I got my head off the 12 valve. Whats the best way to clean the block to check it for flatness. I thought maybe a steel wool pad but that might create too much of a mess?? Maybe fine grit sandpaper with a sanding block?? Watcha think?? Any spcial I need to do before installation of the head??

Anyway to remove carbon deposits on the pistons and the tops of the cylinders??

Thanks,
Chad

 

Do NOT use steel wool. A long time diesel mechanic told me the steel wool creates fine steel powder shavings that act like sand paper on the cyl walls the first time you start it after the prep. He gave me some 3M sanding green sponge. It didn't have any grit on it but it was strong enough to take the gasket material off. It didn't harm the metal at all. I have no identification from the pads. I think they came from an auto body shop supply store? I would go look, but they're about 900 miles from here right now.

brandon.

 

Spray on gasket remover and a sharp scraper is all I ever used.

 

clc900

I think brandon it talking about a pad that we use to clean corrosion off aluminum and steel and the best part is it won't cut into steel. What we use comes in different (I hate to say grits) strengths and it like a real strong scotch brite by 3M I also use it at home to clean gaskets off motor parts, it makes a dust and fiber but it doesn't hurt anything. Great stuff

CRIS

 

yeah I work in a body shop and do some engine stuff on the side. I would deffinatelly say that I would either use the Scotch Brite or the gasket scraper to remove the left over gasket. Like JoeFarmer said that can leave a metal shaving residue behind for the first start up and that is bad. You can choose between 3 different grits (if thats what you want to call them.) I forget exactly how they go but there are 3 different colors and that is what determines the grit. There is green, red, and brown. I use the red just because that is the most common and thats what we use in the shop. Another reason for using that is that my dad borrows it from his work . Thats just my opinion though. Maybe someone else has a different idea (ro can remember all the colors of scotch brite) haha. Just thought I could help.

 

Use a scraper to get the heavy stuff off and then stone the entire surface with a good grade hard stone. The type that you would use in a machine shop. The size that I find best is one inch across both sides and about six inches long. That will give you the best surface. I generally use alcohol on a cloth to final clean it, but any cleaner will do. I also always fill the cylinders with paper towel to keep junk from falling down and to absorb any antifreez or oil that runs down.

Do the same with the head surface.

 

Different surfaces should use different materials. IMHO, Scotch-brite is about as close to a perfect universal finish as you will find, but you need to use different "grits" in different places.

Use a finer scotch-brite on the cylinder bores, just enough to take the edge off the crosshatch. From a distance, it will look mirror-polished, but up close, you will see that the crosshatch is still there. Just cover an old cylinder hone with the SB and use very light pressure-- you're just knocking down the edges of the hatch.

I wouldn't encourage the use of a stone unless is was VERY large to where you didn't have to worry about screwing up the machining. I think it's better to use a large machinist's straightedge (laid flat) and some paper if you want to go that route. If you do this, try to find the latex (I think-- it's rubbery) -backed paper, not the regular kind. It's like a rubber glove with abrasive on one side, and performs MUCH better than other papers I have found. The only place I know of where to get it is Stewart-Macdonald guitar supply. (www.stewmac.com)
The latex-paper excels for wet sanding.

Any strong solvent will work well to degrease and clean the block. Lacquer thinner and MEK work better, but Alcohol is much cheaper and less toxic and less dangerous.

Don't waste time removing the carbon. It will return within a few minutes of run time.

Justin