Has many people switched over. I have a 2001 with 57k on it and considering the switch but wondering if I should just stick with Rotella. Any experience with it, if so good and bad issues, better or worse for Turbo? Should I use the same weight with it and what mileage intervals would be okay?
Thanks.

 

Don't know a thing about Royal Purple, but I switched to Amsoil with 85K on the clock without any problems.

 

good thread...I'm interested in Royal Purple as well. I'd like to swap my diffs and Tcase to their synthetic as well as the engine oil. Anybody got any info on what weights and how much (like 3 quarts or 2 gallaons etc...) of their oil for each application? thanks

 

RP makes great oils and lubes.

Avoid their syncromax lube for the NV5600 though-- it's too thin.

Other than that, their gear oils and engine oils are first rate.

IMO, redline has better additive packages, though-- and it shows in the cost.

jh

 

I run RP in my 93. It swithed over ok with 165k on the odo. If you dont mind the cost its just alittle added protection. On the first change I ran it for 6k, I might go 8k on this change.

 

Synthetic oils do not support soot as well as conventional oil. If you are heavily fueled or heavily timed, your soot build up is already faster than stock. Soot is really abrasive and is basically re deposited which is not great for turbos and other high wear areas. If you have a bypass setup or what ever to take the soot out of the oil, then I guess it would be fine.

I personally use a blend of synthetic in the winter to aid in startup, but still have at least 50% conventional rotella to carry the soot.


All of this comes back to the fact that most guys' cummins will last longer than they want to keep it anyway, so why spend the dollars on expensive oil. Now if you can figure out your break even point due to higher mileage, etc, then you might be able to justify it in the tranny, or t case, but in the engine, I wouldn't waste my time.

FYI your rear diff comes stock with a synthetic gear lube. All manual trannies come with synthetic lube as well. And the new atf 4+ might as well be synthetic.

 

Darn it, i wish I would have known this before using the RP in my six spd. I never was happy with the shifting after changing to it, but now that my master cyl. is leaking, that might be some of it too.

 

What's the source of your claim that synthetics don't carry soot as well? I'd like to see the explanation, because on its face that seems to be invalid.

Base oils don't carry the soot-- the additive packages do. As far as I can tell, the base oil, whether Group II, Group III, Group IV or Group V doesn't have much affect if any on soot dispersal.

The only connection I can see (as remote as it may be) is the higher polarity of certain Group V bases stocks (esters like Polyester and Polyol ester) might reduce the ability of the soot dispersal additives if those additives depend on molecular polarity for effectiveness.

Got a link for me?

JH

 

This came from that phone call I made to HTT about two months back asking about turbos and such. He had just come from a seminar put on by borg warner and they fielded a few questions and one of them was about oil. Borg Warner told everyone there that conventional oil was better for long turbo life due to soot carrying abilities. Now whether it's the base oil or the additives package, i have no idea.

This is also one of the reasons HTT quit carrying garrett ceramic ball bearing turbos. They didn't feel they wanted to warranty turbos with high failure probability due to sooty oil.

I am by no means a chemical engineer.

 

OK, I seem to remember hearing something about that.

I expect better from B-W, and better from HTT to repeat such nonsense. Soot dispersal has everything to do with additives, not base stocks. There's no logical reason to claim that synthetics are inferior to this! Some synthetics will be better than some petro oils and vice versa.

The connection of soot dispersal of syn vs petro to the decision to drop the BB chargers is a stretch,imo.


I suspect it has more to disparaging the BB turbos.

Heck, look at the warranty on the T-nectics units!

 

bypass filters, soot sucker, etc too take all that soot out of your super nice synthetic oil.

 

I think only TP filters can actually remove soot, but I'm not sure.


The soot issue is why I use an oil additive called LC20 by LubeControl. I've seen this stuff DISSOLVE carbon and junk in the engine and suspend it in the oil. It's softens and melts soot and carbon-based deposits in the engine and eliminates their ability to abrade.

I have no affiliation with LCD, inc other than that of a happy customer. I found out about them over on Bobistheoilguy and decided to give their product a shot after the universally glowing reviews on that website.

I've personally seen it completely remove varnish and engine buildup in less than 5K miles, and making the oil VERY dark in the process. Dark oil is good oil, because it means the oil is doing its job and suspending gunk instead of letting it deposit in the engine. Oil color tells you almost NOTHING about an oil's performance, but I'd choose a darker one over an oil that "stayed clean" anytime.

JMO

 

I was getting ready to put royal purple in front and rear diffs. could someone tell me what weight gear oil goes in front and rear diffs. factory service manual says it is 75w90 rear and 75w140 front. is it okay to put 75w90 in front diff.

 

Either weight will work just fine in either diff.

The heavier stuff is recommended if you load the truck heavily. Otherwise, use the thinner stuff.

jmo

 

Are you going to use a bypass filter? I think those high end synthetics are a waste of money for engine oil unless you extend your OCI enough to make up for the cost, but then you're risking running the oil for too long. You might find this interesting:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...gonew=1#UNREAD