Sliding Stock fuel plate, semi-specific questions
#1
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Sliding Stock fuel plate, semi-specific questions
First of all, sorryfor making yet another thread about sliding the stock fuel plate. I have been doing a little research about this, found this site:
http://cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58
I was wonder, assuming I run into no problems, how long this should take to do for the first time? Anyone have any input?
Also, what is the thread diameter and pitch of the break-off screw? I would like to have a new bolt to put in its place when reinstalling.
I have full gauges installed, so I can keep an Eye on EGTs. When sliding the plate forward how important are the other adjustments? I tried searching for info about all this but when you search all I can find is numerious threads where the only information given is "Slide your plate forward" thats all the info given.
Let me know, Thanks, Tim
http://cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58
I was wonder, assuming I run into no problems, how long this should take to do for the first time? Anyone have any input?
Also, what is the thread diameter and pitch of the break-off screw? I would like to have a new bolt to put in its place when reinstalling.
I have full gauges installed, so I can keep an Eye on EGTs. When sliding the plate forward how important are the other adjustments? I tried searching for info about all this but when you search all I can find is numerious threads where the only information given is "Slide your plate forward" thats all the info given.
Let me know, Thanks, Tim
#2
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Tim, I don't want to offend you but I think you are making it a little too diffcult on yourself. I agree it's better taking easy steps, this is good.
I just did my plate last week, I was in same position as you are right now.
At the end it was a very straightforward and simple operation, I didn't slide my plate all the way forward I kept it approx 1/8" back, I don't have the immediate "surge" that others might have but I like it this way so I can control the power with throttle pedal.
The screw head will get reshaped with the torx tool, I actually used a long torx screwdriver and tapped it into the hole, reinstalling same screw was very easy.
I believe you will have to "experiment" with your settings, although mine are fine the way I set it for my need.
Honestly, just go ahead, follow the instructions and don't worry too much since it's honestly a simple job, I was scared too to open injector pump....not anymore now.
I just did my plate last week, I was in same position as you are right now.
At the end it was a very straightforward and simple operation, I didn't slide my plate all the way forward I kept it approx 1/8" back, I don't have the immediate "surge" that others might have but I like it this way so I can control the power with throttle pedal.
The screw head will get reshaped with the torx tool, I actually used a long torx screwdriver and tapped it into the hole, reinstalling same screw was very easy.
I believe you will have to "experiment" with your settings, although mine are fine the way I set it for my need.
Honestly, just go ahead, follow the instructions and don't worry too much since it's honestly a simple job, I was scared too to open injector pump....not anymore now.
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Tim, I don't want to offend you but I think you are making it a little too diffcult on yourself. I agree it's better taking easy steps, this is good.
I just did my plate last week, I was in same position as you are right now.
At the end it was a very straightforward and simple operation, I didn't slide my plate all the way forward I kept it approx 1/8" back, I don't have the immediate "surge" that others might have but I like it this way so I can control the power with throttle pedal.
The screw head will get reshaped with the torx tool, I actually used a long torx screwdriver and tapped it into the hole, reinstalling same screw was very easy.
I believe you will have to "experiment" with your settings, although mine are fine the way I set it for my need.
Honestly, just go ahead, follow the instructions and don't worry too much since it's honestly a simple job, I was scared too to open injector pump....not anymore now.
I just did my plate last week, I was in same position as you are right now.
At the end it was a very straightforward and simple operation, I didn't slide my plate all the way forward I kept it approx 1/8" back, I don't have the immediate "surge" that others might have but I like it this way so I can control the power with throttle pedal.
The screw head will get reshaped with the torx tool, I actually used a long torx screwdriver and tapped it into the hole, reinstalling same screw was very easy.
I believe you will have to "experiment" with your settings, although mine are fine the way I set it for my need.
Honestly, just go ahead, follow the instructions and don't worry too much since it's honestly a simple job, I was scared too to open injector pump....not anymore now.
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Yesssss Sir, all the way up. with my truck is the position of the fuel plate that "commands" the response.
I tried today after I posted this (having fun with the truck) if I slide plate all the way forward truck is almost uncontrollable, it might be a timing problem too (advanced).
I tried today after I posted this (having fun with the truck) if I slide plate all the way forward truck is almost uncontrollable, it might be a timing problem too (advanced).
#5
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Bingo, everyone will want stuff set differently. I had my starwheel all the way loose for 3 miles, pulled into a parking lot to tighten it. Some love it loose. You will find what you like.
#6
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AS nick stated
starwheel plays a huge role in smoke control, so does your AFC (top of the injection pump u remove to move the plate) You will notice the holes are elongated and you can slide it full forward, centered, or back, in either case this will make a huge difference in fuel as well..
add that to the equation, Plate + afc + starwheel = your smoke and lower end power levels.. again these are three variables that must all be tinkered with to get ur desired levels..
Hey its half the fun of owning a P pumped truck
Rick
starwheel plays a huge role in smoke control, so does your AFC (top of the injection pump u remove to move the plate) You will notice the holes are elongated and you can slide it full forward, centered, or back, in either case this will make a huge difference in fuel as well..
add that to the equation, Plate + afc + starwheel = your smoke and lower end power levels.. again these are three variables that must all be tinkered with to get ur desired levels..
Hey its half the fun of owning a P pumped truck
Rick
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The break off screw is a PITA, but with a small punch and a hammer you can loosen it by tapping the side of the head. I found it MUCH easier than trying to hammer a torx into the head, and easier to get to. If I were you I'd buy 4 new bolts to replace all of them at the same time. I bought some but can't remember the thread pitch/size. I bought Allen head screws for mine.
I slid the stock plate on my stock '97 and it made a huge difference in power and responsiveness. I would have ground my plate to a #100, but I don't have gauges so I'm just taking it easy til my budget allows. The starwheel makes a very noticeable difference in smoke. Mine is pretty mild for now, but boost comes on very early now, and I love it.
Just play with the starwheel, housing, and plate locations til you set it how you like it.
I slid the stock plate on my stock '97 and it made a huge difference in power and responsiveness. I would have ground my plate to a #100, but I don't have gauges so I'm just taking it easy til my budget allows. The starwheel makes a very noticeable difference in smoke. Mine is pretty mild for now, but boost comes on very early now, and I love it.
Just play with the starwheel, housing, and plate locations til you set it how you like it.
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#8
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There are 2 different lengths on the AFC screws. The small bolts closest to the engine were 6mm x 1.0 x 18 and the longer ones were 6mm x 1.0 x 24. I used allen head cap screws which you can get at any hardward store.
#9
Break-off screw removal is easy, there are a bunch of posts on that. Some use a left twist drill bit, others a chisel, a few of about 18 different ways. I drill a 1/8" hole in the head, hammer in a torx, and out it comes, takes about 5 minutes. Research the posts for a lot of info.
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[QUOTE=displacedtexan;1355223]Stick or auto? Diesel Manor has Pyro/boost for like $225. Better safe than sorry with an engine[/QUOTE
its a stick, and thats about the cheapest i have found them too.
its a stick, and thats about the cheapest i have found them too.
#15
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Don't flame me for this one, but I have a set of guages from Glow Shift on eBay, cost me $170 out the door, so far they work perfectly, and while the wiring diagram was all screwed up since they were made out of the country, I figured them out no problem.