BigBlue

Alright. I've gone through 2 lift pumps, 1 Holley Black (which might still be good), and now a PE pump that may or may not be dying. And I still can't keep a good, solid pressure number. What's the deal? Can't the aftermarket figure something out? I know the FASS system looks promising, but how's it holding up to the demands of the higher HP numbers (450+). Mine pumps died with nothing more than an EZ on them. Can't someone design a pump from ground up that is designed to work on a diesel and is designed to work at high horsepower levels. Forgive me for saying this, but how hard would it be to put a ford pump on a dodge? I know that what I just said was taboo, but I have never heard of a ford fuel pump failing. What is david lott running for a fuel pump? Sorry for like this but I just had to get this out. I'm very curious as to find a once and for all solution to our fuel pump problem. Why did Dodge have to do away with the P-pump.

Dieseldude4x4

Send Timinva a PM.
He just installed the FASS.

Dr. Evil

I hear ya...this is the worst part of these trucks by far.....from what Ive read the FASS system is supposed to be quite good not sure how well they work at the higher H.P. levels.

You could always find a 12V and dial it up to 500 H.P. with no problems....or do a p-pump conversion.....

Dieseldude4x4

Timinva is well over 500 HP so it there must be something to it for sure to feed that.

DPP is advertising it right here on the site too.

KATOOM

Sorry to hear about your frustration and not to make it worse but havent you heard all the hype about the small restrictive fuel lines from the LP to the VP? Changing those lines to 3/8" or 1/2 (depending on HP levels) have shown great life and fuel pressure increases using the stock LP! Call ROD at Wildcat Diesel and have him tell you about all the testing thats been going on. Good luck.

BigBlue

I've got -8an line from the tank to the injection pump, so the line is not a problem. I'm gonna get my Holley Black working again and use it as spare.

Haulin_in_Dixie

You can have hose fights with the FASS. They are built for much larger engines.

Dr. Evil

haulin, how do you like the FASS so far??? have you put many miles on with it?? what kind of fuel pressure are you seeing??

AlpineRAM

I'm using a holley blue, 10mm rubber lines from the tank to the blue and from the pump to the filter. From the filter to the VP44 I use a part of the Wildcat max flow system.
17psi idle- 15-16 WOT with my mods. (As long as I keep my fuel filter clean)
I had to change the spring of the pressure relief valve in the holley blue, and had to deburr the plunger. Now, about 100 000kms (more than 60k miles) later still no problem.
On my stock LP the checkball had been hammered out of its seat. I thought that by relocating the pump to the frame rail and adding a long portion of 10mm rubber line I'd reduce the pulsations that affect the LP, seems that this theory has something to it. I wouldn't use too hard lines from a frame-rail mounted pump to the filter since there would be less dampening of pressure spikes. The braided steel line from the fuel filter to the VP isn't that critical since IMHO the pulsations won't harm the filter, but might be able to cause problems with a rubber line in the long run.
Something else to be considered is the switching of the lift pump- any stronger than stock I suggest to use either a relay or a solid state switching DC amplifier. (Which still gives the duty cycle control of the stock programming to reduce hard starting problems due to high fuel pressure)
Just my 2c

AlpineRAM

csutton7

I have 2.5 years on my system, but you need to punch a hole in the bottom of the tank--are you willing????-runs 17-18 at idle and normal driving and falls to 15psi for a short sec at initial WOT-chris

John_P

BigBlue:

I also had the PE 4200 system on my 2002 and have
had alot of problems with it.

I am now running a similar system to what "AlpineRAM"
is running although I am using the Holley Red Fuel Pump.
Several of our friends down here with Dodge CTD's are
running either the Holley Blue or Red and so far, I know
of no failures with them! I have the Holley Red Pump
"pushing" fuel to the stock lift pump with -8 line all the
way from the fuel tank to the VP-44. With the Holley
Red my fuel pressure gauge is "pegged" at idle and
under WOT has never gotten below "9". As you can
see, "Alpine" has higher pressure than me as the
Holley Blue is rated at 147 GPH where the red is rated
at around 90GPH.

Good luck!

----------
John_P

HOHN

Chris, care to post a link to pics and/or articles of your pimped-out Aeromotive setup?

The aeromotive pumps are about the strongest you can find. But they don't make any of their serious pumps "small" enough for the CTD. The A1000 that Chris is using will push a LOT of fuel at 45psi!

