Smoke switch
#1
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Smoke switch
I have seen a few boxes for sale in the classifieds with "smoke switches" and Im wondering if I can put one on my EZ. I think you just run the MAP sensor on a switch but im not sure. Anyone else know or have any ideas?
Thanks, Matt
Thanks, Matt
#2
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You are right. Look here.
http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=QVRPipmo8sU
http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=calYlhUf9GE
http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=QVRPipmo8sU
http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=calYlhUf9GE
#3
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Just curious, does this switch work on any sort of module? And does it add power since the ECM isn't reading boost so it should be dumping more fuel in?
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#8
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When you have a P pump, its too easy to do the same thing with pump settings and get all on the fuel too early.. All you get is alot of smoke and no go. Been there.
#9
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is it neccesary to have a box for this switch or can it be done without one? im in the process of finding some warm weather to slide the plate and stuff on my 97. but i like smoke i would just like to control when i get it rather than irritate everyone in town
#10
I am actually to blame for all the "smoke switch" crap from several years ago for guys wanting more out of our old Xzillraider fuel only boxes.
What you are really doing with a smoke switch is telling the computer it has full boost even when you have little to zero boost. This allows the ECM to fuel based on max boost levels, hence more smoke.
This only works somewhat well on a stock truck.
Where this really shines is when you can send a full or max boost message to a module, then it really works much better because you are tricking the box into thinking full boost has been made.
Boost foolers are also something totally different. These are devices that only allow the factory computer to see a certain amount of boost so that they do not de-fuel or set soft codes because it sees an overboost situation.
To do the smoke switch right you either need a boost fooler (on a stock or programmed truck) or a box that connects to the MAP sensor and does boost fooling and relies on boost pressure to provide additional fueling.
With a boost fooler you need to basically jump the 5v power feed into the boost input of the boost fooler. This needs to be done on the sensor side. If you do this the boost fooler will spit out the max allowable boost number to the ECM as soon as you flip the switch. On a stock or programmed truck it will help make some smoke but, nothing crazy.
Same concept works on most boxes and it needs to be done the same way but, remember it has to be on the sensor side. If you do it on the ECM side the boost fooling will not work and you are likely to set an overboost code.
Hope that helps.
What you are really doing with a smoke switch is telling the computer it has full boost even when you have little to zero boost. This allows the ECM to fuel based on max boost levels, hence more smoke.
This only works somewhat well on a stock truck.
Where this really shines is when you can send a full or max boost message to a module, then it really works much better because you are tricking the box into thinking full boost has been made.
Boost foolers are also something totally different. These are devices that only allow the factory computer to see a certain amount of boost so that they do not de-fuel or set soft codes because it sees an overboost situation.
To do the smoke switch right you either need a boost fooler (on a stock or programmed truck) or a box that connects to the MAP sensor and does boost fooling and relies on boost pressure to provide additional fueling.
With a boost fooler you need to basically jump the 5v power feed into the boost input of the boost fooler. This needs to be done on the sensor side. If you do this the boost fooler will spit out the max allowable boost number to the ECM as soon as you flip the switch. On a stock or programmed truck it will help make some smoke but, nothing crazy.
Same concept works on most boxes and it needs to be done the same way but, remember it has to be on the sensor side. If you do it on the ECM side the boost fooling will not work and you are likely to set an overboost code.
Hope that helps.
#11
Chapter President
The mechanical pump is not the same as the smoke switch for the electronic engines. For the P-pump engines, its typically installed as a "valet" switch which runs a solenoid valve to block boost air pressure from the AFC. This keeps the AFC arm from moving and you don't get any more fuel than the minimum. So essentially it would work opposite to the electronic engine switch where you would turn it on for smoke, we would turn it on NOT to smoke.
The only way I can control smoke reliably is by setting up the AFC and using the right foot.
The only way I can control smoke reliably is by setting up the AFC and using the right foot.
#12
For those that care here is one of the original links where all this "smoke switch" crap got started:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...moke+switch%22
Go to post #6 and read towards the middle and you will see where the concept came from.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...moke+switch%22
Go to post #6 and read towards the middle and you will see where the concept came from.
#13
this also works with an edge comp and juice. but to add a switch to it exatly how do i do it. i find the 5V source on the stock sensor and on the edge harness and just wire a switch bewteen the two correct?
#14
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i ran wires to both outside wires on the map sensor harness on my edge juice with attitude on my 01 and wired a switch to it..then my check engine light came on..used a regular swith,no indicator light on it or anything..wanting to know what i did wrong..from what i read those are the wires i was supposed to tap into..
#15
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Quad, I read through that old post of yours.
Will jumping the wires or making a smoke switch help out with low rpm fueling on your current XZT+?
Will jumping the wires or making a smoke switch help out with low rpm fueling on your current XZT+?