Is this the right Carter Pump?
#1
Is this the right Carter Pump?
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul....asp&x=26&y=11
Now when I go to install this. What do I have to do?
Do I have to take the stock lift pump wires and extend them to the carter pump?
What gauge wire should I use?
I have been reading about a relay too. How do Iwire this in with the pump?
Thanks
Dima
Now when I go to install this. What do I have to do?
Do I have to take the stock lift pump wires and extend them to the carter pump?
What gauge wire should I use?
I have been reading about a relay too. How do Iwire this in with the pump?
Thanks
Dima
#4
Originally posted by Clunk
I've been using one since 9\04 with no problems.
I don't know the plumbing or wiring on a '99 so I can't be specific about the install...sorry pal.
I've been using one since 9\04 with no problems.
I don't know the plumbing or wiring on a '99 so I can't be specific about the install...sorry pal.
#5
Registered User
That's the same as the oem pump, it just has standard npt threads and no fancy molded elec connection on the bottom.
That's the pump I have been using since 2001. They work ok, I have had several only last a few days right out of the box so get a spare. The one I have right now has lasted quite a while. You dont use any of the hardware included!!!! The pump will mount right in the stock mount.
What you do is cut the wires off close to the oem oem pump that allows you to use the stock connector. Get some ring terminals to hook to the pump above. Don't cross up the + or- or the pump will run backwards. You will have to cut the ends off the fuel lines going into and out of the oem pump and get some 3/8 nipples and use rubber fuel line to connect pump to hard lines. Remove the three studs from the oem pump and put them on the other pump. There is quite a little work to do the first initial changeover but very easy to change after that. I can do a swap in about 20 min in good weather .
That's the pump I have been using since 2001. They work ok, I have had several only last a few days right out of the box so get a spare. The one I have right now has lasted quite a while. You dont use any of the hardware included!!!! The pump will mount right in the stock mount.
What you do is cut the wires off close to the oem oem pump that allows you to use the stock connector. Get some ring terminals to hook to the pump above. Don't cross up the + or- or the pump will run backwards. You will have to cut the ends off the fuel lines going into and out of the oem pump and get some 3/8 nipples and use rubber fuel line to connect pump to hard lines. Remove the three studs from the oem pump and put them on the other pump. There is quite a little work to do the first initial changeover but very easy to change after that. I can do a swap in about 20 min in good weather .
#6
I get 14-15 lbs. idle, 12-13 cruising and 9 psi WOT w/comp on 5x5 with stock injectors and drilled banjo bolts and fittings.
I'll need to try the non-banjo type fittings before I put bigger injectors on it and may even have to replace the Carter with a Holley pump to keep the pressure good....my choice.
Before I bought my truck, I frequented this site regularly for info and determined which truck to look for and how to keep it alive... I really need to put up a "thanks" post...anyway, I bought a fuel pressure test kit from the parts store and went looking for a truck. After looking at Cornbread Red, I checked the lift pump fuel pressure with my handy kit and it just did pass muster so I bought the truck. Since I already had this test kit, I modified it to be my in cab lift pump monitoring guage.
I screwed the fitting onto the Schrader Valve on the IP, took the 0-100 guage off, lengthened the line with 4 long grease gun extension lines and correct fittings sealed with Permatex non-hardening sealer and screwed on a US Gage 0-30 pressure guage. If the guage needle gets too erratic, I'll install the needle valve into the plumbing but it's tolerable right now.
Because the guage kit also has a bleeder on the assembly, it's handy for relieving air at fuel filter changes for quick engine starts.
It ain't purty but it works well. Gotta picture of it posted.
I'll need to try the non-banjo type fittings before I put bigger injectors on it and may even have to replace the Carter with a Holley pump to keep the pressure good....my choice.
Before I bought my truck, I frequented this site regularly for info and determined which truck to look for and how to keep it alive... I really need to put up a "thanks" post...anyway, I bought a fuel pressure test kit from the parts store and went looking for a truck. After looking at Cornbread Red, I checked the lift pump fuel pressure with my handy kit and it just did pass muster so I bought the truck. Since I already had this test kit, I modified it to be my in cab lift pump monitoring guage.
I screwed the fitting onto the Schrader Valve on the IP, took the 0-100 guage off, lengthened the line with 4 long grease gun extension lines and correct fittings sealed with Permatex non-hardening sealer and screwed on a US Gage 0-30 pressure guage. If the guage needle gets too erratic, I'll install the needle valve into the plumbing but it's tolerable right now.