That means a lot of pressure regulation and plumbing. But the system works and works well.

I few years ago I proposed the Aeromotive pump as a possible LP alternative on TDR and was told the the PE pumps were even better as I was pooh-poohed.

Well, guess which one is holding up and which one isn't?

The aeromotive pumps are a proven quantity in all kinds of racing.

If you're willing to punch the tank (because the A1000 uses -10AN plumbing and will starve from the stock pickup), the A1000 will move anough fuel to DROWN your pump-- even with Mach 99 injectors and a stupid pump.

Justin
Any hiccups with your setup Chris?

csutton7

only hiccup was me not changing one of the fuel filters--I have two--a Racor at the engine and an Aeromotive pre-pump filter---now I started this system for testing to see what would give up first and that meant I wasn't going to service anything---guess what went first--the Aeromotive pre-pump filter clogged after two years(well it was like 20 days shy of two years)--yes you're reading right I didn't change a fuel filter for two years and I still haven't changed the Racor filter--my pressure has been the same since day one, except when the Aeromotive filter clogged---will I change the Racor filter --yes and it will be soon, but I think no one can claim that long between filters along with my longevity--I would suggest that you change them out once a year to play it safe though and I will from now on--chris

csutton7

Chris Sutton’s(csutton7) gravity fed fuel system from March 2000


I believe I drilled a 13/16” hole (predrilled with smaller bits first)-mostly by hand to not tear up the tank—it wants to peel off in big chunks so I spun the bit in the drill by hand and took it real slow—cutting the big chunks off with a razor blade(a hole saw would probably work better-I undersized the hole slightly to keep everything very tight for the bulhead fitting)

-10 AN 90* bulkhead cut down(on the tank side as it sticks up to high) with 2 poly washers and one nut—I also chamfered the bulk head fitting after cutting it down in height--

You will need to make a sheet metal washer for the outside of the bulkhead so that it won’t pull up into the tank—use a good thread sealant—I used Teflon in a tube

After the bulkhead I used a –10 AN 90* coupler

-10AN shutoff valve(makes changing fuel pumps a breeze)
-10AN 90* hose end---hose and a straight –10AN hose end

Aeromotive 12301 in-line filter(has –10 ports) you need the fittings for both sides of the filter

Two –10 AN straight hose ends and short hose to go between filter and pump or a –10 AN coupling

Aeromotive pump A1000 p/#11101 and fittings for both sides( I reduced the outlet side to –08AN) I fabbed a mount out a pc of angle and bolted it to the frame just in front of the tank

-08AN straight end from pump for hose to filter and the appropriate fitting to filter(most likely a 90* -08AN, but check it out first)

Depending on what filter you use, you will need the appropriate fittings for the filter—you can buy weber carb(12mmx1.5) to –08AN from a few places now if you use your stock filter—I used a RACOR unit that had plugs for WIF/heater(I think Earl’s or Aeroquip now have them also)—you can buy a filter head from Jegs or Summit and use a different spin on filter it you want—you will probably have to fab a mount for the filter head if you change it out--

Out of the filter I used a –08AN inline fuel pressure adapter(they have different ones so pick the one you need and ends or couplings to make it work)

-08AN staight hose end with pc of hose and another –08AN straight hose end into the AEROMOTIVE bypass regulator p/#13301—you will need 3 of the pipe to AN fitting adapters( I think it was 3/8” pipe to –08AN, but check with your supplier)(also some plugs, 3 I think—again check with your supplier)

You will need some hose with a –08AN straight end and a 90* end to go from regulator to VP44 and another 12mmx1.5 weber carb adapter to –08AN fitting

Out of the regulator you will need another pipe to AN adapter and a 90* hose end (could be different depending where you put the regulator(mine is by the battery)

You then can run the hose back to the tank and tap into where you want with a bulk head fitting or tap into the overflow tank fill tube(3/4” rubber hose) I cut the hose intalled a tee and used a straight –08AN hose end

Good luck—this should get you very close to all you need—hose length will depend on your truck I think I used 25-30 feet of hose for supply and return Quad Cab long bed---

Remember to block off your OEM supply

I used a 30amp relay triggered off the OEM lift pump wire to supply power to the pump—

Chris Sutton-

Dr. Evil

Interesting......thanks Chris