Hey Guy's,well I finally installed my DD2's and Edge Comp. box and I have to say WOW I just can't wipe the grin off my face. I have not tapped the pump wire yet as my stock clutch is slipping at #2 setting on the comp. I only launched a couple of times before I noticed the clutch letting go. I just ordered a SBC Con OFE from Piers and was wondering if you guys had any pointers on the install. I guess I'll have to get my hands on a alignment tool first off and line up a good machine shop to reface the flywheel. Any tricks I need to know before hand??? I'm really looking forward to seeing what this baby can do once the clutch is in and the wire is hooked up. Replies greatly appreciated.

 

Be sure the machine shop indexes off the crankshaft mounting surface when they reface the flywheel. Just to be sure, use a dial indicator on the flywheel face after mounting and rotate the engine to ensure you have good runout.

Ask me how I know!

Rusty

 

The clutch come with an alignment tool.

I used two tranny jacks, and did not seperate the transfer case. I don t think I could have done it with one jack. If your doing it on jack stands......good luck, and have alot of help.

Since your there.....take a close look at the carrier bearing too.

 

I used a semi tranny jack and left everything together. There was a rent-all place that had them for $30 for the weekend. Made the job so much easier.

 

I took two 3/8" X 6" bolts and cut the heads off to use as a guide fo the bell housing. I had hell getting my trans to budge the last inch. I then used 4 3/8" X 2 1/2" bolts to slowly work the bell housing closer. Be careful not to over tighten one, as you may crack the housing. Just use a few turns on each and keep working around until you get the housing close enough to the block where you can use the original bolts. Hopefully you won't have this problem like I did. Took me a few tries, few hours and a few beers to figure out I wasn't getting that last inch by hand...

 

I have had to mate the trans a few times and I can tell you this, if it is lined up it will go in by hand. If not it won't. Pull it in with bolts and you stand a 50/50 chance of pushing the pilot bearing through the flywheel. Wonder how I know that....

 

Yep. Once you get the transmission started on the input shaft (the last inch or two), just have your helper turn the engine over with a ratchet on the harmonic damper bolts while you push lightly on the rear of the tranny. When it's lined up, it will **pop** into place with very little effort.

brandon.

 

Your clutch should come with an alignment tool and a pressure plate. You should have everything you need but the jack and the time. I laid on my creeper behind the tranny and walked and rocked it in place with my feet. Can we say multitalented!!! I used a semi tranny jack. Those things are sweet. 3 axis tilting and a swivel jack handle. Let me warn you: The OFE is a stout clutch, but it will slip the first few times you drive it. I called Peter at SB and accused him of selling me a junk clutch. He told me to give it some time. I could just see the grin on his face. Boy was he right. It slipped for the first week, but now I can do a 3rd gear dump with no slippage. I had a 6500 lb. tractor on a 16 foot trailer and broke loose in 3rd gear... That has got to be some stress on the clutch. Take your time and use a torque spec chart. Good luck to you and yours.

 

Thanks, for all your input guy's Will take a Stab at it next week when my clutch comes in.

 

I did 3 (count 'em THREE) clutches in my first 97 I had.

Get a good size tranny jack (semi is preferable, but mine wasn't THAT big) and one or two buddies to help and things will go great.

 

It's a job doing it alone with no condrete floor. Three times so far.

 

Change the rear main seal while you're in there. It would sure suck if it started leaking in two months!

 

Do ya know what the seal # is for the rear main as I can pick one up before hand. That's a good idea but is it necessary??