Chip

I'm getting ready to install a Southbend clutch,the MU 0090 ConO, does anybody have any instalation tips, tricks or pointers that can ease the pain of this install. Any responses would be greatly appreciated
Chip

gandrews

I had a similiar question a while back - received a few good comments.

http://www.dodge-diesel.org/yabbse/i...threadid=21336

Still haven't had time to do mine so I can't add anything.

Good luck

George

DieselDaze

I moved this post to the Performance and Accessories section in hopes that you might get a few more replies.

Rich.

dieselman24

Best tip of them all DONT BUY A SOUTHBEND THEY ARE JUNK just give me a call and I can fix you up for half the money I have a clutch builder right here in my back yard that I found he built mine and it is awsome.. Send it back if you have not put it in yet.Mine blew all to hell and scatterd stuff..573 578 5000 (I need to change my signature too)

MDW

There's nothing wrong with Southbend clutches don't be swayed by 1 opinion.

My tips are to have something on hand to spread the frame to get the crossmember out. We use a hydraulic ram.
The cross memeber and the shifter are the hardest parts.

Last tip is to change the rubber fuel lines while you are in there as they are very easy to change with the trans out

Good luck you will enjoy Peters clutch.

Smokee

You don't need to spread the fram. Lift the drivers side up and forward, I think, and out it will come.
george
Been there done that lots of times

Haulin_in_Dixie

[quote author=Smokey link=board=7;threadid=21929;start=0#msg206152 date=1068072343]
You don't need to spread the fram. Lift the drivers side up and forward, I think, and out it will come.
george
Been there done that lots of times
[/quote]

Jacking on the frame would trash it, no need as was posted by Smokey. Jack up the trans, remove the mount and the crossmember bolts, use a hammer and knock the crossmember foreward and up, the ends are tapered. That will loosen it up so that you can manover it out of the truck. The gearshift is also easy, just remove the four bolts and lift if off. Make sure it is in neutral first.

sixpack47

I have mu 1947 con O and love it! ;D
I would highly recommend a SB clutch!
As for tips on install, do like I did and have a South Bend installer do it for you !
Best $300 I've spent! ;D

Chip

Thanks for all the excellent tips, I do appreciate it !
Chip

MCummings

[quote author=dieselman24 link=board=7;threadid=21929;start=0#msg205889 date=1068009119]
Best tip of them all DONT BUY A SOUTHBEND THEY ARE JUNK just give me a call and I can fix you up for half the money I have a clutch builder right here in my back yard that I found he built mine and it is awsome.. Send it back if you have not put it in yet.Mine blew all to hell and scatterd stuff..573 578 5000 (I need to change my signature too)
[/quote]

You can fix him up for half the price?

What clutch did you mess up? The 12.25"? Those are now only recomended for easy driving, and lower HP.

I have a 13" OFE, and it's holding very cloe to 500RWHP, and I have a friend who can break anything (Including three Cummins) and He hasn't broken his 13" Con FE, or His Dual Disc.

I have heard nothing but praise, and have nothing but good things to say about Peter at South Bend.

The thing about SBC's You have to select the clutch for your HP range, AND Driving style. A Con O might be perfect for on person, but, another person with the same mods might need an OFE.

I can get away with a Con OFE, while my friend HAS to have a Dual Disc to hold his power although he has 50 less HP than I do. Different driving styles.

dieselman24, What experiance did you have with SouthBend? Peter helped me out big time, in ways he didn't have to. Same thing with several of my friends. Yes, they blew up some of Peter's clutches, but Peter left none of them to stand alone, and has now revised his clutch selections to have the proper clutch for the proper Person.

My Vote is for SouthBendClutch.

Merrick Cummings Jr

MDW

Ok, thats it >
I am getting way too tired of being told my "opinion" is wrong.

If you don't think the frames of these trucks isn't moving when we unleash 600+ hp at it then yall be wrong.
Moving the frame slightly to get the cross member out is not going to "trash" the frame, its just a convenience to help with removing it.

I have been BOMBing these trucks for quite awhile and know a thing or two about them but thats it, I will not be sharing any more "tips/opinions". GET OVER YOURSELVES.

Haulin_in_Dixie

MDW it was my post that upset you, for that I apologize. I am sure that you would not "trash" the frame by jacking it. Some on this thread or in any group do not have the experience with tools of this type that you do. In all good intentions an inexperienced person could easily jack too far with a portapower and hurt the frame. The mounts for the crossmember are tapered with the front and top wider than the rear and bottom. Slightly moving the crossmember to the front and up releases the crossmember to pull it out. That was the only point that I was making. It would be beneficial to the board for you to stay and add your comments, experience and tips. I am sure that you have vast more experience in bombing than I and many others do with the cummins.

People who work with vehicles, including myself have their ways and many times strong opinions and are not afraid to express them, sometimes stepping on toes unintentionly. You are new to the board with a few posts, stay and add to the great knowledge that can be gained through the board.

Bill

MCummings

Haulin in Dixie,, I'm not trying to pound you deeper,, but,,

On my Automatic truck, there was NO WAY my crossmember was going to come out by hitting it up, and forwards.

Remove every single bolt out of the crossmember that could hold it from coming out.

What I did, (I don't have a portapower) I got a come-along and wrapped the cable around the frame (Near the passenger door), and the other end to a tree (90* out from the frame) I put a beach towel on the cable (in case it snapped) and started slowly cranking away on the come-along. It didn't take much, and the Crossmember literally just fell out. The frame spread only about 1". To install it, I did the same thing. If the frame could not flex a little (1-2" is a little) you would have hairline cracks Everywhere in the frame, especially near the motor mounts, control arms, and leaf spring attachment points.

The frame is not brittle on these trucks, and spreading the frame isn't going to ruin your truck. I know a guy who used about the same method of me, but replaced the come-along and tree with a Z-71 :-* He probably stretched his frame more than 1", and his truck is fine.

Merrick Cummings Jr

AlpineRAM

I did trannies on several trucks and IMHO due to production tolerances some truc would need to be convinced a little more than the other to let the crossmember go. If using a hydraulic device you just have to be shure that you don't overdo it and to use enough area to distribute the force to avoid dents or kinks in the frame. I do always press just enough to get that stuff moving because I don't want to use more force than necessary.

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM