jaconst

I found this clutch on ebay, they have several and the buy it now is $230 plus the $24 shipping. I don't need a clutch yet. I have someone to put it in. does it sound like everything I would need is included?? when I had my truck in to Diesel Injection Service they quoted something like $1200-$1300 for a clutch and flywheel set 13" plus $500 installation. Does this SACHS clutch sound like what I need?? thank you all

here is the discription on the auction:


New in-the-box clutch set by SACHS/BORG&BECK, Part # K70119-01. This matched clutch set includes the cover assembly, non-asbestos clutch disc, throwout bearing, spine lube pack and the pilot tool (pilot bushing is included in some set #'s). Plate size is 12-1/4"-OD, 10 splines, 1-1/4" spline diameter. Fits the 1994 thru 1997 DODGE RAM 2500 and 3500 pickup with the 6cyl. 360" (5.9L) Cummings Turbo Diesel and the 10cyl. 488" (8.0L) gas. List price on this set is $459.88. We will ship to the lower 48 states only and S&H is a flat $24.00, via FEDEX Ground or UPS (our option). We ship from our warehouse and our supplier's warehouse same or next business day. It is possible that, on rare occasions, this part number might be out of stock and that it has to be ordered from SACHS, in which case delivery could be as long as 2 weeks (please check with us). We have access to every SACHS part number, so if you don't see what you need, e-mail us.

gunracer1

as long as you keep the power stockish it will be fine.

jaconst

within the next 1-2 years I plan on KDP, gauges, #10 fuel plate, injectors ect. my goal is somewhere around 600-750 ft.lbs torque and whatever the horse would be maybe 300-350 or so I am more interested in the torque and throttle response
I have 155k miles on and I average 35k or so a year

ddestruel

Dont waste your money order a south bend ceramic clutch. Not jumpy or clattery works really well holds alot of ponies especially if you tow.

if you half-*** it this time around you'll end up paying the price as soon as you start to bomb the thing. Do it right the first time that way you have room to move when you start adding HP.

$250 now might sound like a good deal and once you start bombing it might last a little while lets say 6 months maybe 30k miles maybe not even that long. but hindsight is that $250 could be put towards a better quality clutch $800-900 that will last you alot longer 2-3 years easily 100k miles depending on your style after installing mods you are talking about, not mention the time it will spend barely being worked in a stock application.

Something to be said for buying quality the first time and not spending money on the same thing two times.

Dusty

I chinzed the first time and paid the price as soon as i started modding, dropped the doe the second time and since then i just keep adding different items, 370 injectors for awhile ect and the clutch had 150k on it and still helds tight just went to a new clutch recently, 30k ago, because i had one on the shelf and i had the tranny down to fix a seal.

gunracer1

that cluth will never hold 370s and a #10

jaconst

I will heed the advice I have received and pass on the clutch. when I do go should I get a 13" diameter?? TIA I just have to priase this wonderful site. and God bless all

Got Smoke?

Yeah go ahead and pay the extra for the 13" clutch. I have a friend who's a member of TDR that has a 99 24V with a DDUFM, DD3 injectors, and a Dodgezilla turbo and he can slip a regular size Con OFE (rated @ 450! ).

I just went ahead and bit the bullet and installed a 13" Con FE. I know I'm never gonna see 550RWHP, but I figured why install another clutch if I can help it. I've got PDR 370's & a #10 full forward right now and it just 's at them!

ddestruel

definately go 13" the 13" disk has more dampening thanthe 12 1/4" therefore you wont be as prone to rip the center hub out.

jaconst

what were you guys paying for the clutch and labor ? what manufacturer do you guys reccommend?? 1300 for clutch and flywheel not including labor just seems a little high to me. TIA God Bless

ddestruel

you get 200 or 300 back when you send them your flywheel or you can just order the clutch and then take your wheel down to a machine shop and for $20 they will drill and tap it to fit also. 900-1000 is not out of the question when you consider how much HP and TORQUE you are putting through that disk, not very many companies are willing to produce or stand behind thier products in those kind of conditions and also not very many products stay together.

I ripped the hubs out of three LUK conversion disks rated for 450HP 800 ft/lb (so they said) and at that time i wasnt pushing those kind of numbers at all nor was i abusing the truck. one disk made it out the shop door and 40 miles down the road before it spit its guts out. Luckiliy they warrantied it but not long after that they changed thier warranty policy. No trailers over 8000lbs they said that it was the weight causing the hubs to disintigrate . BS it was pi$$ poor casting tried to save a buck with cheap materials. I have since changed clutch companies, i needed something reliable that i knew could take the power for 100k miles plus and not rip apart.