I just installed my 4gsk from tst.I also have a new 3gsk from piers so I have both instructions sets.I was going to try to go through the top as in the tst instructions.I decided not to do it that way since The rack ,or whatever the shaft with the spring is, looked like it would be hard to get the springs and retainer by without dropping a spring or retainer off the magnet used to remove and install them

I decided to try it as instructed in the peirs directions,through the side plug.I took the shutoff solenoid off,the third bolt that is on the rear is a pain.After the solenoid is lifted out of the way that leaves the hole plug,it was tight but i got it loose without to much trouble,the edges of the nut on it are rounded so hold your socket tight on it.The worst part of the plug is getting it past the linkage.A good set of needle nose pliers is the thing i used here.I unscrewed it the rest of the way with the needle nose while holding the the linkage over,there is almost no clearence.I reinstalled the plug with the needle nose also,you really need them.

I think one step everyone skips in the piers instructions is marking the nut and top retainer in relation to each other.The picture is bad in the instructions so it hard to understand what they mean.I took a paint pen and just marked across both the nut and retainer so i could line these two up on reassembly.Note where the marks are in relation to the pump housing so the top retainer is installed in the same position,a paint mark on the housing will assure you get it back in the same spot.Then I went to the caliper measurement.The measurements were different on each side from the factory.

After all this I loosened the nut with a flat screwdriver enough to clear the bumps on the nut that align with valleys on the top spring retainer that make the clicks everyone talks about.They are maybe 1/4 inch wide,so a click is maybe 1/4 nut turn.Definately bigger than i was imagining for a click.After the nut is backed off enough to clear the clicks I unscrewed it the rest of the way with an extending magnet.This is an important tool on this job so have a good one.The one i used has a screwdriver handle with a telescoping shaft,like a radio antenna with a small maybe 3/8 inch strong magnet on it.

Now take the magnet and pull out the top retainer and then the springs and bottom retainer ,it has shims on it.They stick to it with the motor oil so its hard to see them.Leave the biggest outer spring in place.If it has a shim under you will never know since you dont remove it.It stay like it is.Everything you take out besides the top retainer with the slots and the nut stays out ,dont reuse any of it.Now stack only the new springs on the new bottom retainer and slide them all in one piece onto the shaft .Push them on all the way.Now take the top retainer that has flat spots on the hole that fits on the shaft so it can only go on two ways.The original position or 180 degrees off.Install it in the original position by checking the mark you made on the pump housing on removal.Now reinstall the nut ,it will spin freely until you get to the clicks,now turn it down with a screwdriver until your paint marks line up and measure to see if its close to the measurements you made on removal with the calipers.Mine was about 3 clicks i think.My measurements were a little different but would have been way off if I turned the nut a complete turn either way to align my marks so i know i had it in the original position.I think the small difference in the measurement was the difference in height from the old springs and retainer to the new ones .With my marks all realigned it started and idled exactly as it did to begin with.It seems to me aligning the marks is the best way to get it right the first time and use the caliper mesurement as the ball park figure to get close enough to align the marks.


I can't tell the difference in the way it runs at idle.It is quicker reving and pulls way on up to 3000 easily.It makes it pull on up like a gas truck,way nicer to drive and anyone thinking of doing this ,get to it you will really like it.I dont plan to rev mine anywhere over 3000 but I have been advised that the 4gsk works better with my 160 pump that the 3gsk.I have no driveability problems at all and if you had never driven a 12v you would think it came from the factory that way,besides having a ton o power and torque.

The things I have learned that may help anyone installing their kit is have a good pair of needle nose pliers, a good telescopic magnet and a paint pen.Use the paint to make marks so you can easily put the nut and retainer in thier original places.The only thing hard about the whole deal is getting the hole plug in and out and the pain in the ace third bolt in the shutoff solenoid. Both are just tedious and time consuming .

I hope this post along with the instructions that come with the peirs kit will clear up a few things and make the install a little clearer and easier for anyone wanting the GSk.

 

the marker trick works, the 98s have a painted on witness line, so they are easy. i spray them down with brake cleaner then used a permenant marker to give me a witness line. makes reassemble way faster

 

Dufrain

I thought it was a pretty easy mod compaired to timing the engine that wasn't too muct fun. I went in the side of the pump, it took more time for removals but the springs are right there not 6" down inside to pump. I took a 7/16 socket and cut it down so it had 2 **** to engage the nuts on the springs. I'm glad to see you got it done.

What about those Valve Springs?

CRIS

 

Yep I thought it was best to go in through the side to.I might do the valve springs one day,I dont plan to run it up over 3000 anyway,it runs great all the way to 3 ,im ready to shift by then.My clutch doesnt like this mod at all.I have all the power I can use until i replace the clutch.I think I have my home grown 10 plate too far forward to,my egt gets up there pretty good.I still dont have my bhaf on there,I still have to get a chunk of 4 inch pipe to go in it and its hard to find around here.I also need a heatshield and outerwear pre filter,maybe it will drop my egt a little.

 

Dufrain, I agree your pointers are right on. I agree also with m-d that the job should be done through the side port. I created a large problem when I dropped a spring seat when working through the top.

I have one step to add to the process: Remove the shutoff lever assembly. It takes 1 minute (don't lose the shaft key) and gives you easy access to the port.

 

Dufrain: Good post thanks for taking the time. Also taking the shutoff lever off was mandatory for me. Here are a bunch of pics I took when I installed my 3K GSK hope this works.

3K GSK

 

Great post! I agree that removing the arm is the way to do it.



On a side note to DustyRock you can use a plumbing adapter on that bhaf from home depot or anywhere else. workes good for me.

 

Hey sharp machine which plumbing adapter is it.The white pvc or what do they call it.thanx

 

Sorry I don't know what it is called. It was in my garage (spare parts). Just measure what you need go get one and try it in your filter in the parking lot, it will be easier than expected to get what you want, and cheap to.

good luck

 

Just to add my $0.02 worth - I had a hard time getting the side plug off when I did mine so I used a metric socket 22mm and it gripped much tighter then the 7/8"one.

 

My plug was safety wired and it was real tight, but not as tight as that nut on the injection pump

CRIS

 

22mm Socket does fit better than the 7/8. The saftey wire actually does not go thru the plug but in front of it. See pic "ready to come off" and you will see the saftey wire. It seems better to cut on the left side where it attaches to the pump. Glad to help, pics really are worth a thousand words.

 

would it be a good thing to put the 4-k's in while i got the pump off now, and how can i get the 4-k without valve springs. i have the head off too and alredy installed 60's

 

it would be way easier to install the 4gsk with the pump off,it will probably take 10 minutes.You can get the 4gsk at tst 125 shipped,with no valve springs
On your other parts you wanting to get,370 injectors ,191 dvs and a 4gsk seems like a good setup if you some some turbo mods to keep it cool.The only cam I know of is peirs and the timing most people say 16-18 on a stock headgasket.

 

peirs,mitchell ,haisley and sheid all have street cams for under $500. they also have pulling cams but you have to empy your savings account to have one.