So I looked at a 98 12v today. Nice truck and I might end up buying it. I need to know a few things.

Whats the best plate? (right now it has a #5)

Best injectors for big power? (435s?, DDP 4s?)

4k or 5k GSK?

When would I need studs?

What do you do to a starwheel?

What do you to to an AFC?

Any weakness for 12vs?

I know 7100s are the better pumps but what does a 98 auto have?

All info appreciated - Chris

 

98 auto's have a 180 pump, but it's still a capable pump. Injectors I would go with ddp4's several people on here run them including me (also bobcat and he has a 180 pump so watch one of his sledpulling videos) I would grind a 100 plate and install 4k springs. 5 k is only for sled pulling and in an auto your not going to need it. the afc is on top of the cover you take off to get to the plate it has a big allen head plug that has to be removed. under it is a starwheel you loosen it and it brings in preboost fuel earlier.

 

also slide the AFC housing forward and put a thin washer on the front of the AFC diaphragm to get more rack travel.

 

Here u go... im sure uve read this before..

THIS is just to get a little more power out of your ram. You can do serveral things, i see you are getting gauges, and you have an air intake on the way. which is good. Now this is an into to the main power source of the ram, Your P7100 Pump, and what you can tweak on it for more power. You can also time it, but thats advanced, well at least for me... use this as an intro more than anything.. I tried my best to explain it.... here goes... and

I meant to say post.... sorry.....

Here is an intro the link to the pic might not work, but u can see it as banks plate in my gallery.....

to get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix.

A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my explanation....

Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1

More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. If you read my literal "dissertation" of a post hehehehehehe. it tells u the procedure on how to do it. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown soleniod (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those ull notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move teh shutdown soleniod out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple adjustment, u just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. If you dont have gauges, dont set it full forward, If you do have gauges set it forward for a 30 or so rwhp increase!

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it.PS having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto.....if you are going to play hard, in most cases if you just want a modest power gain, just get a 10 plate, set it a lil bit forward, and a GSK will wake up your truck. In the stock position its easily drivable and fun as well.

Waste gate, if i was good with pictures id put one up for you, but im sure you know what the wastegate looks like, that head looking deal, it is usually hooked to a rubber or similar airline, you want a little more boost? You can get a longer hose or pinch it up, There is a thread, i dont member where tho, where it shows someone improperly blocking the wastgate with a screw.... Well that aint good.. Anyways

Also make sure you get the KDP done on that truck as well... Not hard to do, look in my previous posts, KDP Report Using TST kit, or somethin similar to that......

PS this is cut and paste of other posts, sorry if its redundant....

Best of luck and hope that this helps..

Tx

 

Now to answer your questions, it all depends on what u want for power, towing, or anything else. My plate preference is a 100, but if you want all out power at all times, a 0 plate would be the best bet. If you want something you can tow with and still give a good kick, the 10 plate will suffice just right...

Best Injectors for Big power, id say go with some customs EDM's if ur gonna go extreme. If not, you can go with 370s for a bargain, but do expect haze at idle, and some surging (nothing u cannot cure with governer spring tension and throttle return springs) But they are a nice kick over stock... 435s are apparently super smooth, But the DDP 4's have a rep that speaks for itself, and many major BOMBers are running them.... DDP 4's are my next step up...

4K or 5K GSK? id go with a four unless ur gonna severely build up the bottom end. I remember reading that at 4100 rpms if u can get there u can destroy some serious stuff. Although a 5K GSK would be best suited for Sled pulling and other extreme needs, i see no need for anything higher than a 4K for most applications...

Studs, you would need studs if you plan to push boost numbers constantly over the 45-50 psi range. At this range o ringing the head, and a marine gasket (10 over) should not be out of the question either....

Starwheel, think of the starwheel as the fine adjust for smoke and low end fuel. The more open the starwheel is, the more low end fuel it allows to have, the tighter it is (the inverse of the above) the less fuel it allows early on, There is not much performance gain except on the lower end.

AFC, well you can adjust the plate positioning, as well, and push the AFC housing towards the front of the engine too, Other than that, Forrest Nearing has the AFC pretty much covered...

12V weaknesses? Id say almost none the 12V has more weaknesses in the body and truck than the actual cummins engine..

Hope this helps! Sorry to double quote ur post..

Rick

 

BIG help guys thanks!

 

Make sure it doesnt have a 53 block!!!!!

Jake

 

I didnt know that there were 98 12v 53s Where is the stamp located again?

 

darn... my 98 12valve is a 53 block but i heard the 12 valves dont have problems with it being a 53. its located on the front of the engine, on the left bottom side on the block

 

Oh trust me they have the same problem as the 24v's, its the same block...ive bought 2 cracked core 12v 53 blocks...

Jake