Replacing stereo components
#16
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IMO the brown bread is just as good or better than dynamat , i have worked with both
I sealed my doors oof for better midbass performance like the pic( I didn't take any pics of my own)..................
just one layer on the door worked fine
I got lots left on the roll( I bought a shop roll) and plan to get to the back wall someday
I also have a friend who used the l-comp stuff in his for inder the carpet ........ I was very impressed how well it absorbed the soud and plan to try some someday too ................
I sealed my doors oof for better midbass performance like the pic( I didn't take any pics of my own)..................
just one layer on the door worked fine
I got lots left on the roll( I bought a shop roll) and plan to get to the back wall someday
I also have a friend who used the l-comp stuff in his for inder the carpet ........ I was very impressed how well it absorbed the soud and plan to try some someday too ................
#17
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Great, Mike!
As with ALL things truck, I'm now getting sucked into the sound deadening void. Hmmmm...funny how one thing leads to another.
I'm currently researching a product called eDead v.1.SE. It appears to be an aluminum-backed adhesive matting that's 70mils thick--just like Dynamat. However, this stuff is only $1.25 per sq ft, so a 60 sq ft roll only costs $75.00.
Compared to the 4 sq ft roll I bought at Best Buy [$35.00], this is an EXTREMELY good deal.
Anyway, I was very impressed with the Dynamat during my front install, so I'm dreaming big dreams about the doors, the hood, the front and rear firewalls, the roof...
Have a great day,
Bill
As with ALL things truck, I'm now getting sucked into the sound deadening void. Hmmmm...funny how one thing leads to another.
I'm currently researching a product called eDead v.1.SE. It appears to be an aluminum-backed adhesive matting that's 70mils thick--just like Dynamat. However, this stuff is only $1.25 per sq ft, so a 60 sq ft roll only costs $75.00.
Compared to the 4 sq ft roll I bought at Best Buy [$35.00], this is an EXTREMELY good deal.
Anyway, I was very impressed with the Dynamat during my front install, so I'm dreaming big dreams about the doors, the hood, the front and rear firewalls, the roof...
Have a great day,
Bill
#18
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if components take so much juice. Would a head unit with 26watt rms be enough power to drive them? I dont listen to loud music only loud enough to be heard over my engine. I dont really have room for any amps either so I dont consider that an option.
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if components take so much juice. Would a head unit with 26watt rms be enough power to drive them? I dont listen to loud music only loud enough to be heard over my engine. I dont really have room for any amps either so I dont consider that an option.
Considering that his recommendation was for the factory HU, I don't believe you'll have any problems feeding component speakers with a 26 Watt RMS x 4 channel receiver. In fact, the demos I ran on the 6000cs components used a Sony DSO head unit as their source, which is rated at 23.2 W RMS x 4. As I wrote before, this setup sounded better than anything else they had [much to my surprise].
I believe some of our posters were assuming that I'm going with the external amps and sub-woofer. At this point, I just want a great sounding head unit and component speakers. I'm not going to any stereo competitions.
Have a great evening,
Bill
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I suprised Dufrain hasnt jumped in on this thread, he led me through the stereo path. Very knowledgeable. We figured out that my stereo setup would be as follows
Alpine CDA-9835 HU
JL Audio XR series 6.5" Components
Xtant 403A Amp
and If I want more depth I am going with 5.25" JLs in the rear to replace stock.
That setup will provide good umph in the system with a very good SQ which I am looking for as I listen to alot of Metallica, Megadeth, and the like. If I want more thump while still keeping SQ he recommended an Image Dynamics ID MAX v.3 D4 Subwoofer with a seperate Amp. That setup will be more than enough for me as I am looking for SQ and great sound. Not just thump like the ricers.
Right now I have the Xtant 403A sitting on the workbench and waiting for some money for the speakers. I have the head unit installed already. Also when you get your HU installed, if the installation is not free, I would recommend just doing it yourself, it is very very very simple, unless your colorblind and dont know how to solder.
Good luck with your system.
-Jared
Alpine CDA-9835 HU
JL Audio XR series 6.5" Components
Xtant 403A Amp
and If I want more depth I am going with 5.25" JLs in the rear to replace stock.
