Pyro Probe install
#1
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 174
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From: Dayton, NJ (temporarily while In USCG on Staten Island)
Pyro Probe install
Well I finally ordered a pyro gauge. I plan on installing pre turbo, what I am wondering is if there is an old school trick to drilling without pulling the turbo, like grease on drill to pull shavings, or just pull turbo and be done with it? Thanks for all the help here on this site.
Stephen
Stephen
#2
Grease on the bit, and clean it out with a magnet. Worked great for me and many others. It is not that hard to drop the turbo, but it is not necessary for a pyro install. Any stray chips will blow out when you start it up the first time, before the turbo spools.
#3
Really simple...
I explained my install on my web page...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...icol_gages.htm
No need to pull the turbo... Just take your time...
I explained my install on my web page...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar197...icol_gages.htm
No need to pull the turbo... Just take your time...
#4
Grease on the bit and on the tap plus I used a magnet to get any chips out of the manifold. I was aprenhensive about this part of installing my gauges but it turned out to be really easy. I was supprised how easy the manifold was to drill and tap.
#6
Remember not to drill in between the two flow tubes or what ever the heck they are called. I have a plug between mine. That is what happens when you give an electrical engineer mechanical engineering tools.
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#9
Originally Posted by NOSPIN4ME
I drilled and tapped with the engine running at idle. Shavings blew out the hole. taking the path of least resistance.
If you do it this way remember to wear a face shield...shavings are hot.
If you do it this way remember to wear a face shield...shavings are hot.
Really good one not to do...GEEZ!
#11
Originally Posted by NOSPIN4ME
I drilled and tapped with the engine running at idle. Shavings blew out the hole. taking the path of least resistance.
If you do it this way remember to wear a face shield...shavings are hot.
If you do it this way remember to wear a face shield...shavings are hot.
#12
I used a magnet when done to clean it up inside.
I've just not heard of any problems tapping the pyro without pulling the turbo. Most of the chips are small enough (since you are drilling cast iron) that they blow right through when you start the truck anyway. Clean it out for sure, get what you can, but don't worry about it.
Personally, I think the grease trick is over kill, toooooo messy. A magnet works the best.
I've just not heard of any problems tapping the pyro without pulling the turbo. Most of the chips are small enough (since you are drilling cast iron) that they blow right through when you start the truck anyway. Clean it out for sure, get what you can, but don't worry about it.
Personally, I think the grease trick is over kill, toooooo messy. A magnet works the best.
#14
haha dad broke a drill bit off in one of my buddies trucks, so i recommend NOT to do this with the truck running. ended up pullin the turbo to get it all out. i drilled mine w/o problems, and i didtn have the truck running. just grease and a magnet. and a good drill bit
#15
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 174
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From: Dayton, NJ (temporarily while In USCG on Staten Island)
Thanks guys, I should have it done today. I will post some pics of the gauge panel I am building inside the truck later this weekend. I got rid of the cup holder and welded an aluminum base to act as my gauge cluster, cup holder, and switch panel. I just need to paint it soon because the glare off the bare aluminum is killer bright, especially the part that runs horizontal to the seat.
Thanks again, stephen
Thanks again, stephen
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