Lary Ellis (Top)

MRBilly, this link is to our faq section, some real good stuff in there and this particular one may answer most of your questions.

http://www.dodge-diesel.org/faq/faq....p;onlynewfaq=1


Update: I posted this before I realized you already visited the Faq section.

Push Rod

[quote author=MrBilly link=board=20;threadid=7281;start=0#71942 date=1038180558]
Specifically, how does one react to a particular extreme either way - up or down? ???
[/quote]

Panic

Seriously though:

Pyrometer - If its low, start the truck. Too high, above 1350F pre-turbo, back out of the throttle. If temps don't start to decrease, then you've got a problem. Probably a good sized leak in the charge air cooler or boots. This will likely be accompanied by a severe loss of power. If everything is good on the cooler side, and you've recently added a power mod, this probably means you've got too much fuel, not enough air. Time for an air system and/or exhaust.

Boost - This one is a little tougher to use. Unless you have a catastrophic failure of the charge air cooler, or lose a boot, you likely won't see a pile of difference in boost, except at peak. If you are normally able to boost to 28 PSI, and then you see that the peak is starting to head downwards, you've probably got a cooler problem or a fueling problem.

Keep an eye out for slight changes. For example, if you normally boost at 10 PSI while travelling at 60 mph, and then you notice that you're only boosting 8 PSI for a few trips, it may point to leaks.

Fuel Pressure - I haven't seen any numbers on what to expect from an 03 fuel system, and I haven't gotten an FP gauge rigged in my 03 yet to get baseline runs. If the pressure beings to drop below normal levels, this means that the transfer pump is growing weak.

Rod

pwabbott

MrBilly, I will attempt the Tranny Temp gauge. Automatic transmissions by their nature have major internal friction which generates heat. The torque converter is a turbine using tranny fluid. It is a of a liquid clutch. Slippage allows for smooth starts and an increase of torque to the drive wheels. The more slippage the more heat generated, and the less fuel efficient (mpg) the vehicle.<br><br>Tranny Engineers found that to make the torque converter more fuel efficient they could lock out the turbine with fluid and thereby eliminate slippage. This lock out feature was added to 3rd gear and 4th gear (high and overdrive). By adding this feature they eliminated the major source of heat. Lockout could only occur at times when the tranny is not shifting. <br><br>Heat generated in the torque converter must be eliminated to prevent a &quot;tranny fry&quot; or meltdown. This is done by pumping the fluid through a cooler in front of the radiator<br><br>In towing the tranny stays in 1st and 2nd gears longer than non-towing situations, thus generating more heat than in non-towing conditions. If towing was always on the level there would be little concern for tranny temperature. The one exception is in backing a trailer. In reverse gear there is minimal cooling of fluid as there is little motion of air through the tranny cooler. Temperatures can rise extremely fast, in two to three minutes to a dangerous level.<br><br>Another case where temperatures rise rapidly is under a condition where you must tow up a steep grade at a slow speed below lockup conditions say in 2nd gear. As I live in mountain rural subdividsion I must tow one mile of 14% grade from a near no more that 10 mph at the base of the grade. My auto tranny went from 190 degrees to 250+ degrees in the one mile.<br><br>The tranny temp gauge tells you when your tranny is heating and how rapidly this takes place. It warns you in time to take action and prevent the loss of a tranny. (That will cost you $3,000-$4,000.)<br><br>Keep in mind when tranny fluid is heated above 190 degrees the usef lubricating life of the fluid is decreased. The higher temperature the shorter the life of tranny fluid. There is an &quot;idiot light&quot;, tranny warning light on the dash. When it lights it may be too late to save your tranny.<br><br>I hope this explains why you need a tranny temp gauge if you are towing.<br><br>

MrBilly

Thank you Rod and Phil.<br><br>Billy [laugh]

MDKram

Rod, perhaps you could shed some light on the tricks for drilling the manifold for the thermocouple?!? You one of a few that have installed a pyro pre turbo. I'm affraid that many will be talked into mounting it post turbo when they encounter the tight quarters.<br><br>On the EGT, 1350 is the max short term temp you want to see (i.e. for a few seconds). 1250 is max sustained temperature you want to run. These are pre turbo readings.<br><br>Marc

gerryz

Help Do you only need pyro if you have an auto/shift or do you need also for 6/sp thxs

Lary Ellis (Top)

A pyro should be standard equipment on any CTD right from the factory in my humble opinion. But regardless what tranny you have, being able to see what that engine is doing especially during heavy load and boost is important enough to warrant installing one.
Not to mention the cooling down period for your turbo. I will never go without one again.

BTW gerryz we have a DTR chapter opening in Alberta. Should you decide to install one you may find you have people near you that may be able to lend advice or even possibly a hand. If you are interested let me know I will put you in touch with the people there, I am sure they would love to have you as a DTR Chapter member and best of all it's FREE!

pwabbott

Has anyone had experience with a pre-turbo Isspro EVA Exhaust Pyro 1500f?<br>Has anyone used the weld on bushing? Just don't want to drill and have warranty problems. <br><br>from DTR Online Store:<br>Isspro EVA Exhaust Pyro 1500f (Pre-Turbo)<br><br>Isspro R607T Pyrometer Kit (Includes 10 ft lead and Adjustable Thermocouple) Comes with a weld on bushing or can be screwed in as well. Recommended for pre-turbo install.

Push Rod

[quote author=MDKram link=board=7;threadid=7281;start=15#73020 date=1038410065]<br>Rod, perhaps you could shed some light on the tricks for drilling the manifold for the thermocouple?!? You one of a few that have installed a pyro pre turbo. I'm affraid that many will be talked into mounting it post turbo when they encounter the tight quarters.<br>[/quote]<br><br>I missed this one, sorry y'all. The 03, due to the turbo flange being located further back is a bit of a pain in the neck to do a pre-turbo thermocouple install on. I found that the air conditioning pot and lines were in my way, when trying to use my cordless drill. I ended up needing to use a small 3/8&quot; chuck air drill, with a narrow and short body. I was just able to get the drill into the space and drill the hole. If you don't have a smaller drill available, you may be able to cut your drill bit in half to make room.<br><br>Rod

Push Rod

Phil,<br><br>You don't want to use the 607T thermocouple kit with the EV series gauge, as the EV pyro already has a 10 foot lead wire built into the signal sending unit. You want the 658S adjustable thermocouple and whichever IssPro EV series gauge strikes your fancy (3607 series I think is the best one of the bunch).<br><br>Rod