That setup will provide good umph in the system with a very good SQ which I am looking for as I listen to alot of Metallica, Megadeth, and the like. If I want more thump while still keeping SQ he recommended an Image Dynamics ID MAX v.3 D4 Subwoofer with a seperate Amp. That setup will be more than enough for me as I am looking for SQ and great sound. Not just thump like the ricers.
Right now I have the Xtant 403A sitting on the workbench and waiting for some money for the speakers. I have the head unit installed already. Also when you get your HU installed, if the installation is not free, I would recommend just doing it yourself, it is very very very simple, unless your colorblind and dont know how to solder.
Good luck with your system.
-Jared
#21
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Originally posted by Ram44maR
To be honest, the hardest part has been getting around the Dodge door panel retainers [which are effectively destroyed during removal--even with the proper tool].
To be honest, the hardest part has been getting around the Dodge door panel retainers [which are effectively destroyed during removal--even with the proper tool].
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#24
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I sold the Infiniti stuff and completely abandoned the stock system except for the tweeters. Installed a Panasonic deck, two 160 wat 6x9s, two 6 inch 120's, a bass blocker to the tweeters, a 400 watt crossfire to drive the four, a 300 watt crossfire to drive a 10 inch DVC on the back seat, and a 8 disc changer under the driver seat.
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Thanks for the replies.
However, as Dr Evil once said, "I gotta get the info-o-o-o..." If you guys know how to get the panels off without damaging those retainers, I'm all eyes. However, you'd be the first people I've communicated with that didn't mangle most of them [and this includes several "professional" installers I've spoken to about this].
Don't get me wrong, I could of easily put them back on the door panel and pushed it back on. However, the fact is that I have the tool and they still manage to lose some of the "teeth" just under the "cap" [where they grab the metal]. In fact, some of mine wouldn't come out unless you use bent-nose pliers.
I guess I'm hesistant to use the damaged retainers because the last thing I want is vibrations and/or squeaks--they're the worst. Considering what they look like upon removal, I suppose I'm also worried about getting it right the first time [what will they look like after two or more removals?].
Anyway, I did what it's all about. I wrote about the trouble I had and passed along what I did to get around it. If you can get them out in good shape, I'd really like to read about it.
To answer one poster's question, I don't think the pros buy from Dodge. I'm told that they just put the old ones back on, and let's face it, that's the very reason many of us do our own work.
Have a good night,
Bill
However, as Dr Evil once said, "I gotta get the info-o-o-o..." If you guys know how to get the panels off without damaging those retainers, I'm all eyes. However, you'd be the first people I've communicated with that didn't mangle most of them [and this includes several "professional" installers I've spoken to about this].
Don't get me wrong, I could of easily put them back on the door panel and pushed it back on. However, the fact is that I have the tool and they still manage to lose some of the "teeth" just under the "cap" [where they grab the metal]. In fact, some of mine wouldn't come out unless you use bent-nose pliers.
I guess I'm hesistant to use the damaged retainers because the last thing I want is vibrations and/or squeaks--they're the worst. Considering what they look like upon removal, I suppose I'm also worried about getting it right the first time [what will they look like after two or more removals?].
Anyway, I did what it's all about. I wrote about the trouble I had and passed along what I did to get around it. If you can get them out in good shape, I'd really like to read about it.
To answer one poster's question, I don't think the pros buy from Dodge. I'm told that they just put the old ones back on, and let's face it, that's the very reason many of us do our own work.
Have a good night,
Bill
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Originally posted by Ram44maR
you'd be the first people I've communicated with that didn't mangle most of them [and this includes several "professional" installers I've spoken to about this].
you'd be the first people I've communicated with that didn't mangle most of them [and this includes several "professional" installers I've spoken to about this].
#28
Like I said, I've reused mine more times than I can count. Most of them are mangled and stripped. The door goes on fine and it doesn't squeek or rattle and is just as solid as before. I've worked with "professionals" before and I've seen how they do it. Same way I do it. Yank the door off, do the work, snap the door back on. Just cause those clips are busted, doesn't mean they won't hold. Heck, I'm missing at least 2 clips from both of my doors and they are still solid. Just be careful and work your hand around the door, popping the plastic thingys (that's the technical term ) out one at a time and you'll be fine.
#30
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