Ok check list.. I tapped the correct wire, Took out the relay and replaced it with the jumper, used a basic on/off 20 amp toggle with only 2 leads.
It might be my ground, but I ground the switch to the same exact place you did.

As for the trans, the only parts that are 48re is the intermediate and output shaft. everything else is DTT. Since none of it is 47re I thought id put 48 in the sig. But it is a DTT valve body made for a 47. So I should be good there too.

I didnt get a chance to really look it over close today but I will tomorrow for sure. Im jealous! I want mine to work!

 

Repeat!.... Test at 70+ mph in OD. If rpm's drop back to idle when you back off throttle... not working. If rpm's stay up, and come down only as you slow down.... switch is working.

No, no specific speed required for it to work, but I never use it in town so I don't know what it 'should' feel like there??

RJ

 

Well heck. Ill try it on the freeway.
I tested it around town cause of how RAM2500 has been towing with it locked in 2nd, and id have to be going slow enough to stay in second to try that.
Ill jump on the freeway today and see what I find. Post in a few.

 

I flip my switch the second I hit 2nd gear. About 1 second later you feel it lock in 2nd gear, shift to 3rd lock etc.

I would look at your wire tap on the or/b wire. You should get some voltage from that wire. I don't know if it's 12v or 2v but there was power enough to power the light on my first swich.

 

Did the freeway test today... Nothing happened. Still ran the same as if it wasnt there.

I think it must be my splice. Thats the only thing left. Work has been crazy but hopefully Ill have time to pull the air box out and check tomorrow.

On a differant note, Did or have you guys thrown any codes from your switch?
I check for codes once a month or so and popped two up today... PCU p1765- Trans 12 volt supply relay control circuit. Would that be from pulling my relay from the fuse box?

Also ECU p1693- DTC detected in ECM or PCM.. Wondering if that has something to do with my switch also.

I alwayse see 1693 code after turning on my RAD but it goes away after 6 or 7 key cycles and I havent turned my RAD on in weeks since race season is over.
You guys know what DTC is? Or if either has to do with the lock up switch?

 

Just saw your other post and I am now throwing many codes.

PCU
622
743
500
1765
1693
ECU
1693
234

Curious on the 33ohm resistor. Truck drives fine but today I did kinda goofed up with the lockup switch. I was in 4th locked and hit the OD off button, not remembering I was in lockup. Hit the off button and the truck wouldn't go into 3rd gear, I was slowing so I hit the OD button again, turned the switch ON and then off, hit the od off button and all was normal. I'm sure some of my codes were from that.

The trans never bogged as I was still doing 40+ mph.

 

I wouldn't remove the air box. Just remove, marking 1 2 3, the wire looms before removing. My center plug was white in color. With all 3 loose I had plenty of room to work with the wire.

Good luck and still interested in the codes.

 

Hey didnt think about that, Thatd sure make it easier, I hate takin off the intake.

Lets hope we get some info on the codes.. Its drivin me nuts!

 

UPDATE.. Found my problem of why the switch wasnt working.. quick splice didnt cut through the wire all the way so it wasnt doing anything at all.
Reslpiced the wire, Got the resistor put in, soldered and heat shrinked, put everything back together and now with the stock relay back in place everything is working just like its supposed too.
And on top of that, NO CODES!
Thanks guys for the info. Yet another mod done with a little help from my DTR friends.
Ian

 

So did you get a 33ohm resistor on the ground leg or just leave the relay in place, no jumper wire?

Inquiring minds with codes want to know

 

The resister goes on the ground leg, leave the relay in place no jumper required

 

Yes exactly.
Ive read that you can change things depending on where you put the resistor, But mine is just like said, in ground leg, relay in, no jumper relay.. No codes

 

What wattage resistor do I need? I went to get the resistor yesterday and they have it in 1/8w, 1/4w, 1/2w, 1w, and 2watt. Does it matter what size?

Thanks
Cory

 

See Post #19............. 33 ohm resistor.

RJ

 

Ya i am talking about 33 ohm resistors, they come in all different wattage's, which is where im confused as to which one I need.