Bsplyr500

Is there anyone out there that can explain how to get the breakoff screw out and still be able to reuse it? i've been trying since last night to get it out without breaking it. If i have to break it, where can i get a replacement for it.

Bsplyr500

Just a thought, but would a hand impact work well?

TxDiesel007

What works best

you can go ahead and use a left hand drill bit, or as I did, use a good screwdriver, a 3/8 one will work just fine, a good hammer, and some vise grips.

Go ahead and pound the screwdriver into the head of the breakoff screw and go ahead and make a slot in it. Force will be your friend in this manner, as rotational force of the wrist is usually weaker than straight out leverage, i would suggest getting the vice grips, gripping the screwdriver and pull the screwdriver while holding it down to the screw to break that puppy loose..

If that dont help, the left hand drill bit will do the trick..

Hope this helps

Rick

Bsplyr500

that sounds like it would work, but how hard is it to use the vice grips with all the fuel lines where they're at? I could've had the thing out a long time ago if the fuel lines weren't where they are. They are definitely in the way.

While i'm here, this may be a dumb question, i really don't know. But what is the KDP i keep reading about? I see it in all kinds of posts, i've searched it, but i still can't figure out what it is.

gmctd

I made a small chisel out of a 1/4" allen hex key, used that to peck the screw loose.

Cummins and Dodge sell the standard bolts like the other three, for wise replacement

JSX

Just drill the head off, way easier. Once the head is off, remove the afc and there will be plenty of screw sticking out to grab, should turn out no problem. I ran mine with 3 screws for awhile, got new allen head screws at the hardware store.

Rattlerattle

Chisel and a hammer has worked well for me in the past. Postion the chisel on an angle and strike in a left hand direction. Replace all 4 screws with matching allen head screws.

smoke_pedal

if you are talking about the tamper proof screw, pound a torx bit into the hole. I think the instructions with my tst plate said to use a 25 torx.

smoke_pedal

http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf

About halfway down, it tells you exactly how to take it out.

TxDiesel007

A good 3/8 screw driver

will tower above the fuel lines easily, so you grab the screwdriver from the handle with the vice grips and twist off.

KDP?

Killer Dowel Pin, its a little pin that is used to keep internals aligned and can eventually fall out of place and pretty much cause some serious damage if it isnt tabbed. best repair, is your TST kit, not difficult, ill save u a search, so u can read up on it.. thanks!

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...Repair+TST+Kit

Rick

infidel

I just drill the head off. Works every time whereas pounding around with torx bits and chisels often doesn't provide any results. After the rest of the bolts are removed the headless one will unscrew with just your fingers.
Replacement bolts are a common metric size available at most hardware stores.

infidel

The KDP is the "Killer Dowel Pin"

The aluminum front gear housing on the 5.9 Cummins is precisely located on the front of the cast iron engine block using dowel pins. The dowel pin is about 5/16 inch diameter by 3/4inch length made of steel. During engine assembly the dowel pins are driven into holes drilled in the block such that about half their length protrudes. Matching holes in the gear housing permit a precise fit of the housing the block. Several cap screws are used to hold the housing to the block. The problem with the dowel pin occurs because the hole in the aluminum gear housing was drilled through. During engine operation vibration could cause the dowel pin to work its way out of the hole and fall into the gear case. When the dowel pin falls, it can drop right to the oil pan or land in the gear housing, causing no damage at all.

On the other hand, the pin can be caught in the camshaft gear and forced into the aluminum gear housing, breaking out a big chunk of the housing which would cause a huge oil leak and an expensive, time consuming failure.

Worst-case failure is when the dowel pin goes between the cam and crank gears, or cam and injection pump gears, breaking the gear off the camshaft. The camshaft stops rotating instantly causing valves to stop operating, leaving some valves open and some closed. The crankshaft continues to rotate for a few seconds, slamming pistons into valves, and possibly ruining block, crank, rods, cylinder head, and valve train. Almost no reusable parts in this case, a complete engine swap would be required.

Don't let this potentially very expensive problem get you, buy a kit for $50 here http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=64

I know people who quit driving their trucks entirely once they heard of this problem until they got it fixed and others who have put it off resulting in a big bill.

davez900

I used a hacksaw blade and cut a slot in the top of the screw and used a good flat head screwdriver to remove it. Another time I banged too hard on the screw and broke the corner of the afc housing, be careful! lol

nates90

When I did mine about a week ago, it was disaster, I tried using a T-15 Torx bit, but that didnt work. Then i tried the screwdriver trick, that didnt work. So finially i decided to use the chisel trick. hahaha, it worked alright, broke the SOB flush with the pump housing. This is where it started the fun and games. I had to take all injection lines off so i could get to it, the i used a 5/32 drill bit with a #1 easy out, came right out, thank God. If you notice, your AFC housing has oval slots so it can slide on the 4 bolts, so, i was thinking, when i used the chisel, i hammered it in to the oval peice, which made it brake off flush, so what i would do is hammer it the other way (so its up against the AFC housing, in other terms, hammer it from the back of the engine, not the front.

Baja

The break-off bolt has a small dimple in the center of the head. The dimple makes a perfect centering point. I used a 1/8" x 6" drill and went in about 3/16" deep. A #20 torx bit will hammer in perfectly and you can easily remove the bolt. Lots of different ways to do this process.