Baja

I have the Dynatrac kit. I really like it. I also have the solid 1.5", 35 spline solid inner and outer axles. I have had major issues with the vacuum system, major issues. I have a gain of about 1-1/2 to 2 mpg. I have done coasting tests on a hill near my home, I gain about 2-3 mph with the hubs spinning free, vs locked, with the transfer case in neutral. My top speed is 59 mph, spinning free. I did the test 4 times to get a average. The parasitic drag is measurable. I am also old school, I like to get out and lock the hubs. I have never found it to be a hassle, you just have to be aware that you need to engage the hubs before it is too late. I will never go back to a "automatic engaging 4wd".
FWIW, I have a Dynatrac system for sale, fits 94-98, 30 spline axles. I did not write the above to plug what I am selling. I think it is a good system to deal with the vacuum junk, sliding collar, along with the 2 piece passenger side axle. If interested, PM me.

RickCJ

CAD unly release pass side, Driver wheel, axle and spiders turn! The front shaft will turn but not under power, since it turns it will not sit one 1 spline and wear as quick.
I can't count the # of front drive shafts and diff I replaced on the older trucks, 1 st comment was I hardly ever used the 4wd!

HOHN

The CAD was eliminated for tons of good reasons. There are concrete gains in reliability, simplicity, and durability that you get in return for suffering the increased driveline drag of the non CAD type setup.

For my non CAD 02, there really is no downside to the hub kit. If I leave the hubs locked in all the time, I'm back to where I was originally with the factory 4wd system.

But by going to the kit that Baja used, I'd gain much strong inner and outers up front, I'd be able to run a LSD up front, and all that.

I'd be interested in going all the way with the front end-- full dynatrac, THEIR hubs (not warn), 35spl inners and outers, and Truetrac up front.
Sounds good to me.

jh

J OOPS

I'm running manual hubs and loving it. I've seen a 4mpg improvement when I changed over but I also changed out the fluids on all gear boxes to synthetic at the same time.
The cost minimal. I did the conversion myself. I did a huge write up on it and posted it. Granted my hubs, I got for basically nothing from a friend who owned a junk yard. I think I have about $360 into it. To do the conversion yourself I would think about $700 would be the total price.

RickCJ

WOW you should be getting as high as 26mpg highway!!!

HOHN

Who says he isn't?

J OOPS

Nope, I'm running at 23mpg. I'm going to try some other options like DDP 50hp injectors, which claim a 1 1/2 to 2mpg improvement and change out torque converters to a lower stall, which people claim to have seen a 2mpg improvement. I still running stock air filter and exhaust, which I will also be changing. With all the changes I would be happy if I got 26mpg. But we will see.

RickCJ

Where'd that 4mpg increase go? I can get as high as 20 mpg with the dually and 22 mpg with the 3/4 ton auto.

diesel_pwr

what do the hubs look like? do they stick out far? what rotors do the ems kit use?

thanks,

Busboy

I have had at least one 4X4 for the last 35 years, all with manual hubs. The exception is my 2001 CTD. As I use 4 WD a lot I leave my hubs engaged most of the time and get out to UNLOCK them. If conditions are good I leave them unlocked but the moment things get a little bad I lock them in just in case I decide to use 4WD, then its just engage the Xfr case. I notice a difference in MPG and smoothness especially on the Hi way. You have to keep them lubed up with silicone grease to keep the water out or they freeze in the winter and you need to have BOTH engaged for 4WD. With fuel prices on the rise its a mod I may do to the 2001.

J OOPS

I was originally getting 19mpg. With the conversion and synthetic oils it jumped to 23mpg (hubs unlocked)
As for what the hubs look like. Read my write up, here on DTR.
Search for "maual hubs DIY"
It is a complete write up from what tools,parts, you will need and where to find the parts. Complete tear down to rebuild with the manual hubs.
I believe the EMS kit uses the original rotors.

Busboy. I'm doing the same up here in Alaska in regards to running with the hubs locked in most of the winter. I use the water resistant grease.

bullboy85

no EMS uses rotors from a 1 ton ford, pritty much the same thing though. from what i understand its an upgread from the dodge 3/4 rotors. seems like everyone that does it says the same thing. its worth it. i havent changed all the boxes to senthetics yet on the list thought and im at 23, im shooting for 26+ with the trany and injectors though we will see.

J OOPS

Bullboy; how much increase did you see with the EMS kit for mpg?

How much of an increase in mpg do most people see from aftermarket exhaust kits?

bullboy85

i saw about 3 or 4, its hard to say exacly cuz i did it at about the same time as a few other things but now im back down to stock agen and im still about 3 mpg over when i got the truck. after market exhausts? really u dont need one unless your going higher hp. straight pipe it or get a after market muff, i think u see 1 or 2 with that. not to sure there mine didnt have its muff when i got it.

J OOPS

I thougt about going with the CAD delete kit but living up in Alaska in the winter it was just easier to keep it. I run with the hubs locked in all winter. Around town I usually have the 4x4 engaged then disengage on the hwy. I do get better mileage this way and don't have to get out of the truck to unlock the hubs before getting on the hwy. Summer is when I get the huge fuel savings of running without the axles turning. It's also a comfort knowing that I can service those brgs and not have the huge cost of replacing a whole unit hub at $300.