I understand there are other benefits to doing this swap, and I've searched for mileage claims already and couldn't find much. Who has swapped to manual hubs, which kit did you use, did your truck have CAD before the swap, and what MPG did you gain? Thanks

 

This would be interesting to see .

 

Do a search on EMS. There is lot of info on the conversion.

 

I have searched, there isn't a lot of mileage feedback, just a couple of people. I'd like to get more people's results, and am also wondering if the improvements people are getting are because they had bad front bearing hubs before and now have new bearings.

 

I don't see a bad bearing causing a slight loss of mpg. I see a bad bearing cause a slight loss of vehicle control and an accident.

The mpg gains from a hub kit or bonafide-- I've seen as much as 3pmg claimed, but these trucks vary a good bit.

The guys who are reporting mpg gains are seeing mpgs better than one the truck was almost new-- ruling out a bad bearing, imo.

I get better mpg now than when I had only 25K on my truck, and I don't have a hub kit.

 

Not any noticable mileage increase!
No benefits only drawbacks.
Front drivshaft splines wear qiucker and front diff can become rusted if any moisture is present. You have to exit cab to lock in hubs. Benefits??? more parts to break and wear out.

To save fuel use the $1500 for the conversion and buy a cheap 4 banger!

 

Wow, I guess I can quit beating my self up for not doing the conversion.

 

I wouldn't expect to see much difference on a CAD-equipped truck.

A truck like mine that has no CAD and spins the entire front end all the time would probably see the greatest benefit.

jmo

 

The only trucks that don't have CAD are 2002, correct? I found a guy w/ a 99 claiming he got 3 mpg, anyone else? As far as more parts to wear out and front diff rusting, I've owned several firstgen 4x4's. The bearings can be repacked and are much cheaper than buying the bearing hubs for second gens, if the driveshaft gets greased every 3K and if you use 4x4 occasionally everything stays lubed. The EMS conversion is cheaper than $1500 and looks like it includes all new bearings and brake rotors.

To add to this, I do have some concern about using an aftermarket setup for this, has anyone heard of any failures of components on any of these kits? Any gains are worthless if the kits can't hold the weight reliably.

 

CAD was eliminated on trucks built after 1 Jan 2002. Early 02s will still have it.

 

u probibly heard it form me, iv been nothing but happy with my kit. i hate haveing a 4x4 that is henged on a vacume line, its just to fradual. iv used my 4x4 quite a bit sence i got the kit and havnt had anything break and this includes a trip down a jeep trail to get a buddys jeep out wich resulted in a dent in then side of my truck and haveing to pull the frond diff cover and file a spot where i hit a rock so it would quit leaking. how many of you are really going to do that to your truck? if you are id feel alot better with this kit then the stock setup. matnence is 10x cheeper. and ya i saw at least 3 mpg from this kit alone. so i have to strongly disagree with anyone that says its a waist of money. so far id say this is one of the best things iv done to my truck.

 

I'm confused. Front driveshaft splines wear quicker? The driveshaft turns the exact same amount with CAD as with a locking hub when both are engaged or disengaged. Front diff become rusted? From what? If you have water in your oil, thats likely from a leaky seal, which you can't really blame on the lock outs. You have to exit the cab to lock them? Thats debatable if thats a con or not. Personally, I'd rather that. You know its locked in, not relying on a vacuum line.

As for the more parts to break, this system was used for how many decades and seemed quite successful. There is failures with anything. But having the lock out blow apart, or a wheel bearing, I think the choice is quite easy. Not to mention when the wheelbearings are $300+.

 

sealed Dodge wheel bearings are expensive but they do last way over 100K.

 

i use my 4x4 on adverage 1s a week, like i said for me this is the best thing iv done to my truck yet. iv know barings in this setup to last over 100k too, and you dont hear horar stories about them failing and getting you into an accedent. plus the fact that the stock componets are not made to handle wide tires like this setup is. heavy loads and wide tires cause the stocks to wear out alot faster and have a greater chance of failier. is this right for everyone? no of corse not, it depends what you are looking for and how you use your truck. and my stock wheel bearings only stayed on for 130k and the should of been changed before that. they were both pritty bad.

 

If 4x4 is not engaged, and the hubs are not engaged, the driveshaft doesn't turn. If 4x4 is not engaged, and neither is the CAD, the driveshaft doesn't turn. Whats the difference?

Engaging 4wd to make the front diff turn will be the same whether you have locking hubs or CAD. You don't need the hubs locked to engage 4wd. So again, seems like a moot point.

Plain tapered roller bearings will outlast the unit bearings, are cheaper, and are servicable.

But hey, different strokes for different folks.