Alright. I've got my sound system set up pretty nicely. I've got Pioneer 200W max 2-ways in the front doors and 150w in the rears. I've got 2 dual voice coil Audiobahn 800+watt 12's under my backseat powered by a Pioneer 760w 2 channel amp (the subs are unbridged. If I bridge them, then the subs draw to much power and the amp cuts out ;D). I'll fix that problem later. I've also got a Sony X-Plod headunit that is 52wx4. My question is this, what would hooking up an amp to my door speakers do? Nothing big. Maybe a little 100-150w 4 channel amp or something. What would that do for the sound? How hard would it be to hook it up to my existing setup? Thanks.

 

Hooking into your existing set up would not be hard but I highly recommend it to you. You will experience much cleaner sound and more powerful sound from the doors the speakers will play lounder and cleaner because of them receiving better power. I don't want to knoock the head unitl but sony head units do reall suck. The are not what they are cracked up to be take it from someone that sells them! I personally would HIGHLY recommend a pioneer head unit in your truck I ran them for years until I switched to my screen I have now a CVA 1005 from Alpine but pioneer offers way more tunability. Any deck despite what they advertise do not produce clean undistorted power like a true amp will. I would highly recommend a zapco 360 reference for your doors that is what I run and love it works so good its unreal once you try the zapco stuff for the money you can't go wrong and it will make a believer out of you. I currently run a CVA 1005 Head unit with a DVD/MP3 changer, Focal polyglass mids and tweets now these aren't average speakers a set is about 1000 CDN, I run 2 JL 12 W3 V2's under my rear seat, all the speakers are powered by Zapco amps they work really good and win competitions all the time in my truck. so I guess after all that a zapco amp will work great and sound awesome!

 

BigBlue <br>I think if you get a 150x4 it should sound quite nicely ;D It wouldnt be that hard to connect everything, you have dual batts' you dont have to worry about that. Just get it and we can hook it up. that way you can really make your neighbors &gt; lol.

 

I figured that SD03. Now I just need the money. <br><br>Jamie, I know the sony headunit sucks. This is my second one (thank god for warranty). But I got it for a Christmas present last year so I'm not complaining.

 

Sounds good I hope my explaination didn't get too off track definately get an amp for those doors! You can sometimes pick up good stuff at the local hock shop for your ride for a descent price!

 

Hey BigBlue we can hook up some JL W7's in your truck.

 

If you'll give em to me for free, then sure. ;D Hey man, what about that 450 watt 2 Channel Brad has in his Stang? That wouldn't work, would it?

 

yeah amping the mid/high speakers makes a big difference<br><br>you could take the pioneer you got on the subs and run the front speakers with it .....leave the rears off the deck.........and get a class D mono amp for thr subs ..........be sure to match the impedance of the subs to the amp , 2 4ohm subs in parralell makes a 2 ohm mono load <br><br>http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html<br><br>an mtx 8100d is a nice amp and should drive those subs nicley<br><br><br><br><br><br><br>

 

Hey DRam
The subs are Audiobahn They sound totally different than JL's. The way that BB has his stuff set up works out well. I hope that he is smart enough and will not run that 760 for the highs.Ands maybe BB will buy a mono amp from me and I hook it up on series and run everything down to 1ohm and that way he will slam harder than he has ever heard.

 

[quote author=dodgeram link=board=7;threadid=10562;start=0#101093 date=1044488009]<br>yeah amping the mid/high speakers makes a big difference<br><br>you could take the pioneer you got on the subs and run the front speakers with it .....leave the rears off the deck.........and get a class D mono amp for thr subs ..........be sure to match the impedance of the subs to the amp , 2 4ohm subs in parralell makes a 2 ohm mono load <br><br>http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html<br><br>an mtx 8100d is a nice amp and should drive those subs nicley<br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br>[/quote]<br><br>As far as wiring is concerned, if properly hooked up 2 4ohm DVC subs will present a 1 ohm load at the amp. Look here for clarification. The 1 ohm wiring is what is considered parallel and the 4 ohm is considered series. It is hard to find amps that will run stable at 1 ohm mono. I recommend the Kicker XS series amp. They are no longer produced but you can find them on eBay. I have the XS-50 running 2 10 Kicker Comp VRs and they sound great. The amp is a competition amp that is classified as 25X2 @ 4 ohms. When presented with a 1 ohm load it puts out 600 watts! It is stable to 1 ohm mono and 1/2 ohm stereo. I am looking to upgrade to the xs-100 that puts out 1200 watts. I apparently need to wake the neighbors in the NEXT subdivision over. ;D

 

sorry missed that , didn't realize they were dvc subs .........I didn't say they sounded like JL's ......the JL link is to a tutorial in how to get different loads from different sub combinations .......<br><br><br><br>BTW there's lots of 1 ohm stable 1000 watt class d amps (most are)<br><br>crossfire VR1000d<br><br>memphis 1100d<br><br>kicker kx1200.1<br><br>come to mind right off the batt , there's many others<br><br><br>Audiobahn also makes a few 1 ohm stable models<br><br><br>

 

JL's are stable to 1 OHM to!

 

How are you wiring the Door speakers for an amp? Are you splicing the stock wiring somewhere, or are you running seperate wires into the door so that you can make a clean switch back to deck power should you choose to?

 

BB and I will prolly run +/- from left and right for front and rear to the amp then go from there.

 

Defintaley run dedicated wires from the amp to the speakers don't splice into the factory crap wires! I ran my 4 channel from under my drivers seat and my sub amp from the passengers seat.