I think the SC is a timing only programmer.

 

superchips is mainly timing, and a little more aggressive fuel map. the xzillaraider is a fueling only box via the wire tap. you have to have a wire tap to make more than +65hp. the xzillaraider is a 120hp fueling box.

 

If all correct above, like you said, I could add a boost fooler, keep the schip stack the xzillaraider and new 1.6 injectors and have a killer setup or would the 1.6s provide to much fuel w/the xzill. sorry for all the questions and thanks for the help/clarification.

 

You shouldn't need a boost fooler. That would be a decent amount of fuel for your HX and a lot of fun for playing around, maybe a little warm for towing. Good thing is you can turn the xzillaraider down/off for towing so you don't have to worry.

 

thanks for all the input. How does one go about getting the ECU reflashed to return to stock? In order to install the XZT+ I have to do this and don't have the schip programmer.

Is this something dealers charge for and can easily be done?

 

Take it to the dealer and have them flash it...of course they will charge you 1 hr shop time so you might be able to do it for under $100.

 

For about the same money as 2 new XZT+'s you can buy 1 new Smarty. I have tried both, the Smarty has better performance. The Smarty also condenses the throttle pedal and causes a whole lot more smoke. The Smarty can do tire size adjustment and speed limiter. The XZT+ does high idle warm up. The Smarty software has rarely been updated, the XZT+ gets constant attention by Quadzilla with many updates to choose from.

Really its a toss up. Consider better performance with the Smarty trading on the fly adjustability and a huge price difference to the XZT+.

Jim

 

Thanks for the 2cents...already purchased the XZT+ now I just need to figure out how to get the ECU cleared/reflashed so I can install it. My priority for the upgrades has to deal w/being able to tow without 2000deg egts.

 

LOL That's me a day late and a dollar short.

Give Bob Wagner a PM or a call. I am only guessing he could help you out.

Jim

 

no worries, thanks for the input.
I did notice that someone said to disconnect both batts, turn the key on for 30sec and then touch the pos & neg lines together. This should clear the ECU and return it to stock....can anyone confirm this? It beats going to the dealer and serving them a $100.

 

All that might do is clear any codes you have but I don't see any way it'll re-flash the ECM. You'll either need the original SC or take it the dealer.

 

Hamilton is correct, it will not change the ECM. I would contact Bob before I contacted the dealer.

Jim

 

Doesn't he work for Smarty? If not, then I have him mixed up w/someone else. Can you post his user name so I can send a PM? thanks.

 

Yeah he is the Smarty guy, but also fairly well known as an ECM Guru. My only point in suggesting him at all is that he might save you some $$.

Jim

 

So can you send me Mr."Smarty" pants user name/or ph #. No pun intended.