Bersaglieri

Alright guys I'm trying to track down a good turbo for my truck. My mods are in my signature and I am looking for a turbo that would cool my truck down some and maybe some injectors. I also want something I can use for a compound or twin setup down the road. Nothing crazy, something like a quick spool street/towing setup. I have a stock HX35 on the truck and a HT3B on the shelf. I have the budget of the local Civil War veterans bingo hall. So here are the options let me know what you guys think. Options are from most affordable to OMG.

35/40 Hybrid - 60mm wheel and compressor blade - $275 from HTT - Help cool things for a little while - HT3B could be utilized - current exhaust would work. Easy upgrade.

HX40 - $400 locally - 18cm exhaust housing - brand new - would cool stuff no problem, but laggy SOB. Shafts

S300 or Variant - Better Schwitzer design and shafts - would cool everything - $900 [turbo] + $170 [downpipe] = most expensive item. Although I could use a better than HT3B S400 bottom turbo to match. But would break the bank.

So what's everyone think? I am feeling the hybrid at least for now, and then the 23cm HT3B and homemade piping this summer.

-Dustin-

HOHN

I personally think the 35/40 hybrids are a bad idea-- the compressor is far too big for the turbine. That said, plenty of guys love them.

Pairing the hybrid with a 23cm HT3B will create a high drive pressure monster. You can do much better, imo.

Keep in mind that what makes a good single turbo and what makes a good top turbo for later twins are often very different things.

If the HX40 has the 18 housing, it should last because it won't be treated as violently as the smaller housing can do-- with barks, surges, etc.

I'd recommend just trying a larger housing for now.

JMO

Bersaglieri

So would I be better off just waiting to add the HT3B to the stock HX35? Or is that no a good idea either?

What would you recommend Hohn? I honestly want to learn and understand what I should do and why. I am interested in your input. If you think a S300 then doing a S400 would be a wise investment then that makes the cost worth it. I just dont want to invest that money if a HX35/HT3B would serve my purpose just as well for less money. I was going to try and get away with running a stock gasket and bolts with a lower psi street/towing twin setup. Is this a pipe dream?

Can you give me a lamens term definition of high drive pressures?

Main reason I was considering the Hybrid is since my HX35's fins are slightly damaged, nothing major, but enough to make me want to do something about it. I figured it would be a good investment into the twin setup.

-Dustin-

HOHN

An HX35/HT3B will work nicely for what you are seeking. It's a little "old school" but it will still work better all around than any single turbo.

What *I* would do in your situation is get a larger wastegated housing for the HX35 (14cm instead of the 12 you now have). Then I build twins using parts from Rip Rook-- he had all the things you need to build a set using those turbos. www.sourceautomotive.biz

In layman's terms, drive pressure is just the pressure in your exhaust system that's "driving" the turbo(s). A more scientific name is TIP or Turbine Inlet Pressure.

Ideally this pressure is as low as possible, and lower than boost pressure. But with small housings on the turbos, this pressure can creep higher than boost pressure, and then skyrocket MUCH higher than boost pressure. This is bad, as your engine is basically breathing in exhaust when that happens.

It makes a lot more sense to me to build twins using the existing turbo than to mess with replacing that stock turbo and THEN building twins. The stock turbo works very well as a top turbo in a compound (twin) setup-- it just needs a larger housing and some enhanced wastegating because you'll be throwing more air at it than it can swallow, so you need to be able to bypass a good bit of that flow.

Rebuilding the HX35 is pretty easy to do, and not too expensive at all.

HTT has the parts.

www.htturbo.com


jh

Diesel Dummy

well i like my hybrid 35, now it has a 14cm non WG housing and does a good job but still to small for rv's and my adrenaline.

GFB

Don't forget to budget studs and an o-ring job if you go with twins.

Bersaglieri

Revisting this I'm wanting a good single charger to use for a year or so. Would a 35/40 with a 12cm^ be better than a straight HX35 with a 14cm^ housing? How about both or a s300? I'm wanting to add 370's and 4000 GSK and be able to manage EGT's. Thoughts? I'm hoping to maintain stock timing to save my headgasket for another day.

-Dustin-

GFB

I think a 35/40 hybrid with 14cm housing would be decent upgrade for an auto truck. I wouldn't recommend it for a manual truck after hearing stories of broken shafts and knowing I barked my 35/14 all the time and not on purpose.

Don Wagner

S200G and an S300 is a more efficient set of twins than an HX35 and an HT3B. I have put every version of the HX/HY/HE turbocharger through more than it should ever handle and faired quite well, the cost is just not worth the gain to upgrade them.

CMooreBLKSMK

If all you have is a zero plate for now the 60mm upgrade would be a decent option. Thats pretty close to what I run and I'm fairly happy with it. I'm running the stock 12cm housing and been debating if I should get a 14 for it. But decided not to put any more money into this turbo. My EGT's can get a little high if I stay on it hard for a good amount of time, but very controllable. I don't regret my purchase but I always want to go bigger, so I think that will hold me off for now until I can afford a Garrett or something similar, to use in a later twin setup.

Gillet turbo offers the 60mm uprade cheaper that htt in case you didn't know

(All this ball bearing turbo talk lately has got me fired up to try one out)

Don Wagner

I think everyone interested in purchasing a ball bearing turbocharger should realize they have no side load dampening ability. Also price a standard rebuild on any ball bearing unit before purchasing it, you may be suprised. There is a reason Turbonetics uses a front oil bearing and a rear ball bearing.

CMooreBLKSMK

Side load dampening ability? Reason for front oil and rear ball bearing? Now I'm really confused. More info please.

Don Wagner

The lack of ability to place side loading on the shaft bearings adds abuse to the thrust bearing, a dual ball bearing design in a diesel application that sees high pressure ratios this becomes an issue. Using a front oil bearing prevents this by allowing side loading on the compressor side of the turbine shaft.

Sinbadd

On the Garrett site it says these turbos come with "a Garrett exclusive ball bearing cartridge for unbeatable response, efficiency, and durability. Elimination of the thrust bearing eliminates Failures at elevated boost levels"

Don Wagner

I was describing Turbonetics, it has been awhile since the Garrett stage. Turbonetics uses a front ceramic roller thrust bearing and a conventional rear oil float bearing. I would recommend this style over a dual ball bearing turbocharger for diesel applications cost considered.