Quality reman or build?
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Quality reman or build?
Question. I'm wanting to do a conversion on an F250/350. I prefer a 12v just cause I had a '98 regular cab and loved it.....being able to run a 1/2 dozen different kinds of fuel was just too cool! Anyway, I just want a solid, strong but well sorted out, streetable motor that I can still tow with. Wherever that puts me in the HP department is fine. People I've talked with before at some of the better known shops say that's somewhere around the 450 range on a 12v.
So...should I look at a reman or find a good block/rotating assembly and build from there? This has been a couple years in the making and I expect to make it a go this year. Thanks!
So...should I look at a reman or find a good block/rotating assembly and build from there? This has been a couple years in the making and I expect to make it a go this year. Thanks!
#2
Waste of money to rebuild in most cases. Good engines are plentiful, and the only real benefit in most cases is fresh seals.
Pull the oil pan, look at and plastiguage the connecting rod bearings, put on new front and rear seals, and maybe valve seals and run it unless you find something funky. JMO
Pull the oil pan, look at and plastiguage the connecting rod bearings, put on new front and rear seals, and maybe valve seals and run it unless you find something funky. JMO
#3
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Waste of money to rebuild in most cases. Good engines are plentiful, and the only real benefit in most cases is fresh seals.
Pull the oil pan, look at and plastiguage the connecting rod bearings, put on new front and rear seals, and maybe valve seals and run it unless you find something funky. JMO
Pull the oil pan, look at and plastiguage the connecting rod bearings, put on new front and rear seals, and maybe valve seals and run it unless you find something funky. JMO
There are many 150-300K units out there for under 2K.............
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I'm a little iffy about most of what I see online. Ebay will list stuff like "C8.3" and then you look at the picture and description and it says its a 5.9 or they'll say its B3.9 and the picture clearly shows a 6 pot pump. Many are older VE pump engines. Any ideas where I could look in the southeast? Shiver Diesel in Tallahassee has been recommended but I haven't called them yet.
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I prefer the P7100. Man, I've had every type---'92, '04, '98 and now my dad's old '01. The P pump engines really have a nice feel to them But the old '92 wasn't bad either. The VE type engines don't seem to re-sell as high. How much trouble is it swap one around? I have seen what looks to be good P7100s at not too bad of prices.
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Right now I only saw 3 possibilities on Macon Ga. Craigslist, Florida seems to be higher than heck right now! I wouldn't swap a VE to P7100, too much to mess with.
If yours is a 4X4 there is a 96 complete 3/4 ton 4X4 in Warner Robbins for 3200 or best offer, you could part the rest out and drop the cost significantly. There is a Yellow 94 2WD in the Jax Craigslist for 3800 that is a nice looking truck, probably could sell the rolling chassis for a decent price.
If yours is a 4X4 there is a 96 complete 3/4 ton 4X4 in Warner Robbins for 3200 or best offer, you could part the rest out and drop the cost significantly. There is a Yellow 94 2WD in the Jax Craigslist for 3800 that is a nice looking truck, probably could sell the rolling chassis for a decent price.
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Thanks Pat. I'll keep checking. I had the pleasure of talking with Robert from Shiver Diesel today. As in Robert the Crew Chief of Stuckey Racing (duh I didn't even realize it til I got off the phone ). He was very helpful and pointed out, as is evident with their race truck what a stock block Cummins is capable of and what I should look for. Thanks much.
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Thanks Pat. I'll keep checking. I had the pleasure of talking with Robert from Shiver Diesel today. As in Robert the Crew Chief of Stuckey Racing (duh I didn't even realize it til I got off the phone ). He was very helpful and pointed out, as is evident with their race truck what a stock block Cummins is capable of and what I should look for. Thanks much.
He might even enjoy working on something that isn't set on kill all the time....
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Yeah it was an interesting talk. He threw out several ideas. I was very satisfied with what he said and the money involved depending on where you started. I was thinking that maybe 400-450 would be my idea of about right. He stepped that right up to 550 no problem. Ya know...good manners, tow ability, etc.----with twins of course if I wanted to do them. Otherwise less power and a single would do it. You could definitely tell he has a fire in the gut for these engines. In short, he made it very clear that everything below the head was PLENTY capable in stock form. In fact, I think I understood him to say that the Green Truck is essentially stock below the head. WOW! I guess that really is the thing about the B series. Here we have an engine that I'm sure Cummins never thought would be making the kind of power we see today. If they had, we probably would have seen them do something different with the head! But the engine can do it because its built like a bank vault and can take the boost. Compare that to the Duramax, which has great cylinder heads but as a result, can make more power that its structure can take in stock form. Plus, they don't sound as good!!
Oh, I did ask if the price included a Chunchit valve...........
Oh, I did ask if the price included a Chunchit valve...........
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