Which pump plate??
#1
Which pump plate??
Hey guys,
I have a 95 12v and Im looking to due some mild power upgrades. I am going to do a 3000gsk and a pump plate for sure but im not sure which plate best suits what im using my truck for. My truck is my daily driver usually unloaded, so I want something that wont sacrifice my mileage if I can keep my foot out of it. I do use it to tow and haul my 4x4 around and my bikes. I searched but couldent really find a post explaining the the differences in the plates and what they are all good for. I wouldent mind alittle more soot occasionally too !! besides those two things what should I do to make a killer tow rig.
Ethan
I have a 95 12v and Im looking to due some mild power upgrades. I am going to do a 3000gsk and a pump plate for sure but im not sure which plate best suits what im using my truck for. My truck is my daily driver usually unloaded, so I want something that wont sacrifice my mileage if I can keep my foot out of it. I do use it to tow and haul my 4x4 around and my bikes. I searched but couldent really find a post explaining the the differences in the plates and what they are all good for. I wouldent mind alittle more soot occasionally too !! besides those two things what should I do to make a killer tow rig.
Ethan
#2
I would stay with the chart recommendations since you have the stock auto.
#6 Plate.
http://www.piersdiesel.com/CamPlate.htm
A stock auto just can't handle much power. You won't lose mileage period, with any of the plates, its how you drive what nets the good mileage.
There really are no differences in plates, they basically all do the same thing, at WOT provide x amount of fuel at a given rpm. or one is deeper cut than the other at a given rpm.
hope this helps.
John
#6 Plate.
http://www.piersdiesel.com/CamPlate.htm
A stock auto just can't handle much power. You won't lose mileage period, with any of the plates, its how you drive what nets the good mileage.
There really are no differences in plates, they basically all do the same thing, at WOT provide x amount of fuel at a given rpm. or one is deeper cut than the other at a given rpm.
hope this helps.
John
#4
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Hi, TST makes two plates for your truck a # 6 and a # 5. The # 6 is what they recommend with a Stock auto. I ran this one before I got my trans done, now I'm running a # 5. Towing with a # 5 is no problem just keep your RPMs up and watch your gauges. Since you already have your trans done I would get the # 5 . You also get a Boost elbow that will bump your boost up to close to 30 psi . A # 5 plate should put you at about 255 HP and 650lbs . The plate over a stock one is the best bang for the buck . Check out TSTproducts.com
#5
Sorry, I didn't see your sig.
Since your ready to go, honestly instead of buying 2-3 plates down the road. Might as well get the hotest plate you can get if you want the most bang for the buck.
If you tow alot, get a #10 and push it foward for fun, center or rear for towing. Slow ramp up, defuel on top end for egts.
get #100 for all out most ponies slower ramp easier on tranny. full fuel on top end
get a #0 for smoke city and lots of fun, full fuel at every rpm when you get on it.
I've tried the #6, #10, and now #0. I'm very happy with 0. I have the valet valve, so I can literally back off from the 0 and reduce HP from 430 to 290 if needed, but I've never had to.
Just because you have a 0 or 100, doesn't mean it smokes everytime you leave a stop light, mine doesn't, its only when I really get on it, the 370's and plate kick in. If you drive sensibly, you won't be noticed as having any mods at all, but its there if you want to play later, and have the extra power to tow.
Like with each plate, adjust it to fit your needs. Mine is full forward, like you I occasional tow, but most of the time I'm empty, I get 19 around the city, and 20-23 on the hwy running 60-65 mph.
As most note, the size of plate has no bearing on mpg, only that you will be able to keep it in a top gear longer.
Since your on stock injectors, I doubt you'll see any egt issues what soever. I'd think you would have to pull 10k+ up a long grade before she'd get to hot.
Thats when a valet valve is handy, it cancels out the plate.
Since your ready to go, honestly instead of buying 2-3 plates down the road. Might as well get the hotest plate you can get if you want the most bang for the buck.
If you tow alot, get a #10 and push it foward for fun, center or rear for towing. Slow ramp up, defuel on top end for egts.
get #100 for all out most ponies slower ramp easier on tranny. full fuel on top end
get a #0 for smoke city and lots of fun, full fuel at every rpm when you get on it.
I've tried the #6, #10, and now #0. I'm very happy with 0. I have the valet valve, so I can literally back off from the 0 and reduce HP from 430 to 290 if needed, but I've never had to.
Just because you have a 0 or 100, doesn't mean it smokes everytime you leave a stop light, mine doesn't, its only when I really get on it, the 370's and plate kick in. If you drive sensibly, you won't be noticed as having any mods at all, but its there if you want to play later, and have the extra power to tow.
Like with each plate, adjust it to fit your needs. Mine is full forward, like you I occasional tow, but most of the time I'm empty, I get 19 around the city, and 20-23 on the hwy running 60-65 mph.
As most note, the size of plate has no bearing on mpg, only that you will be able to keep it in a top gear longer.
Since your on stock injectors, I doubt you'll see any egt issues what soever. I'd think you would have to pull 10k+ up a long grade before she'd get to hot.
Thats when a valet valve is handy, it cancels out the plate.
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