BLUEDEVILTOYOTA

I recently put in a #10 plate and boost elbow. I notice more power around town.

I towed a 7000# load this last weekend, and in the hills my friends Tahoe also pulling 7000# was pulling on me. I could not keep up with him. This sucks. Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Thanks,
Bernie

Edit: see my last post

SHARPMACHINE

This should not be happening.


Do you have gages?

Is he out accelerating or pulling hills better?

How much boost are you getting?

We can help you so that this does not happen again$$$$$$$$$$

BLUEDEVILTOYOTA

I have a trans and pyro gauge. If we both hit the hills at around 60 mph he can hold it. I can for a bit, but then the pyro climbs to 1200 deg and the truck slows. I turn off the OD and I can hold 50 at 1100. He just pulls away.
This happend on Cuesta grade near San Luis Obispo. The previous weekend I towed up 80 to Tahoe. I could only do 50 up some of the climbs. I expected to hardly know the trailer was there.

deezul

I have similar symptoms. Just a thought, would the timing having slipped too low cause this?

P.O.R.

are you running a boost elbow,or have you done anything to raise the boost ?

got...DIESEL?

where did you set the plate at?

SHARPMACHINE

You are in a differant area of the country than me, but you need a boost gage. An oil pressure gage can be used if boost is hard to come by. If you had a 3gsk you could get some more speed with the od turned off. If your gage is pre turbo 1200 is not to hot. Most people say that you can hold 1250 all day without damage and an occasional surge past it is not a problem.

some questions.

Is your filter minder pulling down?
Do you have any extra holes in your air box? (often this can help some)
Has your timming ever been checked? (this can be a big part of the problem)


Don't worry with a little TLC you should outpull most any tahoe!!

BLUEDEVILTOYOTA

1) It is just a boost fitting with a very small hole in it.

2) Bought a new fuel filter last night. Still have to put it in

3) Fuel plate is in the stock location

4) Not sure about the filter minder. I plan on cleaning the filter when I do the fuel filter.

5) Where and what size sould I drill holes? Or should I just go with the Scottie II intake?

6) I'm also going to get the timing checked and set at 16deg

walexa

Get a boost guage, move the plate full forward, get the boost fitting, get the scotty 2, and get the 3kgsk and you should be set. Of course, you can always go much much bigger.

Waylan

BLUEDEVILTOYOTA

Ok some of these may be dumb ?'s, but I'm new to the diesel stuff.
1) When I move the plate full forward are there any other adjustments I need to make? Should I also push the AFC housing full forward.

2) What is wrong with the boost fitting I have now? What should I get if it is not what I need?

3) Scotty 2 I'll get it on order

4) What will the 3kgsk do for me?

Thanks,
Bernie

SHARPMACHINE

You need to get a boost gage. An oil pressure gage will work as a boost gage as well. This will allow you to see how much boost you are getting. I would recommend this before any other modifications.

You will end up wanting a 3gsk regardless, it allows your truck to keep fueling to 3000 rpm. Stock our trucks start to de-fuel at about 2200 rpm.

walexa

1. Yes, move the afc housing full forward too. You can later adjust the afc housing back if you are getting too much smoke before boost.

2. Your stock turbo is wastegated........it either comes with a supply line from the afc housing or the pressure to operate the wastegate comes right off the turbo......not sure which models had what, but the boost fitting you need is adjustable, and is a brass 90 with a ball and spring in it that keeps boost signal from operating your wastegate until you reach a higher boost pressure. You should set it to 35 psi which is max safe boost pressure for your hx35.

3. Good on the scotty 2.

4. The 3kgsk will allow the truck to rev more like a gasser, preventing defuelling at low rpm's.

BLUEDEVILTOYOTA

Thanks guys

Bernie

P.O.R.

when moving the fuel plate make sure you adjust the gov. arm,here is a link with instructions.http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm

BLUEDEVILTOYOTA

Ok well it has been a while since this post. I have added an ajustable boost fitting, boost gauge and a S&B intake. I took it to a shop for the timing and they said they could do it, but when it came down to it they didn't know how to even check it.

So this is what's going on now.
1st 2nd and 3rd gear I only hit around 15-17 pounds of boost at wide open throtle and when it lockes up it will only hit 24-26 pounds.
I get a ton of smoke when I roll into the throtle at lockup, or when I smash on the gas off the line. I'm sick of the lack of power and crappy milege. I'm only getting around 12 tops on the freeway not towing.

When I installed the new boost elbow I found there was a ball bearing in the rubber line near the AFC housing. What is the bearing for and should I still use it with the adjustable fitting?

Does anyone know of a shop in the bay area that can adjust my timeing.

I have a trip in less than 2 weeks that I need to tow. It will be around 900 miles and I don't want to be getting 12 MPG. It was better stock.

Help please.