dsljunkie

Just got my Afc and gov springs (3k) in yesterday ;D ;D ;D,my 370s shold be here monday ;D ;D ;D, and I was looking for a little advice before I dug in to installing. Is ther any special tricks, tips, do's, dont's or anything I should know before I start? Also should I wait to put the springs in when my injectors get here or can I go ahead and put them in today? Any help would be great!<br> Thanks<br> Wheels

berner

Hey Wheels<br>Go ahead and put those springs in anytime. Some guys go through the top by removing the cam plate. I did mine through the side. I read somewhere that someone made a removal tool for the retainers by filing out the notch of a tack-puller (the screwdriver kind). I just used a thin open end wrench. They're not very tight. Make sure to count the clicks and put them back on the same amount. Hardest thing about the whole job was getting that friggin plug back in. :

John_P

dsljunkie:<br><br>&quot;Berner&quot; has already given you some very good advice.<br>I would wait to your 370's come and do it all at once! ;D <br><br>You are going to love it!! Adding the 370's to my 96'<br>was probably one of the best things I did to my engine! <br><br>--------<br>John_P

gitchesum

A 3/4&quot; crowsfoot wrench comes in handy to remove the injector lines. A 3/8 screwdriver with a 3/16 notch cut right in the middle makes for a great tool doing the GSK.<br>I did my springs through the top, used a good magnet and had them in in no time. It's easier for me that way. I can't get my hands in there enough to get it from the side.<br><br>I would practive adjusting the idle, I'd imagine you'll need to adjust it afterwards. Mine dropped from 750 to below 500. It was probably lower but it would die first.<br><br>Good luck<br>

VinDiesel

I would personally recommend always installing one modification at a time- that way you can tell the exact effect it has had. If there are any problems, it is much easier to diagnose.<br><br>I left my lines connected at the pump when I put in my 370s, in retrospect it would have been easier to take them all the way off. You may want to make a small slide hammer style puller for the injectors, it made getting the old ones out so much easier.

Smokee

I agree with the one step at a time approach.<br>I installed my springs through the side, and everything went very easy, EXCEPT putting the D...d plug back in. I removed the solenoid bracket, also, which made things easier. (again, EXCEPT for one of the bolts.)<br><br>For the 370's, I removed the lines completely. You don't want to take a chance on bending one of the lines. Make sure that you have compressed air or a can of that photographer's compresed air to blow the dirt away from around the injectors.<br>Also, be prepared with some anti-seize for the reinstall.<br><br>I used a nut on top of the injector and a pair of vice grips to loosen the injectors. In fact, I could loosen all but one of the injectors simply by wiggling the nut with my fingers.<br><br>The only question that I had was a little confusion with the install kit. It came with two sets of washers and some rubber boots. I was unsure what to do with the rubber boots; I threw them out. Also, the instructions said to install the (perhaps) .025 washers. Since the injectors already had washers, I was unsure whether to REPLACE the washers or put them on in addition to the ones already there...replace them.<br><br>Altogether, the mods will really make you ;D. If you do them one at a time, you will get to ;D ;D<br>george

Push Rod

[quote author=Smokey link=board=7;threadid=11644;start=0#110760 date=1046619782]<br>I agree with the one step at a time approach.<br><br>install kit. It came with two sets of washers and some rubber boots.[/quote]<br><br>I'm going to throw in my vote for one step at a time. If you really want to do the whole thing in a day, at the very least, do one step and take the truck out for whirl, just to ensure there isn't a problem with whats been installed. Doing three or four steps, and then having trouble makes it all that much more difficult to figure out whats went wrong.<br><br>Most 12 valve install kits come with the boots, which need to be tossed away, and the proper washers to use are the thin ones. Replacement is the way to go...<br><br>Rod

nevrenufhp

Then what happens if you use the thick ones? I used the thick ones cause that's what was on the old ones...you know, like-for-like.

VinDiesel

The tips of the injectors are now not quite extended as far into the piston cups as they would be with the thinner washers. The 370s have a little wider, and possibly more course spray pattern. Getting them in a little closer helps counteract negative effects.<br><br>When I changed mine, I had already been clued in by my supplier. I compared the length of a stocker and a new one tip to washer. The length was nearly identical with the thick washer on the stock injector and a thin one on the 370.<br><br>I'd go ahead and change them. My truck is now a bit more cold-blooded until warmed up. My guess is that the thicker washers might make it a little worse.

dsljunkie

Hey guys <br>Thanks for the advice!! I think Ill go ahead and install one my stuff one at a time. Sounds like it may be more trouble but that way I can tell ,what did it, if something goes wrong. <br> What about a screwdriver with a notch cut out? Also I was reading the install directions for the GSK and it said I will need to use verinier calipers to record the distance between the governor stud to the top of the governer spring adjusting nut but it doesnt say anything about approximately how big this distance should be ???, I realize it will probably vary from truck to truck but it would be helpfull to have a starting point . Is there possibly an easier way to do this? I dont exactly have a set of verniers layin around and Berner said I could count the clicks,I am assuming this is what he was talking about [undecided].One more thing, I guess Im probly gonna have to adjust the idle but Im completely clueless on how to do this :-[.<br> Sorry this was so long but I thought I would go ahead and get everthing out of the way. Thanks again everybody for all the help!<br> Wheels

dsljunkie

I forgot to ask about the EGTs with the injectors : .I know theyre gonna run hotter, but how much hotter, and what is safe? <br> O.k I think thats all I need to know (yeah right) for now anyhow.<br> Thanks (once again)<br> Wheels

dodgeman01

<br><br>I put the 4k kit in and went from the side. My measurments were 52 on one end and 65 on the other before I took them off. If you do it right your idle should be the same. too tight then it goes up too loose then it goes down. I did mine and it was right on afterwards. My friend mark did his and it went up becuse it was too tight. AL at Piers also told me that.<br>DM01

dsljunkie

The insructions I got from TST are for going from the top. Is it easier going from the side? If so where can I get some instructions on how to do this? <br> Thanks <br> Wheels

dodgeman01

Find Piers number and they can either talk you throught it or send you the directions. Its not hard just take off the Intake housing and the AFC housing then the fuel shut off senloid and the little lever that attaches it to the inside of the pump to shut off the fuel. then under where the fuel shut off was there is a big nut that is attached to a cap that screws out. once that is off you have to turn the engine tell the spring pack comes to the hole. measure the nut take it off. also count the clicks it comes off. then put your new springs in. replace the nut and turn to the next spring set and do them just the same.<br>Hope that helps <br>DM01

JGK

You can count the clicks on the retainer if you want, but I would highly suggest using the calipers and measure the distance. I measured from the top of the stud to the bottom of the slots in the retainer. An adequate set of calipers with a dial reading to .001 in. are fairly easy to find for $20 to $30. Just make darn sure you're taking your readings in all cases as parallel as possible to the stud (i.e. straight on, not angled).<br><br>Don't be surprised if you find the reading to be different from one side to the other. I did one on Saturday and got .078 on one side and .135 on the other. Just set them to your initial readings (or as close as you can) after you replace the springs. Don't try to second guess if the retainer does not sit as tight on the new springs as it did on the original springs.<br><br>BTW: I've always gone through the side and had no problem. Use a pencil magnet and a dental pick is handy, too. Take your time and have good light.<br><br>You'll like them!<br><br>-Jay<br>