Is anyone runing a single turbo with a external wastegate If so what gate and how did you install it just looking for ways to keep down backpressure.

 

Is there anybody that makes a wastgate stiff enough for 45 pounds of boost. Anyone with twins how much do your external wastegates let go at.

 

Isn't your B1-2 Wastegated or was that someone else? Is it not working well? Also, have you checked your TIP/drive pressures? Just finished testing mine and would love to compare.

My KSB-1 is not wastegated and am heading in direction of external WG also. Rod, at Wildcat is a proponent of the externals and is the only one I know with experience.

RJ

 

My KSB-1 is not wastegated and am heading in direction of external WG also. Rod, at Wildcat is a proponent of the externals and is the only one I know with experience.

Why not talk to Ken Diaz, the producer of the turbo about one of his wastegated housing for the B-1.

Jim

 

I got rid of my b1-2 and is was wastegated i am trying a holset charger that isn,t wastgated and like it much better but i am having high peak drive pressures.

 

I have tried Ken, twice. If you can get him to come to the phone, your one of the few that can.

Also, from my readings, external WG seems more efficient, keep unused hot gas away from turbine. Also, usable on twins (if & when), and would, I think, be cheaper than wastegated housing from Ken, which reqiures a customized downpipe due to extra length. (been there & done that with my KSB1-2).

Still just in research stage for external WG. Would be interested in your thoughts.

RJ

 

Try this site out.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...rbomaster.html

 

More Power,

There are several externals that will work great for what you're wanting to do, and they should be a lot cheaper than the new housing. The downside is that you're going to have to pull your manifold, drill a hole in it and weld on a short up-pipe and flange as well as fab up a tube from the wastegate to the downpipe. It just requires a lot more work, but is certainly doable. I have had great luck with Tial gates, and you can usually find the 38mm for around $250 with the flanges.

John

 

Winkle
Turbo Master is excellent product...have used them in past.
However, More Power & I have non-wastegated turbine housings...nothing to attach turbo Master to!

Banshee - Will the 38 mm handle 45 psi? Does it matter how far down the downpipe you go with the by-pass?

RJ

 

do you run into any problems with the split in the manifold? since cylinders 1,2,3 are in one runner and cylinders 4,5,6 are in a second, would the unbalance of pressure create any problems? or should you weld a short pipe to each side, splice them together and run the wastegate off of that? just trying to learn something new here so help me out please.

thanks, Pat

 

RJ,

The 38 should be just fine for wanting to gate a single turbo. The flappers on the internally wastegated 16 cm2 housing for a HX-40 is smaller than 1", and I could keep my boost under 42 psi in even the coldest air around here at the 470 hp level. On hot days I would see 39 psi, so I did have a little boost creep going on (the w.g. was a tad small), but it wasn't bad. Not only is the 38 much larger than the stock HX-40 internal, but they are more efficient IMO, so it should work just fine. If you're looking to go to twins later on, however, the 38 probably won't be enough if you have a non-gated housing on top. In that case you'd probably want to step up to the 44 or even the 46. In my setup I run the 38 and the larger internal on the 40, and I can gate so much gas that I can actually stop the HX-40 and make it a restriction. In other words, I can set it so that I can push almost 50 psi with the bottom, and see less than that, around 42, in the intake manifold... . For a single app it will be fine. As for where in the downpipe, it shouldn't really matter... wherever it mates up best. I would try to angle it in to help the flow, though.

Pat,

When you drill the hole in the manifold you basically drill it right in the center, just in front of the flange that the turbo mates up to. When you drill in (I used a 1.5" hole saw) you will drill through the outer shell and into that center rib. You go deep enough so that only the center rib is holding the top on, the beat it out with a punch and grind everything smooth with a die grinder. Once that is done you will have a hole from the front 3 to the back 3, but the wall is 90% still there... the hole is just in the roof. From there you weld in a short section of 1.5" OD pipe and the flange to the external WG welds on top of that. A picture would probably explain that better, but hopefully that makes sense. I don't notice any problems with cutting the wall like that. Spoolup was drastically improved for me, but most of that was with the WG settings. The trickiest part of the whole deal is just making sure your pipe and WG clear both the turbine housing and the valve cover.

John

 

Thanks everyone for all the info i will be calling tial tomorrow and hopefully the 38 will work for my setup around 470 hp.

 

Thanks for great info...as always.

Not clear on one point...Any reason not to go with 44 mm on a single? Just in case I go twins down the road.

RJ

 

RJ,

You can run a 44 or 46 with a single charger, but there are a couple of things to consider.

1) Cost. The big units are quite a bit more money than the smaller unit. I guess buying once is better than doing it now and again later, though.

2) Much more important than cost, wastegate flutter. When the valve is too big it has the ability to relieve pressure too fast and will begin to flutter open and closed. When being run on a single at 45 psi the gate isn't having to bypass a whole lot of gas, but only enough to drop the boost 5-10 psi. When you set the gate to 45 psi the idea is for the manifold pressure to get to 45, push the gate open, and hold it open to stop the boost rise. When the gate is too big you can get a fluttering condition because the gate will open, pass enough exhaust gas to drop the boost pressure thus closing the gate. The process then starts over with the gate opening and closing or fluttering. It's much like a rain flap on a stack going "Tink Tink Tink..." at idle. I'm not saying it will happen, only it can happen. The big units work just fine with twins because you set it much lower, so it is working hard trying to keep the top turbo at say 20 psi vs. 45. The wastegate manufacturer might have some reccomendations on how big is too big.

John

 

Vendor for Tial says strongest they have is combining a Big Blue Spring with a Small Blue for net of 21 psi? Had call from Greg at Tial but we keep missing each other...thought you might know if this is accurate? Their web page shows about the same info.

RJ