Spool up....
#1
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
Spool up....
Allright guys. I am running a 0 plate, 3k, Goerend Converter, and a hx35 with a 16cm housing with 3:54 gears, and 285 tires. My truck doesent spool fast at all. It smokes like crazy down low, and probably takes 4 or 5 seconds to spool from a dead stop. Just driving easy; I pretty much always have a haze of smoke if the truck is under any kind of load, and I am accelerating. It seems to spool better if i just roll into the throttle. Now; with the stock converter, it spooled plenty fast. This converter is another story though. It is TIGHT, and it made it much slower to spool, but it pulls awesome once I get it going. Im just wondering if everyones is like this, or if something weird is going on. From 10psi or so, boost will jump, and it will go right on, but taking off, it is pretty sluggish. About anything could beat me off the line unless I build boost. I have a light haze at WOT once the turbo is spooled, and egt's are fine. I tried the 12cm housing again, and couldnt really tell any difference in spoolup taking off. I tried backing my starwheel back to where the spring was tight again with no help. All it did was hurt power. I have pulled the AFC back with not much luck. It still smokes about the same, but it just isnt as dark. I have a 100 plate I ground for my buddy in his 94, and it really doesent smoke much at all, but the truck runs great. Im thinking of trying it. The thing is; I thought the "foot" on the underside of the AFC housing was supposed to keep the Governor arm off the plate till it got enough boost; so the plate shouldnt make any difference until you get boost, right?? Would a bigger compressor wheel from HTT help me out any? I just think my truck could spool a little faster, and I know the converter is a lot of it, but I love how tight it is once i get it spooled so im not changing it. Its just that the haze of smoke under normal acceleration just gets old, and i know isnt good on fuel mileage. Thanks for any help or ideas guys.
Eric
Eric
#3
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
I think it is working fine... If I pull the plug that went to my wastegate(since i dont have one now), that is in the boost line running to the AFC, it acts as a valet switch(a lot less power, but still a decent bit of smoke down low). It has plenty of power for what I have done to it; just seems slow to spool, and a lot of smoke down low. Why would that make it smoke more, and spool up slower if it wasnt working? It may be normal, I just wish I could get it to do a little better.
Eric
Eric
#4
I have a strong feeling that your converter is just to tight. Even a small turbo like yours needs some rpm's to spool up. I'm a little worried about mine once I get the tranny built. That's why I'm going a little on the loose side. Your gearing isn't helping much either. 3.54's aren't known for their city driving behavior.
#5
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
Originally Posted by BigBlue
I have a strong feeling that your converter is just to tight. Even a small turbo like yours needs some rpm's to spool up. I'm a little worried about mine once I get the tranny built. That's why I'm going a little on the loose side. Your gearing isn't helping much either. 3.54's aren't known for their city driving behavior.
Eric
#6
Slow spool up is one of the downsides of a tight converter. Mine is a little doggy off the line too with the 89% DTT. I noticed a vast improvement in spool up when I installed the 4" exhaust. I now get about 2 seconds of lag when I mash it and then boost pretty much shoots up to 32 psi. It stays there until the top end of third gear where it starts climbing to 38 psi. EGT's start climbing when boost gets over 35 psi.
I talked with the guys at PDR and they told me to play with the starwheel and AFC housing position to improve lag. They told me I'm not fueling enough to warrant an AFC spring kit. They also suggested that I check fuel pressure. I'm in the middle of moving so I don't have time to mess with it right now.
What's the stall speed on your 3 disk converter? I break the tires loose brake torquing at about 1900 RPM.
I talked with the guys at PDR and they told me to play with the starwheel and AFC housing position to improve lag. They told me I'm not fueling enough to warrant an AFC spring kit. They also suggested that I check fuel pressure. I'm in the middle of moving so I don't have time to mess with it right now.
What's the stall speed on your 3 disk converter? I break the tires loose brake torquing at about 1900 RPM.
#7
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
Im not sure what the stall is on my converter. I might try power braking, and see when it starts spinning the tires as you did. It basically just seems like it is putting out the fire if I just mash it. It really smokes quite a bit before it spools. Im also thinking spoolup will be better when I put the 215's in; especially with the 181's(or at least i will hope)Thanks for the help/suggestions guys..
Eric
Eric
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#9
Originally Posted by cumminsdriver635
Thats all i can figure so far too. I can live with it, its just a little aggrovating. I think my truck runs fine, but this converter is just tight! I might still switch the plate out. I would mainly just like to get the smoke down some even if it doesent spool any better, and I think I can do that with a plate that is less agressive down low. I think if I had 4:10's it would be fine, but i dont like them at all on the highway. I also feel if i had 245's back on it, it would be a decent bit better, but I refuse to go back to tires that small. 285's are about right for stock suspension, and thats how it will stay. Spoolup with a load on a big hill can be tricky. You pretty much just have to black out the road. I love it once you get rolling though, because it pulls as good as any stick shift. Hard to have your cake, and eat it too I guess .
Eric
Eric
a 14cm or a 12cm? I know u had those on there before, the smaller exhaust housing although rough on EGTS will aid u with that rapid spoolup... I know u know this, but perhaps the thought might have temporarily slipped..
Rick
#11
Did you check for a boost leak? We have seen trucks act like your with a small leak..... Check the intake manifold as well as all boots and clamps. A small leak will really bleed off the air until the turbo is up and spinning hard.
If this is not the case then I agree on the TC being on the tight side.
Doug Smith
If this is not the case then I agree on the TC being on the tight side.
Doug Smith
#12
A bigger compressor wheel will make it worse. Ben there done that! You need to go to a smaller exhaust hsg then adjust your afc so you don't overfuel down low or you will put out the fire. On the back of your afc is a cap that is held on with two screws remove this cap behind it you will see a allen head stud with a 10mm lock nut back this all the way out till you feel no tension on the bolt try driving your truck and see how it smokes then if it smokes to little run the stud in a little trial and error.
#13
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
Allright guys. My tires start spinning about 1800-1900rpm if i power brake it. I want to check for a boost leak... Whats the best way to go about pressurizing the system. I just think it should be better. Holding a steady 2500rpm in park holds 2psi.. My buddies 97 with the stock 12cm housing(i have a 16) makes 8psi at a steady 2500rpm. I know the housing will make a little difference, but I didnt think it would make that much. Any opinions?Thanks!
Eric
Eric
#14
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From: Garrard county, Kentucky
Well; my buddy has the pipe cap I need with a valve already in it, so I am gonna try it out sometime soon, and see if I have any leaks or not. Hopefully I will find a few, and that is what is causing my problem? Or it could be a tight converter, but I am gonna heck for a boost leak anyways just to be sure. Ill report back after I pressure test it.
Eric
Eric