are they pretty reliable if you keep them at 40psi of boost or less, and try not to bark them? I know there are better things out there, but I could get a 40 a heck of a lot cheaper than most things. What size is the compressor on a 40?
Eric
Chris
03-09-2007, 11:03 PM
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And on the plug it limits the total rack travel of your pump, it's right behind the timing cover on the front of the pump and looks like a very thin bolt and is hollow on the inside. On a "gold" plug, AKA as the Mack plug the head is deeper to allow the rack to travel farther. Some people have said that the extended plug will hurt power on a 215 pump. I also think Jim Fulmer said that the stock plug will allow 15mm of rack travel and a Mack will allow 18mm.
03-10-2007, 07:41 AM
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The twins were nice...they drove nice, cooled good, and I didn't have all the troubles some people do when running them...boost leaks, boots popping off, etc!
Basically, I took off the BD twins because I went bigger...I took off the HX40/B2 twins because I was turning my truck back down. It was too much power to stick someone else in it and tell them to go get a load with it, which is what would happen sometimes.
I like the way a big single runs if you are just daily driving it, but they suck on a 12v that tows...at least they do with my driving style. Twins just make driving with high HP easy, IMHO!
BTW, twins will be built sometime before the year is out for the 98
Chris
Basically, I took off the BD twins because I went bigger...I took off the HX40/B2 twins because I was turning my truck back down. It was too much power to stick someone else in it and tell them to go get a load with it, which is what would happen sometimes.
I like the way a big single runs if you are just daily driving it, but they suck on a 12v that tows...at least they do with my driving style. Twins just make driving with high HP easy, IMHO!
BTW, twins will be built sometime before the year is out for the 98
Chris