EricE

Just bought a 97 4x4 with manual transmission. It is at the shop that did the pre-purchase inspection to do some repairs. While there, I want the mechanic to install an in-cab fuel pressure gauge with isolator (I'm going to convert over to biodiesel and want to know when I need to change fuel filters. Seems that a 0-50 range would be about ideal. The mechanic checked for kits and wasn't immediately finding one that would work for the '97 in an appropriate range. Anyone have any recommended mfr. and model number that I could give to the mechanic? Recommendations on fuel filters would be nice, too, since I'm going to need a few.
(Also posted in 2nd gen. non-drivetrain)

infidel

A 60 lb gauge is ideal for a 12 valve but you're going to have a hard time finding one, they like to skip from 30 psi to 100. If you don't mind it saying something other than fuel on it this outfit has many that say air, water, oil, etc and will work excellent http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...s&keyword=NFGA
This one would be good http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...atname=engines

Highly recommend you skip the isolator, it will give you nothing but trouble. You are also going to have to install a needle valve almost all the way closed or a snubber in line to dampen the pulsations from the lift pump. If you don't the gauge will pulsate so wildly you can't read it in the short time before it self destructs.

Your mechanic is going to have to remove the injection pump banjo bolt and tap a 1/8" port into the top of it. There are no kits nor easy ways to connect for fuel pressure on a 12 valve like there are on a 24.

Needle Valve Installed in Banjo Bolt

EricE

Thanks! That's exactly the type of information I was looking for. (It doesn't mean much to me, but I'm sure it will make sense to the mechanic who is going to do the installation).

TxDiesel007

Infidel has some kickin instructions on this setup

I personally use an Isspro 0-60 psi gauge, 40 bucks from diesel manor, and i DO NOT use an isolator... Do not waste ur money on those if u call them..

Rick

dodge lightning

I have a 24v and have the kit from diesel manor. Can i just use the suplied flexible plastic tubing with the suplied farrets on the fittings if i dont use an isolator or will it leak? I was unsure if the small farrets that hold the fittins on would leak or if that fuel would eat through that thin tubing.

TxDiesel007

I have mine set up like this..

I have the needle valve on the banjo bolt on the bottom of the Injector pump, from there i run the stainless steel line towards where the isolator used to be, when i realized that it was not working, i took it off, and from the isolator, the oil pressure tube was connecting to the front of the isolator. When i redid it, i used a male to male connector with some permatex, and ran it directly, NO ISSUES as of yet, nor leaks.... and pretty good pressure readings..


Rick

dodge lightning

thanks, rick i appreciate it.

DL1221

I second that!!! In fact, I used the water press gauge he recommended, (I made a FUEL label to go over it) works like a champ, and the whole thing cost me about $25.

Rauschbo

..."farrets"...? A genetic cousin to the small, furry vermin (ferrets)?

...or do you mean ferrule's, perhaps?

infidel

Be careful with the little ferrets
They are probably the most common leak source due to over-tightening.
Finger tight plus one turn of the wrench is plenty even though it doesn't feel like it.