Question on Auto Trans
#1
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Chapter President
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 978
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From: Highlands Ranch, Colorado
Question on Auto Trans
So my auto hates me, and I'm pretty sure I'll be switching to a manual soon.
But for the time being, I have a diagnosis question for all you auto guys.
My trans works great while I'm towing....(usually my jeep yj on a 18ft flat bed) keeping in mind I live in the MTNS and it has to work.
However, when I'm driving empty, I hate it. If I baby it off the line, it' just takes forever to shift up, (od on or off) and get movin. I think a lot of heat builds up and the trans just spins. BUt, if I rail on it, floored from the get go, It shifts fine. Runs through all the gears great.
THen if I'm going under 40, and I go to punch it, hard or not, it just red lines and doesn;t take off. just spins and spins and bairly moves.
So, what is wrong, and what do I need to fix it. Torque converter, Valve body, lock up switch........? What?
I don't want to put in a torque converter if all I need is a valve body, or something else.
Also, if you make a suggestion, if you could tell me what parts you used, if you put it in or if a shop did/ how hard it was to do.
Thanks for the help guys and gals!
But for the time being, I have a diagnosis question for all you auto guys.
My trans works great while I'm towing....(usually my jeep yj on a 18ft flat bed) keeping in mind I live in the MTNS and it has to work.
However, when I'm driving empty, I hate it. If I baby it off the line, it' just takes forever to shift up, (od on or off) and get movin. I think a lot of heat builds up and the trans just spins. BUt, if I rail on it, floored from the get go, It shifts fine. Runs through all the gears great.
THen if I'm going under 40, and I go to punch it, hard or not, it just red lines and doesn;t take off. just spins and spins and bairly moves.
So, what is wrong, and what do I need to fix it. Torque converter, Valve body, lock up switch........? What?
I don't want to put in a torque converter if all I need is a valve body, or something else.
Also, if you make a suggestion, if you could tell me what parts you used, if you put it in or if a shop did/ how hard it was to do.
Thanks for the help guys and gals!
#2
Welcome to a stock torque converter and it's LOVELY fluid coupling properties. A torque converter is the only way to solve the laggy take off's and a valvebody will help hold the power you've got now. Not to mention you'll never even think about swapping out for a manual. I'd call up Dave at Goerend's and talk to him.
#3
Thread Starter
Chapter President
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 978
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From: Highlands Ranch, Colorado
No, that's what I'm saying, if I get on it, I launch pretty well, makes me think it's a valve body. (I was hoping you'd write me since you are only running a valve body) Why only a valve body and no torque converter?
Where is Goerend's located? Website? Thanks.
Where is Goerend's located? Website? Thanks.
#4
I'm only running a VB because when I talked to Stefan at DTT he told me not to get a TC right now cause the added strain on the seals and front pump could destroy them. I don't know enough about tranny's to argue with anybody about this but I'd say he knows what he's talking about considering the power I'm laying down in my sig.
Mine acts just like yours does. Normal driving it's a dog but as soon as you mat it it screams off the line. Only thing I can come up with is that normal driving we don't ever really get to the stall rating of the converter (as you add power the stall speed goes up) so the converter is never doing it's job per say. Where as when you floor it or build boost and launch it it's getting up to it's stall speed and doing it's job. That's why you need to get a lower stall converter. It feels better around town and launches better than the stocker does.
Mine acts just like yours does. Normal driving it's a dog but as soon as you mat it it screams off the line. Only thing I can come up with is that normal driving we don't ever really get to the stall rating of the converter (as you add power the stall speed goes up) so the converter is never doing it's job per say. Where as when you floor it or build boost and launch it it's getting up to it's stall speed and doing it's job. That's why you need to get a lower stall converter. It feels better around town and launches better than the stocker does.
#7
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Chapter President
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 978
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From: Highlands Ranch, Colorado
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#10
That Rotela stuff is 15-40 motor oil. You dont put that in your automatic tranny. You use automatic transmission fluid, for chrysler products +3, or meron dextron . Valveline is a good brand.
You need to get your tranny serviced, dump the oil and filter. Look in the pan and see how much crud is in there. Also look for shine metalic flakes , like your paning for gold. Metal shaveings are a bad sign.
Tranny oil is light in viscocity and should be red in color. Yours sounds like its probably brown and smells burnt.
You need to get your tranny serviced, dump the oil and filter. Look in the pan and see how much crud is in there. Also look for shine metalic flakes , like your paning for gold. Metal shaveings are a bad sign.
Tranny oil is light in viscocity and should be red in color. Yours sounds like its probably brown and smells burnt.
#12
#13
Let me tell you how mine shifts so you can get an idea on yours. I take the rpm's to about 2000rpm. The 1-2 shift drops them about 200rpm, the 2-3 shifts drop them about 50rpm, the 3rd lock up drops them about 4-500rpm, the OD shift drops them by about the same.