BigBlue

I'm just curious to see who all has done it and how they are holding up.

JD730

I checked it out when had my head off, I would recommend bottom tapping them. The stud stuck up too high for my tastes, that and I didn't want it to interfere with my valve cover.

blackdiesel

i didnt....

95ram

I didn't and haven't had a problem.

cumminsdriver635

Just buy the tap for no more than $10 or so, and do it right. Its not hard to do, and it will be stronger because you have more thread contact. Just my opinion of course.

Eric

NoSeeUm

I didn't, as it was not recommended to me.

I used ARP 12mm studs, lubed them very lightly and all of them went in cleanly using a 1/4 inch drive socket and just my fingers to the bottom. I put the long studs outside the valve cover over the exhaust manifold. The rest went in with maybe 3-4 (as far as I remember) threads showing pretty even across all of them. Not a whole lot higher than the bolt heads. The long studs might have 10 threads showing. The end outside ones came the closest to interfering with the valve cover, but they cleared just fine. I set the studs up 1/4 to 3/8 of one turn from bottoming out in the block.

EDIT: You will need a good quality 12 piont 1/2 inch drive socket of medium depth for the longer studs.

Jim

PourinDiesel

EXACTLY! Do it right the first time. The threads are on those studs for a reason...

Also, more thread engagement is STRONGER PERIOD! not just opinion but FACT.

Jetpilot

Just do it right..... Thread engagement is one of the most important elements on a stud installation. Cutting corners will be regretted later.

Doug

Geico266

There should be no mystery to bottom tapping a blind hole. No more than a 1/4 turn forwards and back it off 1/2 turn to break the chips. Go slow, use a lube (WD-40 is better than nothing, but there are better fluids), use a t-handle for the tap, NOT a wrench, or a socket & ratchet. you need better control and no side force. That is what breaks taps. You air to blow out the chips. Go slow, this is not a race.

Rent / borrow the proper tools and you will do fine.

BARTMAN

Highly opinionated question often answered by arm chair mechanics who have not ever attempted the task at just installing studs, much less removing their heads and tapping their blocks. No, I have not "bottom tapped" my block, and yes, it holds 48psi quite well.

RowJ

My head was done in 03.... with 4340, blk oxide studs from Haisley. This was pre ARP studs and before anyone was discussing bottom tapping! Has held 65 psi well for last 10 months! Have not read of a single member having problems from not bottom tapping.
That being said.... hard to argue with more being better when it comes to # of threads holding a stud.

RJ

Geico266

Not sure why you feel the need for childish name calling, but what is wrong with doing the job right the 1st time? And in this example the head is off, that would be the time to do it right. Bottom tapping a blind hole is not rocket science.....for most of us.

John_P

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BARTMAN:

I am in total agreement with DTR Member "Geico266!"

I would bet that these other members you refer to as "arm chair mechanics"
have been at the diesel performance business longer than you think!
So, let this serve as your warning that this type of "banter" will not be tolerated here!

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John_P (Admin.)

John DiMartino

Most stock head gaskets/bolts will hold 48psi for a yr or longer.Bottom tapping is somethign you should do,I am not an arm chair mechanic,and ive personally seen,and worked on a few truck that stretched the threads in the block because they were not bottom tapped,and removing these studds can take hours.Not to mention the damage ,and fear when torquing them.Just do it right,if the head is off,more threads make a big difference esp,when you start going over 60psi,and using NOS.

RonA

I have a long tap and tap handle(leave head on). I have loaned it out a number of times. All I ask is that you cover my shipping cost(usually under 5 bucks). If you need to borrow it just send me a pm.

Ron