yup, I'll NEVER understand why anyone would run their pyro post-turbo... I don't have my oil pressure gauge run to the oil pan... I don't have my water temperature gauge run to the radiator...

if you want to KNOW what's going on, you must run it pre-turbo!

 

I drilled and tapped my manifold so all of my readings are preturbo. How do i figure out if my pyro sensor or guage is bad. I really think 800 degrees at wot is incorrect. I don't want to end up melting pistons because of a faulty guage. My other guage, a trans temp guage still doesn't work. It slams to max temp every time i turn the truck on. I tried 7 different grounds and still no difference. I guess i don't have good luck with guages. I am willing to put a little bit of money in this truck because i got it so cheep. It is a 95 12v 3/4ton 4X4 with 220,000 on the ticker. Got it at bank foreclosure here for $3,500.00, its paint is peeling in some places and there are quite a few dings but what the heck, it's my toy. I'm gonna get the 4k spring kit, any other recommended upgrades, with that kit do i really need the 60lb valve springs or are they not needed. Any more help would be appreciated. I love this forum and i'll make sure when i go to iraq again i'll keep in touch and send you guys pictures of that place. OOHRAH

 

You will need the springs with the 4K kit.

 

60lb valve springs are a must with a 4K kit to avoid floating a valve. As far as other upgrades I don't know what type of transmission you have but if it is an automatic. It is most likley hating life. If it is a stick a stock clutch would also be hating life.

 

Again... for the hundredth time... 60lb valve springs are NOT necessary for the 4K GSK...

I ran a 4k on my 97 215 engine for about 145k miles... original valve springs now have ~245k miles on them.

keep the revs below 3500rpm, and you'll be fine.

a 95 pump is going to need a 4k kit to turn over 3000rpm w/ full fuel

 

Yea right----I have NO self control in my right foot, If she turns 4K, I gonna turn 4K I guess that is the teenager still in me!!!

 

when i first got the truck, the tranny had been rebuilt by a local shop within 5000 miles. i don't like local shops. i have rebuilt quite a few automatic trannies so i pull the transmission ordered an offbrand billet torque converter and a bd valve body. I adjusted the bands for nice tight shifts and rewired that darn tps. on the dyno it ran 380hp and 920lb of tq. no matter how hard i get on it, it never slips, i am impressed what a little tinkering can do. I spent a total of 700 dollars on the rebuild kit, torque converter, and valve body. it took me about 2 hours to get everything rebuilt and tweaked right with my friends help. After rebuilding so many transmissions it becomes second nature. If your transmission starts acting up, don't take it to a shop to get rebuilt. most of the time only a few bands need adjusted or pressure adjustment is needed. i hate watching someone taken on a 2000 dollar ride. im gonna do that 4k spring kit, probably will wait a little while on the valve spring kit, i need to invest in a dana70 or 80, i don't know how much longer this dana 60 is gonna hold up with the mixture of power and harsh treatment on the mud trail.

 

what is this valve float you talk about, i have never heard or seen it in any diesel i have worked on.

 

I installed my 3K kit before my 370's and noticed a huge difference. The added fuel with the 370's was just icing on the cake. I did however get the timing done the very next day because it would stutter pretty bad. I just PCS's here to NAS Atlanta (from MCAS Yuma) to play games with reservists. If you ever get out this way look me up.

Sgt Peterson

 

valve float is when RPMs increase to a point where the spring doesnt have enough force to close the valve in a normal amount of time so the valve is left somewere in between open and closed, potentially at a moment when the rising piston could come up and whack it. This is more common on very high-revving stuff like motorcycles, especially when a cam with higher lift is added.
Ive seen the performance shops like piers, etc recommend 60lb springs with the 4k gsk, so Id take their advice if I was going to install one. Theyre not all that expensive or difficult to do.

 

The stumble you are having is due to the injectors having a far different spray pattern than the stock injectors do. If you want to fix that stumble and keep more power than you have now, take out those 370's and those 191 and put the stock injectors back in and order a set of Schied laser cut delivery valves. Install all that making sure your timing is set properly 15-16 is fine and none of the DV gaskets are cracked or broken (Schied sends new ones with DV's) and the stumble will stop. Not to mention the truck will swing that pyro right around and get that thing movin. PM me if you have any other ?'s

Chris