Tapping High Mileage VP44
#1
Tapping High Mileage VP44
Whats the experience out there with people that have Tapped the
wire on their VP44 for the first time, with at least 100,000 miles.More
likely to fail with high miles or the same"hit or miss" failure chance ?
wire on their VP44 for the first time, with at least 100,000 miles.More
likely to fail with high miles or the same"hit or miss" failure chance ?
#6
I bought my truck a few years ago with 89K on it, pump was already tapped. As far as I know it's the original injection pump and I've got 120K on it now. I'm not too worried about it.
The injection pump on these is a known problem, but I don't think it's quite as big of an issue as a lot of people think. Just my opinion...
The injection pump on these is a known problem, but I don't think it's quite as big of an issue as a lot of people think. Just my opinion...
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#9
it could last 150k+ miles like mentioned above, or it could be like mine, and a new pump could quit in under 10k miles.
its really a crap shot. it may be a coinsidence, but i havnt had to replace a pump (havnt even had it in the shop really) since i detuned. I'm now setting at a comfortable ~280-300 hp running only a smarty. When i was at 530 hp, i was consistanly working on the stupid thing. had it in the shop every weekend, weather it be a transmission, clutch, turbo, rear end, injectors, box, drive shaft, yoke, u joint, o rings, yadda yadda yadda. Not your everyday wear items were breaking, it was the expensive stuff that costs a good chunk of change to replace.
I've been detuned for about a year now and all i've had to do to it was change the oil
its really a crap shot. it may be a coinsidence, but i havnt had to replace a pump (havnt even had it in the shop really) since i detuned. I'm now setting at a comfortable ~280-300 hp running only a smarty. When i was at 530 hp, i was consistanly working on the stupid thing. had it in the shop every weekend, weather it be a transmission, clutch, turbo, rear end, injectors, box, drive shaft, yoke, u joint, o rings, yadda yadda yadda. Not your everyday wear items were breaking, it was the expensive stuff that costs a good chunk of change to replace.
I've been detuned for about a year now and all i've had to do to it was change the oil
#10
I've been at 499 for a year now and all that I had to do was upgrade my clutch because it would slip alittle in top gear at the race track.
I do not turn up the power daily driving and really only go to PL 8,9,10 at the track.
Daily driving, I run around with just injectors and Adrenaline on PL2, enough to make 38 psi boost and about 350-400 HP. That's more than enough to spin the tires in lower gears which to me is the most HP you can practically use in a street legal traction limited setting.
The key to my cheap build's longevity is not beating on it but once in a while and letting it come up to temp before making much HP.
I do not turn up the power daily driving and really only go to PL 8,9,10 at the track.
Daily driving, I run around with just injectors and Adrenaline on PL2, enough to make 38 psi boost and about 350-400 HP. That's more than enough to spin the tires in lower gears which to me is the most HP you can practically use in a street legal traction limited setting.
The key to my cheap build's longevity is not beating on it but once in a while and letting it come up to temp before making much HP.
#11
Do you have a FP gauge & upgraded lift pump? If so, tap away. If not, get them before you tap it.
#12
I've been at 499 for a year now and all that I had to do was upgrade my clutch because it would slip alittle in top gear at the race track.
I do not turn up the power daily driving and really only go to PL 8,9,10 at the track.
Daily driving, I run around with just injectors and Adrenaline on PL2, enough to make 38 psi boost and about 350-400 HP. That's more than enough to spin the tires in lower gears which to me is the most HP you can practically use in a street legal traction limited setting.
The key to my cheap build's longevity is not beating on it but once in a while and letting it come up to temp before making much HP.
I do not turn up the power daily driving and really only go to PL 8,9,10 at the track.
Daily driving, I run around with just injectors and Adrenaline on PL2, enough to make 38 psi boost and about 350-400 HP. That's more than enough to spin the tires in lower gears which to me is the most HP you can practically use in a street legal traction limited setting.
The key to my cheap build's longevity is not beating on it but once in a while and letting it come up to temp before making much HP.
I can see that. I would just usually run around with my smarty programmed on 9 and my m6's. i'd have my tst off. however she would still get with it. and being a dually with a ~1500 pound bed i got a whole lot of traction of dry asphalt.
But i guess where i got in trouble was i was actually trying to use my truck. and about 450 was the least hp i could make, and when you try to pull a big load of hay (22 bales @ 1000 apiece plus an 8000 lbs trailer) that weighs 30k lbs, the crap hits the fan.
If i had a 2500 diesel that i could just play with on the weekends, then yeah i'd have her hopped up. but about 350 hp is all your going to make reliable in a work truck. I guess thats what i was trying to say.
#13
Depends on what you're doing with the truck. If you tow heavy and have lots of hills, I would go down in power some as your coolant system can only handle around 350 to 400 rwhp. If you just tow semi-often, you could go up to 450 to 500rwhp with no issues. Just change your tranny oil. If your drive stick, you might even be able to handle more. I ran 680rwhp for 100000 miles, with no issues, towed, ran her hard and had fun. Everybody has different luck, some good, sometimes no.
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