Rear End Swap
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
Rear End Swap
Here is an update on my rearend swap. I have a 99 4x4 with 3:55's & drum brakes. Yesterday I removed it & installed a 01.5 with disc breaks. Everything has went pretty smooth as far as all the hardware hooking right back up. My problem I am still trying to over come is the different brake lines & coupler block on the 2 axles. I have been able to identify the 99 line as a 3/16th line. I have yet to figure out what is on the 01.5. I even ordered another couplerblock
& it has the 3/16th holes in it like my old one, but a different hook up to the proportioning valve. My old proportioning valve line has a disc brake caliper type block connector with a banjo bolt thru it. The 01.5 has a female 3/16th brake line end. It is apparent that it must hook in to some metal line coming off the proportioning valve, but I can't find out. The Dodge dealership said there computer didn't show a complete picture. Does anyone know. I don't know if this 01.5 has some kind of metric threads or what. They are coarse threads & the line still looks like 3/16ths but just the larger fitting. As for the master cylnder, I have changed it & the proportioning valve up there beside it.No apparent problems there, Yet. I hope I can find some adapters tomorrow to get this thing hooked up. I did go ahead & turn the back rotors & put new NAPA severe-duty pads on it,just so it would all be new. Any suggestions? Thanks
& it has the 3/16th holes in it like my old one, but a different hook up to the proportioning valve. My old proportioning valve line has a disc brake caliper type block connector with a banjo bolt thru it. The 01.5 has a female 3/16th brake line end. It is apparent that it must hook in to some metal line coming off the proportioning valve, but I can't find out. The Dodge dealership said there computer didn't show a complete picture. Does anyone know. I don't know if this 01.5 has some kind of metric threads or what. They are coarse threads & the line still looks like 3/16ths but just the larger fitting. As for the master cylnder, I have changed it & the proportioning valve up there beside it.No apparent problems there, Yet. I hope I can find some adapters tomorrow to get this thing hooked up. I did go ahead & turn the back rotors & put new NAPA severe-duty pads on it,just so it would all be new. Any suggestions? Thanks
#2
Banned
Thread Starter
I have come to the conclusion that my mystery brake line fittings are 11mm with 1.5 or 1.75 threads. Does anyone know where I an buy an adapter to swap from 11mm male to 3/16th male?
#3
Registered User
I'm trying to follow this, so if I seem mixed up it's because I am.
If you have a double-flaring tool, you can just buy a brake line with the fitting you need, cut the lines and install the fitting you need, then flare it again.
I will be watching this thread because I am thinking of doing the same thing to my 99.
Thanks,
Chris
If you have a double-flaring tool, you can just buy a brake line with the fitting you need, cut the lines and install the fitting you need, then flare it again.
I will be watching this thread because I am thinking of doing the same thing to my 99.
Thanks,
Chris
#4
Banned
Thread Starter
OK Stamey here is the FINAL outcome. IT WORKS!!
I just had a brain lapse until Saturday morning. I went to a parts store & bought 2 Disc brake rubber brake lines with a 3/16th female end & the other went onto the brake caliper just like the stock one. I was able to go back & use my original coupling block to tie both lines together & go to the Proportioning valve mounted on the frame right up over the axle. I can't believe this was so easy after I quit worrying about the metric part of it. I just bought a 12 & 40 inch brake line & bent them to fit into the 2 brake lines at the calipers I purchased. I pulled my master cylinder off to put the larger disc brake one on. It won't work in spite of what Dodge says. I popped the tank off of the disc brake cylinder & my old one. I popped the disc tank back into my old master cylinder & hooked it all back up. I did swap the little aluminum block valve mounted right beside the master cylinder, but I don't know if this was necessary or not. I probably should have left my old one on there to see how it worked. I thoroughly bled the brakes down with the truck off, then went back & bled them again with it on. It works great best I can tell. I was running over 100mph on the way home & it would stop nice & even. The front brakes will still lock up on dirt, but they did that before. I have only rear ABS, so I guess this is normal. I am going to try & play with adjusting the rear proportioning valve to get a little more braking out of the back. I think I am going to disconnect my front brakes & plug them off just to see how the back stops. Adjust, then hook everything back up. I am extremely happy with my outcome at this point.
I just had a brain lapse until Saturday morning. I went to a parts store & bought 2 Disc brake rubber brake lines with a 3/16th female end & the other went onto the brake caliper just like the stock one. I was able to go back & use my original coupling block to tie both lines together & go to the Proportioning valve mounted on the frame right up over the axle. I can't believe this was so easy after I quit worrying about the metric part of it. I just bought a 12 & 40 inch brake line & bent them to fit into the 2 brake lines at the calipers I purchased. I pulled my master cylinder off to put the larger disc brake one on. It won't work in spite of what Dodge says. I popped the tank off of the disc brake cylinder & my old one. I popped the disc tank back into my old master cylinder & hooked it all back up. I did swap the little aluminum block valve mounted right beside the master cylinder, but I don't know if this was necessary or not. I probably should have left my old one on there to see how it worked. I thoroughly bled the brakes down with the truck off, then went back & bled them again with it on. It works great best I can tell. I was running over 100mph on the way home & it would stop nice & even. The front brakes will still lock up on dirt, but they did that before. I have only rear ABS, so I guess this is normal. I am going to try & play with adjusting the rear proportioning valve to get a little more braking out of the back. I think I am going to disconnect my front brakes & plug them off just to see how the back stops. Adjust, then hook everything back up. I am extremely happy with my outcome at this point.
#6
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Thread Starter
Well what a day. I get my rearend fixed & now my tranny has torn up again. It naturally is just out of warranty. It has been rebuilt 3 times in the last 2 years. That sucks. I just don't think it is worth continuing to spend big money on big boys in Atlanta to do it. I just can't win with this tranny. Does anybody know any good auto tranny builders in GA?
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#8
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I let Jeff Garmon build me one. He said it was right & tight. Going to get it Thursday. I feel better about him rebuilding it because he uses Suncoast parts. The clown that has built it the 3 previous times has been taking me on a long ride down NIGHTMARE LANE. I hope the nightmare is over now. My other tranny looked like a grenade went off in it. Jeff said he had never seen one like it & he sees racing stuff all the time. Anyway, I thought I would post the part number for the brake lines I used to swap my rearend to a disc brake rearend. The number is a WAGNER brake products-- F106886. These are about 12 inches long or maybe a little longer. I suggest getting some just like this that are around 8 or 9 inches long. You won't have to worry about them crimping then. I hope this helps anyone doing this. Mine has worked fine. I am going to take a pressure guage & see how much pressure I am getting at each wheel & adjust my proportioning valve according to my specs. If anyone needs any help with this, let me know & I will give you my number so we can talk on the phone if necessary.
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