Because the guage kit also has a bleeder on the assembly, it's handy for relieving air at fuel filter changes for quick engine starts.
It ain't purty but it works well. Gotta picture of it posted.
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#8
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I use the CRT-P4600HP as a pusher located in front of the tank. It puts out additional 8 PSI. Together with the stock LP i get 19 - 20 PSI at idle, 15 PSI running down the road with no load and 12 - 13 PSI WOT. I replaced the fuel lines with -8an and have no banjo's so no restrictions in the fuel system. Also run 85 HP EDM's and a comp.
Brad
Brad
#10
WOAH!!!!! Where are you guys getting these #'s from? If my stock LP is going bad, do I have to rep[lace the stock one AND get the carter pump? I want top run the carter as close to the tank as possible.
Does anyone ahve directions on how to install a new pump closer to the tank? Including how to wire it?
Thanks
DIma
Does anyone ahve directions on how to install a new pump closer to the tank? Including how to wire it?
Thanks
DIma
#11
It's OK, you have some choices.
Some people prefer to run a a pusher pump setup to pump fuel to the stock lift pump which increases the total flow and pressure but the extra pump requires an additional power source because the stock wiring reportedly can't handle 2 pumps together... personally, I don't know.
Other folks prefer the pump/filter process found on many heavy duty diesel generator/marine/heavy equipment applications called a FASS. In addition to removing dirt, they also remove air from the fuel so the injector pump sees wet fuel with no air bubbles at a steady pressure. As you can guess, foam cannot cool anything and our injector pump requires fuel to lubricate and COOL the innards. The FASS system does that by design.
If I used my truck over the road, when it positively-absolutely has to get there on time, I'd get a FASS ... period. Time is money.
Since all my trips are short and since I can install my backup pump in 10 minutes, I prefer 1 pump by the fuel tank. I keep 1/4 tank or greater and my lift pump fuel pressure doesn't sag without reason so I believe I'm keeping the foam at a minimum. Right now I'm borderline on pressure though and the addition of bigger injectors are likely to make a bigger pump necessary at which time I'll install a Holley.
Some people prefer to run a a pusher pump setup to pump fuel to the stock lift pump which increases the total flow and pressure but the extra pump requires an additional power source because the stock wiring reportedly can't handle 2 pumps together... personally, I don't know.
Other folks prefer the pump/filter process found on many heavy duty diesel generator/marine/heavy equipment applications called a FASS. In addition to removing dirt, they also remove air from the fuel so the injector pump sees wet fuel with no air bubbles at a steady pressure. As you can guess, foam cannot cool anything and our injector pump requires fuel to lubricate and COOL the innards. The FASS system does that by design.
If I used my truck over the road, when it positively-absolutely has to get there on time, I'd get a FASS ... period. Time is money.
Since all my trips are short and since I can install my backup pump in 10 minutes, I prefer 1 pump by the fuel tank. I keep 1/4 tank or greater and my lift pump fuel pressure doesn't sag without reason so I believe I'm keeping the foam at a minimum. Right now I'm borderline on pressure though and the addition of bigger injectors are likely to make a bigger pump necessary at which time I'll install a Holley.
#12
So how do I wire an added pump? I want to install the carter when IG et back from Tahoe this weekend. I was goign to use both the stocker and the carter pump. How woould I wire up the carter pump?
Thanks
Dima
Thanks
Dima
#14
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Join Date: Jul 2005
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Is anyone else running the Carter p4601hp pump? How did you wire it up? Does it fit in the stock location? Will the Carter handle a Drag Comp and 100hp sticks? I haven't really looked closely at a stock lp, but is the 4601 pretty close? Thanks
#15
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Topock, on West Coast of Arizona
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I tried hooking a p4601HP up pushing thru the stock pump and the pressure went over 30psi on my guage, then the stock lp sprung a leak!!
I took the stock lp off and ran the 4601 straight to the filter.
I ran a #10 wire from the battery to a relay and then to the pump. the relay is triggered by the hot wire for the stock lp.
I run about 20-22 psi at idle and 18-20 at 70mph
I took the stock lp off and ran the 4601 straight to the filter.
I ran a #10 wire from the battery to a relay and then to the pump. the relay is triggered by the hot wire for the stock lp.
I run about 20-22 psi at idle and 18-20 at 70mph