rebel5422

take out the wire for the light on the fuse it may be messing with the grounding of the switch since it requires power to light but the trans lock up is a ground "loop" or at least that was my understanding we had the same problem with my brothers until we took out the light wire the only reason we got a lighted switch is because they didnt have a regular toggle

hamilton71801

Will a relay prevent this? I have one but am reluctant to put it on because I don't know what wires goes on it. I'll try unhooking the hot and see what happens. Thanks.

hamilton71801

I unhooked the hot and nothing changed. The light on the switch still comes on...don't know how that's happening, but it only lights up now with the engine running. So, last night it dawned on me that the reason my truck was acting goofy was it was going into limp mode but I guess the resistor was keeping it from throwing a CEL. What do I try next???? Pulling the trans relay and jumping them? Can you leave the resitor in while doing this? I want to do it right because I don't want to screw up a 4K trans.

J Double

Why not just use the diagram I posted earlier so you don't screw up your $4k trans? Also, use the jumper. The LEDs I installed are "line-of sight" so there's no way you can forget the L/U switch is activated. If you were to use the lighted toggle, I assume it would be mounted somewhere down on the knee bolster (plastic piece below the steering wheel) which will be easy to forget....unless you plan on keeping your eyes on the knee bolster and not the road.

hamilton71801

I like your set up, I just got to thinking about those leds and thought they might be too bright at night time and blind me. I mounted my switch exactly where you have your leds so it's very visable. I will try the jumper and if that don't work, I'll start over and go with your design, only problem is I'll have an extra big hole in my dash from the toggle switch. Maybe the 3rd time will be the charm. Thanks.

hamilton71801

Oh, and another reason I didn't use your set up was I can't get this forum on my home computer for some reason...dang Alltel wireless, and I had no reference to your post.

J Double

I have a diagram that MIGHT work with the LED toggle, I just can't upload from this computer. I'll try to explain. The 12v that goes to the LEDs in the diagram, simply take those LEDS out and run the 12v to the pin that accepts 12v on your toggle. The switched postion (someties refered to as accessory) of the toggle should go to pin# 86 on the relay. I'm not 100% sure it'll work but it may be worth a try. Again, use the jumper wire in the fuse box for the trans relay.

hamilton71801

Thanks, I'll give it a try. Do I even hook the 12V up to the relay or just run it straight to the toggle?

JPR Ram

In order for a "lock up switch" to work properly, there should NOT be any 12v power in the system. The "lock up switch" just grounds the orange w/ black tracer wire so that the torque converter locks. In other words it's a grounding switch. The only time 12 v should be used is to provide power to a warning light. So when the "lock up switch" is activated (to ground the orange w/ black stripe wire), it will also ground the LED warning light turning it on. But the bottom line is that all the "lock up switch" uses is ground; Never 12 volt.

If I were you, I'd start by hooking just the switch up properly to ground, with out any lights. Use the 33 ohm resister and leave the transmission relay IN. After you've got all of that connected correctly and operating properly, then add an LED by connecting one side to 12v and the other to the output side of the grounding switch (the lock up switch). Of course, if you want the duel LED's you'd have to use a relay system.

hamilton71801

I've hooked it up this way and the light still comes on but only when the truck is running and she will go into limp mode. I'll unhook everything and start over and see what happens. If it still acts goofy I'll try jumping the trans relay. Thanks JPR.

maxwedge

Thanks for the tips about this lock up switch set up.

I used J Double's schematic and wired mine up yesterday but have one nagging problem. I use 2 LEDs, green for normal lock up and red for manual. I have a problem with the green LED. When ever it's in the circuit I get a CEL and 4-6 codes. I can clear all the codes, start the engine and if touch the negative lead of the LED to the lock up solenoid wire the CEL comes on!
I've tested LED it's self and its ok. Other than than circuit is fine.

I wired it just as J Double's schematic using a floor mounted dimmer switch to ground the relay, except I added a 33ohm resistor at pin 30 of the relay and didn't take out the trans control relay under the hood.

J Double

I use the relay jumper wire on mine and have had no problems with the CEL. I like the floor mounted dimmer switch idea too.